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Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:20 AM
  #4471  
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
I'm going to guess they have a top shaft for the slipper, and a top shaft for the direct drive?

A buddy of mine is getting his this week. I'm excited to see how it is compared to my DTM2. The shorter/stiffer chassis has me nervous, as my driving style may not appreciate that. I would love to get a DTM3 tower and try that though, for some extra droop.
I'd not worry about chassis stiffness. With the shorter chassis, new shock package and battery mount, it will generate a lot of grip. My CAL3 was super planted with the kit set-up from the get go, and I'd be surprised if they did not manage as well with the dirt car. I sent arn0 a few lines to complement the built report, and they should be online soon.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:27 AM
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The DTM3 is a nice piece of a kit.
The Cal3 therefore is a shame. The Ca2 was a way better deal for the money.
Yokomo did nothing good for the high grip community. Did you see, that not a single piece of alloy parts ate included, neither
are the any graphit goodies in it.
Even the rear arms are S3, so the car is very narrow in the back. Way to much grip, so they decided to take the grip away,
look at the strange setup fot the rear suspension.
My S4 arms car is 4mm! wider in the rear for onpower steering, which lacks the Yz2 platform anyway.

And for all who wants to use the -3mm rearshock plate, you do not need the truck shock bodies.
You can still use your original shock bodies, with only 3mm spacer inside.

And for the steering rack. If you have the Worlds alloy steering or the Dtm2 alloy steering, its the same as the Truck plastic one.

Sorry but Yokomo has not done sny favour for them with the new kit.
Expensive and no real innovation or expensive parts, like the Worlds Edition, in it.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mes View Post
I think the ballcups on the ballcups are different. The shock nuts are plastic and included on the rear arm sprue.
yeah that was a typo, corrected it.

Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
...The Cal3 therefore is a shame. The Ca2 was a way better deal for the money.
Yokomo did nothing good for the high grip community. Did you see, that not a single piece of alloy parts ate included, neither
are the any graphit goodies in it.


The new parts, are they different material wise than the plain plastic ones? I was thinking they are harder than the plain plastic but not quite as stiff as the graphite ones? maybe better durability that way?

As for the alloy parts not being included, one thing posted up on facebook was I guess they did this due to some complaints on breakage issues, so this may give more flex / less breakage. I don't recall much breakage issues personally on my YZ2 lineup of cars, but maybe others were pushing stuff harder than I tend to do.

Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
Even the rear arms are S3, so the car is very narrow in the back. Way to much grip, so they decided to take the grip away,
look at the strange setup fot the rear suspension.
My S4 arms car is 4mm! wider in the rear for onpower steering, which lacks the Yz2 platform anyway.
I am curious on how the shorter a-arms will perform, will be interesting to see. Do you plan to do any back and forth testing, if even possible, of long S4 arms versus the new shorter ones?

Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
And for all who wants to use the -3mm rearshock plate, you do not need the truck shock bodies.
You can still use your original shock bodies, with only 3mm spacer inside.
Do you run into any issues with the shock body being longer than the truck fronts?

Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
And for the steering rack. If you have the Worlds alloy steering or the Dtm2 alloy steering, its the same as the Truck plastic one.
To confirm, you are saying the center link portion from this is the same as the the plastic center link (Z2-200-3) for the CAL3/DTM3?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...201dsb/p763180
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:36 AM
  #4474  
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Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
The DTM3 is a nice piece of a kit.
The Cal3 therefore is a shame. The Ca2 was a way better deal for the money.
Yokomo did nothing good for the high grip community. Did you see, that not a single piece of alloy parts ate included, neither
are the any graphit goodies in it.
Even the rear arms are S3, so the car is very narrow in the back. Way to much grip, so they decided to take the grip away,
look at the strange setup fot the rear suspension.
My S4 arms car is 4mm! wider in the rear for onpower steering, which lacks the Yz2 platform anyway.

And for all who wants to use the -3mm rearshock plate, you do not need the truck shock bodies.
You can still use your original shock bodies, with only 3mm spacer inside.

And for the steering rack. If you have the Worlds alloy steering or the Dtm2 alloy steering, its the same as the Truck plastic one.

Sorry but Yokomo has not done sny favour for them with the new kit.
Expensive and no real innovation or expensive parts, like the Worlds Edition, in it.
Did you drive the CAL3? Obviously not.
FYI the inboard steering set-up is completely different. I don't think you can swap those items.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mes View Post
Did you drive the CAL3? Obviously not.
FYI the inboard steering set-up is completely different. I don't think you can swap those items.
When it gets here I have a YZ2T I can do some comparison on at least for the steering link part since that is in question. In general how the vehicles performs is going to be a big factor relative to perceived value based on what is or isn't in the kit. Folks love bling,and when you are at the top of the price point, lots of them think more bling the better, regardless of how it actually affects performance.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:09 PM
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No, I did not mean comparing the new Ca3 steering and Worlds one,
I mean the Plastic +2mm is the same as the alloy Worlds, alloy Dtm2 one.

No problems running the longer shock bodies on the shorter stays.
You still have 1-2mm uptravel, when chassis on the ground.

