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Yokomo YZ-2

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Old 03-25-2015, 06:20 AM
  #826  
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
That ironic cause I wasnt the one machining but an individual who worked as an aerospace machinist for 40 years. He warned me before trying that the steel is hardened too hard and that this would happen.
If it were over harden, it would have been so brittle that it would have chipped heavily when drilling. Still not ruining the bit. A solid lubricant like moly D, a center punched guide and an 118 degree bit could only be eaten up for the above reasons.

Or you purchased a cheap chinese knock off. Let's agree to disagree.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
If it were over harden, it would have been so brittle that it would have chipped heavily when drilling. Still not ruining the bit. A solid lubricant like moly D, a center punched guide and an 118 degree bit could only be eaten up for the above reasons.

Or you purchased a cheap chinese knock off. Let's agree to disagree.
You can do the research... these are the bits we used (and yes we get them discounted). milling bit. Used on a bridgeport end mill.

I know you own a b5, take your stock outdrives and run a file over them, If you even own a yok, take a file and run it over their outdrives, you will immediately see the difference if you know what your looking for.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I hear the AE diff is plug and play... if you look at the outdrives for both AE and Yok, they look identical.

-Tavares
If you don't mind using a ton of shims, the AE diff will fit; I remember that from my B-Max2 days.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:41 PM
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FWIW - that tool is not made to cut steel in a milling machine, it's made for cutting composite material like fiberglass, carbon, plastic, etc......

I may not be a 40year aerospace machinist, but I'm a toolmaker by trade, have spent 14 years as a machine tool applications engineer, and currently am a Metalworking Specialist for MSC (the company who's page was linked to)

A $15 generic carbide endmill will cut those outdrives just fine. They are between 40-50 Rockwell at the hardest. Any harder and they would shatter.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
FWIW - that tool is not made to cut steel in a milling machine, it's made for cutting composite material like fiberglass, carbon, plastic, etc......

I may not be a 40year aerospace machinist, but I'm a toolmaker by trade, have spent 14 years as a machine tool applications engineer, and currently am a Metalworking Specialist for MSC (the company who's page was linked to)

A $15 generic carbide endmill will cut those outdrives just fine. They are between 40-50 Rockwell at the hardest. Any harder and they would shatter.
Well do you have one you would recommend, I am not seeing any designed for plunge cutting that are carbide in 1/8.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:51 PM
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Ok, I've had a few days to slowly build my yok. As you all have been staying the parts are actually high quality even the steel turnbuckles I was worried about. I personally don't like the gear diff though. It had no slop and feels smooth but I just prefer a ball diff to me it's easier to tune and every set-up sheet that is similar to my track conditions use a ball diff. I understand parts are a prob for everyone right now but nobody has yok parts. Going to California this weekend and hobby stores out there are out.
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kbish76 View Post
Ok, I've had a few days to slowly build my yok. As you all have been staying the parts are actually high quality even the steel turnbuckles I was worried about. I personally don't like the gear diff though. It had no slop and feels smooth but I just prefer a ball diff to me it's easier to tune and every set-up sheet that is similar to my track conditions use a ball diff. I understand parts are a prob for everyone right now but nobody has yok parts. Going to California this weekend and hobby stores out there are out.
The only place I know of that carries parts is A-main. Is there another store we don't know about?
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:25 AM
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A Main is the US importer and the only source.

The other option is Yokomo Europe, but this is not as bad as it sounds. If you email them with what you want to order they will recalculate the price (due to the European tax system) and the price will be comperable to AMain. With shipping it will be a little more than AMain (10-15%) but the yokomo parts are cheap as it is.

Website:
http://www.mibosport.com/
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:28 AM
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also, when I needed to get a ball diff I ended up buying the parts (outdrives, t-nut, gear, screw, spring, and bearing) and then bought a BFast kit for the diff rings, balls, and thrust washers.
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Well do you have one you would recommend, I am not seeing any designed for plunge cutting that are carbide in 1/8.
You need to drill it first, then change to and endmill

Drill - http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06825905

Endmill - http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/07765522
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:16 AM
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Looking at Lee Martin setup, he swaps the rear arms on the YZ2 and bmax4. What does this do for for both cars?
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
You need to drill it first, then change to and endmill

Drill - http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06825905

Endmill - http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/07765522
That is interesting. This is the first time I have ever heard of drilling first. Heck, the military didn't even train to drill first on plunge cutting. Reason it has to be plunge cut on the mill is due to the fact your starting the cut nearly on the edge of the ring groove and a regular drill bit will walk all over the place.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:32 AM
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Absolute Hobbyz is starting to carry the kits, i'm not sure on an ETA for parts though.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:34 AM
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This was posted a little while ago about the Bmax4 III arms on the YZ2. No idea what the YZ-2 arms do to the B-Max4 III.

Originally Posted by WillS View Post
yes that would be correct. I have been testing my car with the setup since the amain.com outback shootout. For me it helped with stability of the car, it also helps with on power steering as it will make the rear a little wider than the front.

REAR TRACK-WIDTH
Wider
• Increases rear grip at corner entry
• Increases high-speed on-throttle steering
• Use to avoid traction rolling
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:55 PM
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I am really considering giving this car a shot. Currently Im running a Kyosho RB6. Has anyone come from an RB6 and could give me some insight on the feel of this car?
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