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Yokomo YZ-2

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Old 11-11-2021, 01:35 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!


Features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1
  • Long specification for dirt Main chassis Inheriting the chassis cut of dirt specification, it is longer with the same wheelbase as CAL3.
  • Aluminum front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTM2B F2 body.
  • JConcepts ASTRO High Clearance 7inch Wing.
Features for the lastest specification YZ-2CAL3.1
  • Long specification main chassis for carpets. Long wheelbase that enables even higher speeds.
  • Steel front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTMBL S2 Lightweight body.
  • Z2-CAL2W LMR Wing.
Common features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1 / YZ-2CAL3.1
  • The conventional position and the position of the suspension arm pin 1 mm higher can be selected on the front and back of the front suspension mount.
  • Bulkhead integrated side plate with increased rigidity.
  • The kingpin position has been changed with the new steering hub carrier, the axle position has been lengthened by 1 mm, and a steering stopper has also been added.
  • Battery holder that is easy to adjust according to the height of the battery.
  • Separate the rear mount base and upper arm holder to increase the flex around the rear and improve traction.
  • Z2-018-5 5-hole shock mounting specification Rear shock tower.
  • S4-S1S 3.0mm shaft specification front shock.
  • S4-S1M 3.0mm shaft specification rear short shock.
  • S4-008R5B L5 / LD Rear suspension arm (Φ3.5 pin).
  • Z2-01069 Rear universal shaft (69mm bone).

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
YOKZ2-0023

CAL3 manual
DTM3 manual



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Old 09-11-2015, 07:00 PM
  #1336  
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In testing we are seeing no need to go to the longer arms. The YZ arms are providing enough traction and stability.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by WillS
In testing we are seeing no need to go to the longer arms. The YZ arms are providing enough traction and stability.
THANK Sir.

Could you post your high med traction setup please sir
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:55 PM
  #1338  
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Try this one to start.

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Old 09-11-2015, 11:25 PM
  #1339  
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The longer arms are great on astroturf, they make car even more stable and less prone to traction rolling. In these conditions, the front gullwing set-up will also be interesting for you.
If traction is not that high, you will be good with the std arms.

In case you want to convert your rear end, it is:

B2-008R and
B2-010RB
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Old 09-12-2015, 05:49 AM
  #1340  
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Thanks

Wills

And

Mes.
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Old 09-12-2015, 08:41 AM
  #1341  
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I just started building my YZ-2 yesterday. I bought the ball diff, but when I assembled the gearbox there is a ton of side to side play in the diff. What shims are you guys using to eliminate this? Also are there any other parts needed when using the ball diff? Also, are the machined pistons a worthwhile upgrade? Trying to just make one more order with A-Main. I am looking forward to getting this on the track next Friday night at LSR.
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:12 AM
  #1342  
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I'm actually running the gear diff in mine at the moment with 2k fluid and am happy so far. Note that I'm on a track that does run slicks.

Avid 1.6x2 fronts, and 1.7x2 rears is what I have in my car. They work great.
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:40 PM
  #1343  
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Originally Posted by afm223
I just started building my YZ-2 yesterday. I bought the ball diff, but when I assembled the gearbox there is a ton of side to side play in the diff. What shims are you guys using to eliminate this? Also are there any other parts needed when using the ball diff? Also, are the machined pistons a worthwhile upgrade? Trying to just make one more order with A-Main. I am looking forward to getting this on the track next Friday night at LSR.
I think it takes .2mm of shims on each side of the ball diff. May want to get .1mm shims to set correctly.

Last edited by jake alton; 09-12-2015 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:53 PM
  #1344  
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Originally Posted by mes
The longer arms are great on astroturf, they make car even more stable and less prone to traction rolling. In these conditions, the front gullwing set-up will also be interesting for you.
If traction is not that high, you will be good with the std arms.

In case you want to convert your rear end, it is:

B2-008R and
B2-010RB
Mes....Are the longer rear arms the B2-008r or the B4-008r? All the set-up sheets I've seen seem to have the arms from the B-Max4 not the 2wd? I have no idea what the differences are, just want to order the correct ones
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Old 09-12-2015, 01:06 PM
  #1345  
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The B4-008r arms are the wider ones. You need the Bmax2 rear driveshafts to make them work. My experience has been that a track has to be at a capital "H" level of high-bite for them to actually be an improvement though - they're not something you need to change just for the sake of change.
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Old 09-12-2015, 01:13 PM
  #1346  
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OK thanks MarkA...Can I use the Bmax2 dogbones (B2-010RB) with the longer A-arms, or do I need to get the entire drive line (Out of Stock at A-main now)?
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Old 09-12-2015, 01:21 PM
  #1347  
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The outer axle should be the same so yes, you could change only the bones. However, if your existing setup has seen any significant track time, especially on high grip, I would recommend getting new BM-010TPC pins/joints at the same time as you change those bones.
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Old 09-12-2015, 02:52 PM
  #1348  
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Originally Posted by jake alton
I think it takes .2mm of shims on each side of the ball diff. May want to get .1mm shims to set correctly.
Thanks, I will order up some .1 shims. They come in a 10 pack so I should be set.
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:13 PM
  #1349  
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perfect, thanks again MarkA....gonna do that then as I run on commercial grade real carpet, which is quite high bite for sure. It's a new build, just want it as an option
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:21 PM
  #1350  
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Originally Posted by afm223
Thanks, I will order up some .1 shims. They come in a 10 pack so I should be set.
You have the part number for the shims
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