When all plastic works better, why I am around 1sec. faster with graphite plastic and almost everything in aluminium.
My goal is getting a setup that the car reacts always the same on every part of the track.
All plastic makes the car a little easier to drive, but very unpredictable, and I cant stand this.

I am not a real racer, but I could match up the speed of Bruno Coelho at our home track.
He and all the other Xray racers had a hard time at our fast and bumpy Astro track.


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Old 08-14-2019, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post
No, I did not mean comparing the new Ca3 steering and Worlds one,
I mean the Plastic +2mm is the same as the alloy Worlds, alloy Dtm2 one.

No problems running the longer shock bodies on the shorter stays.
You still have 1-2mm uptravel, when chassis on the ground.

When all plastic works better, why I am around 1sec. faster with graphite plastic and almost everything in aluminium.
My goal is getting a setup that the car reacts always the same on every part of the track.
All plastic makes the car a little easier to drive, but very unpredictable, and I cant stand this.

I am not a real racer, but I could match up the speed of Bruno Coelho at our home track.
He and all the other Xray racers had a hard time at our fast and bumpy Astro track.


got a setup you can share? we run on bumpy astro here.

Personally, I prefer aluminmum for the inner ball stud mounts but that may just be my hang up.

Looks likemy CAL3 will be here today.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:34 AM
  #4478  
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Yay, the interweb swallowed my reply once more...
Short version:
- aluminium and graphite plastics can be valuable set-up options, but can make your car slower on certain tracks (in my experience this was the case on smooth Astro and indoor carpet)
- the CAL2 was insanely well equipped, which makes seem the CAL3 a worse package than it actually is (coated shocks, machined internals, adjustability, steel bulkhead...)
- world-class drivers not outperforming local heros speaks volumes of the difficulty of the track in question
- my P2K is finished
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
got a setup you can share? we run on bumpy astro here.

Personally, I prefer aluminmum for the inner ball stud mounts but that may just be my hang up.

Looks likemy CAL3 will be here today.

What tires are you using?
This is the most important factor for the setup.
At our track Schuey Cactus are the best, long lasting, do not tend to grip roll, best handling, wear and grip.
Schuey Mini Pin best grip but difficult to drive
Schuey Dart good grip, but after 3-5 batts done.
Schuey Mini Spike less side grip, also short life span
JC Swaggers, Lockness the best rain tire on our astro

my set up is for Cactus and Mini Darts


you can also use RP orange for more rear grip.
Body is the best one JC F2, front wing,and for tighter tracks use the steel bulkhead.
For open fast tracks, longer bends use the alloy bulkhead with 11gr. weight.

Last edited by smrcboy; 08-14-2019 at 01:43 PM. Reason: forgotten
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Old 08-15-2019, 02:06 AM
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So, you are running the DTM, not the CAL on there?
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Old 08-15-2019, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by smrcboy View Post



What tires are you using?
This is the most important factor for the setup.
At our track Schuey Cactus are the best, long lasting, do not tend to grip roll, best handling, wear and grip.
Schuey Mini Pin best grip but difficult to drive
Schuey Dart good grip, but after 3-5 batts done.
Schuey Mini Spike less side grip, also short life span
JC Swaggers, Lockness the best rain tire on our astro

my set up is for Cactus and Mini Darts


you can also use RP orange for more rear grip.
Body is the best one JC F2, front wing,and for tighter tracks use the steel bulkhead.
For open fast tracks, longer bends use the alloy bulkhead with 11gr. weight.
A lot of the guys at my track cut the rib off the front of the Schumacher cut staggers. Are you guys doing the same?
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:22 AM
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here for tires it can bounce back and forth between cactus and mini darts in yellow compound for our turf. I prefer the mini darts personally as they last awhile and seem a bit more consistent since we run into the night when it starts to cool off, offer better grip.

Lockness can work here too, but our astro has gotten really "packed' lately for lack of a better term. so at times it feels like the pins are not driving into the turf like they were before. I'd be curious if nessi's would be better.


CAL3 is here, and of course injured my pointer finger before I could get into working on it go figure lol. so its been doing a good job of the box starting at me. Lots of building this weekend going on, CAL3, LC12B1, CAL2s for comparsion, YZ2T and YZ4SF setup changes, and then some 1/8 scale JQ stuff to round it out. lol
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:21 AM
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yes you are right, cactus are only good on sunny days.
for any other condition mini darts are the better option.
are there any good astro tires from proline, like the prism?
wevuse them on trucks, and these are way the best ones.





dont know how to name this car. ca dtm? its my yz2 for astro.
we are running the -3mm shock stands for the complete season, as we make these for ourselves.
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:42 AM
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its the DTM Worlds edition with some upgrades if i recall correctly. I proably would have saved the chassis and got another regular to run on it lol.

for guys runing proline the pyramids seem to be popular.

Last edited by Cain; 08-15-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:29 PM
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On our track, Darts are the fastest (for a few batteries) and you can get away with Cactus. Pyramids will last long but are quite slow compared to the Schumacher tires. My personal favorite are the Nessis, which are very close to the Darts but last much longer. I will have to give the Twin pins a try, but at the moment I don't think it's going to get better than the Nessis. Great tire all in all!
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