hacker

iTrader: (141)

I knew it 'could' be done. How, is another question I've been asking myself for months. It wasn't until the recent yz-2 stock pucks request thread had popped up to give me the motivation to figure this out!

Short answer;
B5 ball diff
B5 mip stock pucks
B5 rear hub assembly, up to all the bits that connect to the mip drive shaft.

This is what I needed for 'my' ymax with bmax4 rear arms. I actually have the opposite problem to above poster 'Crawlin', my pucks is only half way in, and half way out, of the outdrives. Putting back the original yz-2 arms will solve that!

The B5 hubs are too wide for the yok arms. Required to take off roughly 2mm, I choose the shave the forward side. Also slight dremmelling required as B5 hub hitting rear arm(see 3rd pic). I've just hacked it with a blade instead, as its 1:39AM and don't wanna wake everyone up!

I personally havnt used pucks before, I got these pucks with my used b5m. And I don't plan to use them unless my consistency is better. However, now you know what to do to achieve stock pucks!

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

I have bought all the parts to do the ymax conversion including the factoryrc kit, my question is i ordered all the parts on petitrc website except tee rear wing, can you use the yz-2 wing or do i have to get the bmax2 wings TI.

Crawlin

iTrader: (22)

Nice hacker! Seems we need to swap arms, haha.

For the hell of it, here it is "ready to race" but not legal weight. Right now the battery is all the way forward(shorty) in the pod. You like those cross-weights/side to side balance? Its as even as I could get with placement, and shock settling can change it anyways



And just for information purposes, I put the two pieces of Mckune Design Shorty Battery weight under the battery in the forward position. So added the 50g. And it looks like the front of the battery compartment is the balance point on the car. It added the 50g but the front/rear balance % stayed the same. I'll be adding two 10g pieces on the servo up front for the start to get to the 1500g. Probably only swing the f/r balance very little

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

u can use it but it widens the mount holes a little and u cant use the one piece shim unless u cut it .....i liked it because it lowered the wing slightly...

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Built my YZ2 over the weekend.

Best build I've done by far! A combination of build instruction details on par with Xray/Losi, plastics quality of Kyosho. Everything is butter smooth. The ball bearing steering system ... blissfully smooth and slop free!

Shocks are super smooth too. Only downside I have for the ENTIRE kit is those pistons. Including machined pistons with the kit would have been the cherry on top of all the icing and cake. Shocks still not quite as butter smooth as the Kyosho velvets but a switch to machined pistons could change that!

Super happy with my purchase. Now looking for a BMax2 so that I can have a YMax rear end to bolt on and also to build my YZ4!

LiL CeeZ

iTrader: (23)

Can't wait for reports on these puck systems and how they ran. Good job guys very interested over here

KrAcOn

iTrader: (6)

MIP14145 is the puc system for the Bmax2. If you are running the Bmax2 rear arms on the YZ2 I would think you could run this kit. vs converting all those B5m parts over.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

The shiny kit fits without issue, I run them in my car.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

Yes I assume you are right!

However i just happened to use what I already had in my 'pit box'.

Crawlin

iTrader: (22)

and if I wanted a puck system that weighed the same as the stock stuff that is what I would have gotten. Since the yokomo ball diff was out of stock, the B5 stuff was what was available at my LHS and its pretty much the same price. This was for a 17.5 car that I wanted to see how light it could get. People were asking and I had the time, money, curiosity to see, haha.

And in all honesty, instead of the shiny puck system, if you already had the yokomo ball diff, you could just pick up the male/female outdrives from the shiny system for $13ea and the custom works blades and have the same setup MIP sells for $90 for $30, just not a shiny dogbone. Don't know what those weigh to be honest or what the benefit of the shiny system is other than just being a puck setup.

if this aluminum 17.5 setup doesn't work, i'll just toss the stock axles back in with the CW blades and be right back at the shiny system.

Its also just a last option since I'm not seeing that the shiny system will be produced any longer??

Crawlin

iTrader: (22)

Initial testing night and the b5m puck kit worked fine. No issues, no popping out. Will be throwing the stock pieces in tomorrow as I have a slight on power issue coming out of corners. Has a tendency to want to keep rotating. Could be my throttle control after being away for so long, could be the tires being brand new, etc..(full of excuses )

Started with Chris Johnson setup. Does feel real "touring car" like on the local clay track, just that one issue on power, corner out

Thought process is that maybe the puck on the outside is creating the bind under compression on the corner exit, the inner wheel diffs out and the car spins. Maybe my understanding is wrong, so just tossing thoughts out

Crawlin

iTrader: (22)

Anyone/Anywhere that has the aluminum rear camber link mount and weighs in stock?

Amain doesn't and no response on when they expect them in
Mibosport doesn't either

Ordered the Rear/Front Steel hinge pin holder but the Rear/Rear was out of stock at Amain as well.

Any other parts houses?

Levelup

I found a rear aluminum upper arm on ebay

rhodopsine

Race and drift Japan looks like they have both in stock.

http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...36_137_181_185
http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...b8bnu4unlm5lu6

Martin Paradis

WillS

iTrader: (32)

I run stock pucks in my car with the stock axles as the weight difference from steel to aluminum wasn't enough to over weigh the longevity of steel.

What I do is push the pins out of the dogbones and drill with a #34 drill bit. Use a drill press to do this step. By using the stock dogbones, its a reduced cost and I have the option of the yz2 or bmax2 dogbone. I use the MIP TLR 17.5 puck outdrives with a couple shims on each side of the diff to center. I have no issues with plunge depth or having to make any other modifications.

Parts List:

Axles
Qty 1 - MIP13131
Qty 1 - MIP13132

Diff
Qty 1 - MIP13149
Qty 1 - MIP13147
Qty 1 - MIP13148
I am not sure if this is the right shim kit I bought: YOKZC-S100S