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Yokomo YZ-2

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Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
YOKZ2-0023

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Old 07-17-2017, 03:06 PM
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Laydown tranny is where it's at, period.

Ge the SS RF & RR hangers, add the DEX410 side weights to the very rear of the sides of the chassis side plates, set your battery all the way rearward and then be sure to place a strip of duct tape starting from your right temple down under your chin and up to the left temple to keep your jaw from hitting the floor because you will know performance and levels of grip like you've never seen before.

The side weights provide that little bit of roll to help the outside tire dig in just that wee bit more to afford you more speed through the turns. I get so much grip on some tracks I have to watch it or I'll get traction roll on high speed sweepers.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Laydown tranny is where it's at, period.

Ge the SS RF & RR hangers, add the DEX410 side weights to the very rear of the sides of the chassis side plates, set your battery all the way rearward and then be sure to place a strip of duct tape starting from your right temple down under your chin and up to the left temple to keep your jaw from hitting the floor because you will know performance and levels of grip like you've never seen before.

The side weights provide that little bit of roll to help the outside tire dig in just that wee bit more to afford you more speed through the turns. I get so much grip on some tracks I have to watch it or I'll get traction roll on high speed sweepers.
Speaking of which - I have a set of SS front and rear suspension hangers in basically brand new shape (one night of racing on them)- if anyone wants to trade for a set of new/used aluminum ones send me a PM, and we can make that happen.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:50 PM
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I also have two full sets of the SMC weights if anybody is keen to pick them up.
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Speaking of which - I have a set of SS front and rear suspension hangers in basically brand new shape (one night of racing on them)- if anyone wants to trade for a set of new/used aluminum ones send me a PM, and we can make that happen.
pm sent

Originally Posted by OriginalDonk View Post
I also have two full sets of the SMC weights if anybody is keen to pick them up.
pm sent

Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Laydown tranny is where it's at, period.

Ge the SS RF & RR hangers, add the DEX410 side weights to the very rear of the sides of the chassis side plates, set your battery all the way rearward and then be sure to place a strip of duct tape starting from your right temple down under your chin and up to the left temple to keep your jaw from hitting the floor because you will know performance and levels of grip like you've never seen before.

The side weights provide that little bit of roll to help the outside tire dig in just that wee bit more to afford you more speed through the turns. I get so much grip on some tracks I have to watch it or I'll get traction roll on high speed sweepers.
got pics of this and is the weight set in question?

BALANCING WEIGHT SET (DEX410) from Team Durango, TD220001


Here is a question, so does the exotek RF hanger work on the DTMs? Like the weight of that at 24g on its own.


So had another race session, I was going to change over the rear inserts over to a lower toe setting but as luck would have it, I forgot the parts

so I ran with my old setup and played with tire selection. Personally I think I prefer a treaded tire on the front like a holeshot. Ribbed tires like Carvers felt ok, but then woudl hook at times, holeshots felt good with more consistent steering. I wonder if Jconcepts makes something similar in a 2.2 tire?

I tried Jconcepts green Hybrids on the rear as the tread looks similar to a blockade but with a more square pin. I did have open cell foams for our conditions but I may go with some closed cell on another set. they felt good, just a hair looser than proline M4 blockades with closed cell inserts.

The biggest issue I have still is getting a better consisten rear traction. If I can get that happening, i think the car will be golden. I really like its durability as well as parts quality and the guy who took the win is running a Losi 22 v4.0 which from what he said is a laydown car and his looked pretty planted.
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:54 AM
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The exotek RF hanger will work on a DTM, but I could NOT get it to fit with the CA weight. It's one or the other. I chose the CA weight.
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Old 07-18-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BK24 View Post
The exotek RF hanger will work on a DTM, but I could NOT get it to fit with the CA weight. It's one or the other. I chose the CA weight.
any reason on that? Right now I got about 25 grams in front of the stock RF hanger, and I have 20g on the back basically where you would do the drilled yokomo weights.
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
any reason on that? Right now I got about 25 grams in front of the stock RF hanger, and I have 20g on the back basically where you would do the drilled yokomo weights.
Cain - I sent you a PM back on the SS hangers. As for you low bite guys. Lee Martins DTM is rolling at the Euro's event this week on low bite and I bet he'll post his set-up in near future for you guys to chew on. Pretty sure he is on open cell stuff from the pictures I've seen.
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:36 PM
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I should have taken a picture when I tried, but sadly, did not. The chassis has the triangular recesses that the CA weight fits into. The exotek hanger is a fair amount wider that the SS hanger. The CA weight just won't fit with the exotek hanger. The exotek fits fine without the CA weight. The pic shows the difference in width.
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo YZ-2-2017-07-18-16.34.47.jpg  
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Cain - I sent you a PM back on the SS hangers. As for you low bite guys. Lee Martins DTM is rolling at the Euro's event this week on low bite and I bet he'll post his set-up in near future for you guys to chew on. Pretty sure he is on open cell stuff from the pictures I've seen.
Looking forward to seeing the setup. Right now I am tempted to do 3 hole here. At least on my D413 I am loving 3 hole pistons versus 2 hole. just very plush.

