485LikesYokomo YZ-2
11-11-2021, 01:35 AM - Wikipost
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07-27-2017, 09:15 PM
#3061
The track I posted? There's holes in there that are big enough to make a Truggy disappear. That video was taken right after the track being fixed. It breaks up really bad, but that's fun for 8th scale.
Here's the only pic I have on me right now of the actual 10th scale track. This is just what we race on up here.
And no one, puts calcium in their tracks. CRC up in Rome NY (5 hours away) was the last track that used to do it and they stopped after last year. It destroys your cars. I think it's just the climate / dirt.
What it comes down to is this area is not a 10th scale area. The guys who run 10th scale all year round make up maybe 20% of the racers. We're a very big electric 8th scale area (and nitro for that matter). Around October all the 8th scale guys start shifting to indoor 10th scale.
Here's the only pic I have on me right now of the actual 10th scale track. This is just what we race on up here.
And no one, puts calcium in their tracks. CRC up in Rome NY (5 hours away) was the last track that used to do it and they stopped after last year. It destroys your cars. I think it's just the climate / dirt.
What it comes down to is this area is not a 10th scale area. The guys who run 10th scale all year round make up maybe 20% of the racers. We're a very big electric 8th scale area (and nitro for that matter). Around October all the 8th scale guys start shifting to indoor 10th scale.
The other alternative to calcium is literally sugar water to assist the track in maintaining it's complexion and I know years ago tracks here mixed some sort of starch in their sugar water because it helped things stay tacky for a bit longer, but I have no idea what type of starch they used.
07-28-2017, 07:00 AM
#3062
That pic shows better detail and I see what you're saying and I have no idea what calcium can do to cars because here we have one of the largest 8th scale tracks in the country and they use calcium, as does springs. While it can cause parts to rust, it's the responsibility of the racers to clean and maintain their gear. All you need to do is spray either WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on metal parts to clean and protect them and you wont have any issues. We use Simple green to clean our cars and that tends to be corrosive on metal but since we follow that up with proper cleaning and maintenance, all of our cars remain pristine.
The other alternative to calcium is literally sugar water to assist the track in maintaining it's complexion and I know years ago tracks here mixed some sort of starch in their sugar water because it helped things stay tacky for a bit longer, but I have no idea what type of starch they used.
The other alternative to calcium is literally sugar water to assist the track in maintaining it's complexion and I know years ago tracks here mixed some sort of starch in their sugar water because it helped things stay tacky for a bit longer, but I have no idea what type of starch they used.
07-28-2017, 07:32 AM
#3063
Well then my firend I guess you're stuck.
However, I will point out that just because you treat a track to accommodate all scales, it doesn't mean you're catering to any one. 8th scale vehicles are such that treated or not, they WILL impose their will as they so please and they will tear up tracks almost as much as they do non-treated tracks. It may take a bit longer to do (maybe 3 heats) and the chaos they inflict may be not be to such a great degree, but trust me when I tell you, it wont be much different than what you guys already have.
However, I will point out that just because you treat a track to accommodate all scales, it doesn't mean you're catering to any one. 8th scale vehicles are such that treated or not, they WILL impose their will as they so please and they will tear up tracks almost as much as they do non-treated tracks. It may take a bit longer to do (maybe 3 heats) and the chaos they inflict may be not be to such a great degree, but trust me when I tell you, it wont be much different than what you guys already have.
07-28-2017, 07:35 AM
#3064
Hi there,
I just got a DTM and was wondering if anybody could recommned an aluminium servo horn or servo saver. I don't like the stock composite ones.
I am going to copy Lee M's winning setup as my local track is similar to that italian one (half the size though). However, are there any optional parts i should be getting? Only functinal ones, I dont care about aesthetic as the buggy is really good looking as it is.
Thank you 👍
I just got a DTM and was wondering if anybody could recommned an aluminium servo horn or servo saver. I don't like the stock composite ones.
I am going to copy Lee M's winning setup as my local track is similar to that italian one (half the size though). However, are there any optional parts i should be getting? Only functinal ones, I dont care about aesthetic as the buggy is really good looking as it is.
Thank you 👍
I think it will work out and offers a 20mm option too all on one horn.
