Greg M

iTrader: (8)

Regarding wheel base, my RC10Worlds handles great on my bumpy track, and even with the rear end shortened up, the wheelbase is still longer on the YZ2. Anyway, something I'm going to try.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Alright so finally the YZ2 DTM is how I want!

I made further changes too Lee's setup as it was not right for my driving style or conditions. I went with the following changes from lee's setup:

- Added 2mm tranny shim mod
- Orange rear springs
- 400 cst up front, 300 cst in rear PT Racing oils
- VRP X pistons, same sizes
- The shim that was labeled to go over the rear-rear hangar I put under like the DTM
- Orange Front springs
- 1mm shim on the rear hub carrier

Buggy was money. Normally we put down about 15 - 16 laps when the track is watered and traction is up. with it being dry I was able to put down a consistent 17 laps, with the big emphasis on consistency! Excited to keep running this vehicle.

zzztech

iTrader: (7)

Did you mean you raised the gearbox for a higher CG?

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Raised for more dog bone plunge.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

article on it:

Team Losi Racing: Raising the Transmission in the TLR22 and 22T

exage94

Hello,
Which YZ2 version would be better for astro turf and carpet, the CA or DTM edition? Obviously the CA edition is especially for carpet, but the DTM is maybe more improved?
Where are the differences between the two kits?

kind regards

Cain

iTrader: (294)

So had another run with the vehicle this past monday.

Left the setup the same and looked at different tire types.

It was interesting to see how tires make so much of a difference on setup. Started first with some black compound hybrids but they not a good choice, the vehicle was loose in the rear and affected lap times a lot. I was hoping these would be a good option since holeshots work well when it packs up and they have a bit more tread so could be better when you get out of the line or if it marbles up some. No go.

Next heat when with blockades in M4 which are great here and groovys up front, this setup actually had some push to it! Managed to set a very fast lap time to get second position I believe for the a main.

I went with rips as I was hoping they would give a bit better front bite versus the push I was seeing. It was better, I had some bobbles that knocked me down and the lead driver was on fire but the push was still there. Ended up squeeking by with a 3rd place finish.

All in all I am thinking that I could go with the first set of front tires which would be M3 holeshots and get back the steering, or, as I would like to use an "edge" style tire, go with the softer springs up front from the Lee setup (the yellows that come stock with the DTM) or raise the rear hub ball stud position up 1mm.

Its still good though, I am quite happy with the vehicle and how planted it is now. I can literally pitch into a corner at high speed and just back off the throttle to rotate it how I want (my driving style, I don't use much brakes). when it was pushing I had to use brakes to get the steering I wanted, which made the next heat of doing a 4wd buggy harder as I was still in 2wd mindset lol.

Kwikvdub

iTrader: (100)

Hello,

Does anyone know if I can put this mount on my YZ2 chassis??

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...300rud/p493841

It's the model before the dirt and carpet edition.

Thanks!

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The CA has the gear diff, wider rear arms, more alum parts and a legitimately lightweight body. I've tried the newer DTM rear end parts on both carpet and astro and both of my YZ2's for those surfaces are basically back to being closer to what comes in the CA box than the DTM. If I needed another roller today, I'd buy the CA, add the machined shock pistons, some RP springs, under battery weights and go.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

Sorry to hijack this thread fellas but I need some closure.

I had a pristine YZ2 4 gear, upgraded to 3 gear and had a ton of option parts and spares for it - but I had to sell it. It would nose dive so badly over every small jump and bump on our Astro track. I had no drag brake on it, and it only used the aluminum front pivot and steering - plus it had the stainless steel C & D hangers and another 30g of weight under the motor and yet she'd still nose dive! I mean ass over tea kettle doing front wheel stands type nose diving. I had other guys drive it and noticed the same, any off throttle and she's going head over heels - how on earth was I supposed to change that? I ran Lee Martin set ups and tried harder springs up front, in back and oils too and more weight in the back and nothing worked - I really, really liked my YZ2 on the bench but at the track - she hated me. Now I see there are servo mount weight kits?! I hope the guy I sold it to had better luck than me.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Which car do you have and how are you configured?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

I'd wager you were donkey kicking of the jumps which can be from too low shock oil, too soft springs for the jumps, or another suspension setting was wrong. The car doesn't inehrintly have that as a handling aspect.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

I tried a lot of oils and spring combinations, however I probably gave up on it too quickly. Went back to my B5M with the same oils and springs and no issues then. No one else had the same problems with their YZ 2 buggies - still nice kits.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Point is that it was not likely the car or it's design. I'm sure if you went back to it, you'd be happy with the car.

The updated DTM kit is pretty much good out of the box.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I can speak from experience in saying that your setup was probably too soft (as the others said). I found that the kit pistons, while correct in their number of holes and size, were not very true. I found that in order to make my car feel right on kit pistons I had to almost double the weight of the shock oils. I believe this is because the pistons are an older mold and just worn down, so you get blow by in the shock. Kyosho 8th scale shocks used to be famous for this. They would wear on the inside of the body and you would just all of a sudden feel like your car was way too soft. In the YZ2's case, the issue is solved with the machined pistons.

Anyway, my reason for pointing this out isn't to bash you and I am glad you feel you got closure. Instead I hope that in the future you work on your car and don't give up on it. No matter what platform. Because no car is perfect and eventually you'll need to be able to react to what's going on.