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Yokomo YZ-2

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Old 11-11-2021, 01:35 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Last edit by: lexusbest
Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!


Features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1
  • Long specification for dirt Main chassis Inheriting the chassis cut of dirt specification, it is longer with the same wheelbase as CAL3.
  • Aluminum front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTM2B F2 body.
  • JConcepts ASTRO High Clearance 7inch Wing.
Features for the lastest specification YZ-2CAL3.1
  • Long specification main chassis for carpets. Long wheelbase that enables even higher speeds.
  • Steel front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTMBL S2 Lightweight body.
  • Z2-CAL2W LMR Wing.
Common features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1 / YZ-2CAL3.1
  • The conventional position and the position of the suspension arm pin 1 mm higher can be selected on the front and back of the front suspension mount.
  • Bulkhead integrated side plate with increased rigidity.
  • The kingpin position has been changed with the new steering hub carrier, the axle position has been lengthened by 1 mm, and a steering stopper has also been added.
  • Battery holder that is easy to adjust according to the height of the battery.
  • Separate the rear mount base and upper arm holder to increase the flex around the rear and improve traction.
  • Z2-018-5 5-hole shock mounting specification Rear shock tower.
  • S4-S1S 3.0mm shaft specification front shock.
  • S4-S1M 3.0mm shaft specification rear short shock.
  • S4-008R5B L5 / LD Rear suspension arm (Φ3.5 pin).
  • Z2-01069 Rear universal shaft (69mm bone).

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
YOKZ2-0023

CAL3 manual
DTM3 manual



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Old 01-22-2016, 07:58 PM
  #1846  
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Need a little help. I looking for a little longer dogbanes for this car. I'm running bmax 2 shafts and in my modified suspension setup I'm running a little short, could use about 3 more mm to make it work. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:37 PM
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For those asking about the aluminum front castor blocks, they were just added at Amain: http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...2-413a/p481803
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkA
For those asking about the aluminum front castor blocks, they were just added at Amain: http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...2-413a/p481803
$41 yikes...... I got my entire car for $300 (new in box roller with body). I just got mine built for a small carpet track. I don't think I will hop it up for some time.....I have driven two other peoples cars and they felt great....
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
$41 yikes......
By comparison, at least this isn't an Xray branded car thread...

If you want a stiffer front block, the graphite ones will do that for $9; if you want them to be more "durable", the stock ones are a part I've seen one YZ-2 break once out of all of them running my area over the past year.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HOTROD716
Need a little help. I looking for a little longer dogbanes for this car. I'm running bmax 2 shafts and in my modified suspension setup I'm running a little short, could use about 3 more mm to make it work. Any suggestions?
The YZ-4 front ones are long, real long; would probably bind the drive cups on up travel but are the only Yoke ones longer than the Bmax2's that I'm aware of.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:42 AM
  #1851  
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disregard
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:16 PM
  #1852  
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I was the guy asking about the aluminum front blocks....Just ordered them the other day from A-main....funny huh? I asked about them and 3 days later they're up!
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:56 PM
  #1853  
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Originally Posted by MarkA
The YZ-4 front ones are long, real long; would probably bind the drive cups on up travel but are the only Yoke ones longer than the Bmax2's that I'm aware of.
I have tried those ones, and yes they are a little too long. I switched the wheel pin side for the rear and the dog bone was binding in the diff cup holder.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:13 PM
  #1854  
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Hey guys,

Finally made the time to paint my wife's Azarashi lid. I'd have used a different color on the front, but it looks pretty nice.










Tha fit is perfect but I will say I feel it is absurdly and unnecessarily too thin on the sides.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:22 AM
  #1855  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
The Blue is 13AWG the Purple stuff is 14AWG.

Just looks thicker in the pics. 14 works perfectly fine for 1/10 but the best is 12-13 and 13 is the perfect happy medium. 10 is too much and likely is adding resistance to the system, but not all that much.
Actually it's the other way around, a cable with a larger cross sectional area have less resistance.


"Resistance in a wire can be defined as

R = ρL / A

where

ρ = resistivity
L = Length
A = cross sectional area

Thicker gauge wires have a larger A, and therefore the resistance of the wire decreases keeping everything else constant."
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:03 AM
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Incubus,

That paint job is incredible!! Working on mine. Thinking yellow/red/Orange in front, checkerboard stripe, fading into metallic purple in the back.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:08 AM
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I was taught (perhaps incorrectly) that thicker wire means larger solder points/joints which nullify the benefit of the thicker wire because solder creates more resistance than the wire itself. Smaller diameter wire may have greater resistance but it is so minimal that in the end, because of the reduction in overall size of the solder joints it means current will flow more freely and result in overall reduced resistance.

Is this incorrect?
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by pete48
Incubus,

That paint job is incredible!! Working on mine. Thinking yellow/red/Orange in front, checkerboard stripe, fading into metallic purple in the back.
Thank you sir! Need to snap pics of it in the sunlight so the candy purple really pops.

For your red I would suggest Spastix Fire Red if you want a really bright red.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
I was taught (perhaps incorrectly) that thicker wire means larger solder points/joints which nullify the benefit of the thicker wire because solder creates more resistance than the wire itself. Smaller diameter wire may have greater resistance but it is so minimal that in the end, because of the reduction in overall size of the solder joints it means current will flow more freely and result in overall reduced resistance.

Is this incorrect?
Since most of the soldering is direct connection with no connectors the larger diameter wire has less resistantance if you soldering is good. Its the more solder points that creates resistance more so than wire diameter.
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Old 01-25-2016, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Hey guys,

Finally made the time to paint my wife's Azarashi lid. I'd have used a different color on the front, but it looks pretty nice.

Tha fit is perfect but I will say I feel it is absurdly and unnecessarily too thin on the sides.
I wish I had the patience (and the talent) to paint bodies like that! Let us know how the body holds up after a few races. I really like the shape of it.

Martin Paradis
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