As for hopups, I am really liking the Jconcepts Shapeways Elephant trunk or whatever they call it. Offers good flex.
07-29-2017, 09:46 AM
#3065
Does anyone have a list of parts needed to upgrade a YZ-2 DT to the DTM? If so I would appreciate it.
07-31-2017, 09:34 PM
#3066
How's the yz2 out of the box on carpet. Finally have a carpet track coming in where I am. Wondering if I should convert my rb6.6 to gear diff and push the battery forward or just pick up a used CA. Any thoughts on how it is out of the box or what needs to be done to the buggy? Thx much
08-01-2017, 06:33 AM
#3067
Will look into posting some specific setup info today on my "black dirt" testing with the DTM still using the 3 gear laydown transmission.
I think I am at a point where the vehicles feels very consistent, enough that any issues with rear traction I am almost willing to say are tire selection based or only need a minor setup tweak. I may try a few more things but it would be more so to get the range of tires from having to be very specific to having other options that work for other cars to be "good" if that makes sense.
At this time though, biggest changes I made were:
- Rear toe
- height of ball stud on rear brace
- Rear link length
- Rear Link position (forward versus rearward)
- Weight
This is all on a track where when wet, a step pin tire would be ideal. I am also running a front wing for more on power steering too.
The driving style I am seeing the buggy likes with my changes are to allow offpower rotation or lower throttle onpower rotation then punch it (using throttle control) after the turn has been completed. The steering is such that is very fast but in general controllable. And the rear is very planted coming into a high speed turn where you let of slightly at the end most likely due to the downforce of the rear wing.
The only parts right now where it gets squirelly are if I end up out of the line or try to punch it too soon on a hairpin turn. But even then, still feels like tire selection at some point.
I am also using a very high torque motor so with something more standard maybe what I am seeing for when the rear breaks free is a non-issue.
Also, the Ruddog servo horn I am liking a lot in the shorter position. Very nice upgrade.
Anyone know if the Mckune Tranny shims will work on the YZ2 DTMs? If so, and you have some to sell, message me.
I think I am at a point where the vehicles feels very consistent, enough that any issues with rear traction I am almost willing to say are tire selection based or only need a minor setup tweak. I may try a few more things but it would be more so to get the range of tires from having to be very specific to having other options that work for other cars to be "good" if that makes sense.
At this time though, biggest changes I made were:
- Rear toe
- height of ball stud on rear brace
- Rear link length
- Rear Link position (forward versus rearward)
- Weight
This is all on a track where when wet, a step pin tire would be ideal. I am also running a front wing for more on power steering too.
The driving style I am seeing the buggy likes with my changes are to allow offpower rotation or lower throttle onpower rotation then punch it (using throttle control) after the turn has been completed. The steering is such that is very fast but in general controllable. And the rear is very planted coming into a high speed turn where you let of slightly at the end most likely due to the downforce of the rear wing.
The only parts right now where it gets squirelly are if I end up out of the line or try to punch it too soon on a hairpin turn. But even then, still feels like tire selection at some point.
I am also using a very high torque motor so with something more standard maybe what I am seeing for when the rear breaks free is a non-issue.
Also, the Ruddog servo horn I am liking a lot in the shorter position. Very nice upgrade.
Anyone know if the Mckune Tranny shims will work on the YZ2 DTMs? If so, and you have some to sell, message me.
Last edited by Cain; 08-01-2017 at 01:27 PM.
08-01-2017, 05:57 PM
#3068
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
CA on Carpet
How's the yz2 out of the box on carpet. Finally have a carpet track coming in where I am. Wondering if I should convert my rb6.6 to gear diff and push the battery forward or just pick up a used CA. Any thoughts on how it is out of the box or what needs to be done to the buggy? Thx much
08-01-2017, 07:53 PM
#3069
Going back a few pages to the ST discussion, these (see pic) packaged conversions arrived at my local track/shop yesterday. Part# should be visible on that pic so yours can order them as well if you are interested or you can contact the place linked to and they can get you that info.
08-02-2017, 12:43 AM
#3070
Thx - what changed did you make to kit and what impact did they have? Good news
08-02-2017, 10:08 AM
#3072
08-02-2017, 04:50 PM
#3074
MLRC www.yokomo.se