ah okay on the exotek. Hmm, wanna sell that exotek

Seen a discussion on the shims under the RF and RR hangars. Anyone got a laymens breakdown of what this does? example:

- Shims removed from under block: More rear grip

etc

Here is current setup:

Okay this is what I got going on right now, basically took some tips from some of the YZ2 DT setups I had been seeing, please assume all DTM parts and stock setup locations unless otherwise noted:

FRONT
- Yellow Spring
- 400cst PT Racing Oil
- 2 x 1.6mm piston
- 1.0mm x 1 internal limiter
- Steering Rack 0mm top 2mm below
- 0mm shim front shock tower mount
- Shock on middle of tower
- shock on middle of arm

REAR
- Green spring
- 300cst PT Racing Oil
- 2 x 1.7mm piston
- 1.0mm x 1 internal limiter
- 3.5 Toe
- RF Down for zero degree anti squat (daughter using 1 degree as I lost a pill, seems to work fine too)
- 3mm shim on rear tower
- Shocks on rear of tower
- Upper shock position in 2 positions from outer most hole on tower
- shock on outer position on arm

GENERAL
- Battery to the rear
- Shapeways JConcepts waterfall Or cut the stock one for more flex
- 25 grams on rear of vehicle like those add on weights you can get from yokomo. I rigged up some braces to hold the weights on in addition to the sticky tape
- 20 grams under they tranny

Last edited by Cain; 07-18-2017 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:42 AM
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Lee Martin and Yokomo YZ2 - 2017 2wd Euro Champs

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Old 07-19-2017, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Seen a discussion on the shims under the RF and RR hangars. Anyone got a laymens breakdown of what this does? example:

- Shims removed from under block: More rear grip
I discussed it with a few of my friends who are not only uber talented, but are chassis gurus and engineers

Removing the shims lowers the inner hinge pin, which will create more chassis roll (at the rear). This is typically done to generate more rear grip in corners. This also causes more mechanical bind in the outdrive, which in theory means more forward grip. TLR guys did this to their 22's by raising the trans 2mm instead of lowering the C and D blocks.

leaving the shims in (1mm RF, 1mm 1RR) is the default setting that is used on higher grip

Adding shims (2mm RF, 2mm RR) will take away roll and keep the car flatter. This is typically only used on very high bite.


I raised the question on the facebook group before I properly researched it, hoping that someone else already had done it (yeah, I know...lazy ). When I asked, I hadn't even realized there was a spot for it on the setup sheet. I had just blindly built the car with it back in December, ran it kit setup 2 times, then it sat until a few weeks ago when I converted my CA to a DTM.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:58 AM
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NICE! Looking forward to seeing the setup!

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
..
I raised the question on the facebook group before I properly researched it, hoping that someone else already had done it (yeah, I know...lazy ). When I asked, I hadn't even realized there was a spot for it on the setup sheet. I had just blindly built the car with it back in December, ran it kit setup 2 times, then it sat until a few weeks ago when I converted my CA to a DTM.
Lol that is where I saw it, i just wasn't following the discussion that well.

So when you do the removal of the shims, do you just literally remove the shims, or should you reposition the shim for proper spacing (example, you put the shim on the top of the hangar now) like the options the manual setup sheet shows?

from what I recall of the setup sheet, it would be nice if that chart in the manual describing the pill settings was on the sheet. Maybe in a future update.

Some of the settings on the setup sheet to me at least I feel like I need just a hint of a guide to better understand what is being talked about for that section.
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
NICE! Looking forward to seeing the setup!



Lol that is where I saw it, i just wasn't following the discussion that well.

So when you do the removal of the shims, do you just literally remove the shims, or should you reposition the shim for proper spacing (example, you put the shim on the top of the hangar now) like the options the manual setup sheet shows?

from what I recall of the setup sheet, it would be nice if that chart in the manual describing the pill settings was on the sheet. Maybe in a future update.

Some of the settings on the setup sheet to me at least I feel like I need just a hint of a guide to better understand what is being talked about for that section.
You remove the RF and place the RR on the top.
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:56 PM
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Are the f/r camber blocks needed for this car or just extra assurance? Been driving kyosho 1/10 for the past 10yrs looking to get a yz2dtm
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Old 07-20-2017, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Are the f/r camber blocks needed for this car or just extra assurance? Been driving kyosho 1/10 for the past 10yrs looking to get a yz2dtm
Only if your running on Carpet. On dirt, stick with the composite units. They're plenty tough.
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