Socket

iTrader: (61)

Upper right hand corner, there is a "search this thread" button. A few pages back someone broke down the differences in the kits. Basically, the CE and the DE have a different chassis from your car.

rhodopsine

Yes you can, and no you don't have to drill holes to fit the 3 gears carpet transmission. It's pretty much a direct fit. Same waterfall, screws right in.

Martin Paradis

Fundukian

iTrader: (70)

thanks guys, I guess I will just buy the 3 gear conversion when they are back in stock, only $30. other than that it sounds like the rear arm are just 1mm wider and I can work with that later

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Anyone here driven both and care to share their differences on indoor clay? Thx

steam

iTrader: (10)

Anyone know what thrust bearing replacement I can use for the diff. I thought it might be Kyosho as I saw posted somewhere but the inner diameter is too small, OD was good though. So maybe AE or TLR, anyone know?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Look in the manual and then order them either from Avid or Boca Bearing as they tend to have most RC Bearings. Boca Bearing actually manufactures bearings so they'll likely be the best option.

tripd27

iTrader: (19)

Hey there good Yokomo People, I just bought and build a YZ-2 DT and having a horrible problem. Basically when exiting a corner and get on power the car gets incredibly squirly and its almost uncontrollable. I am running pretty much everything stock settings, other than 40wt in front and 37.5 in rear. I am running on indoor wet clay with medium traction. Clay electrons are the tires im running, and had no issues with these on my bmax2, everyone else runs these as well with no issue. I am wondering if maybe my diff might be too loose? Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

If your diff is too loose it would bark and most likely won't be swirly because it cannot apply the power. However, you probably want to do the front end lift test to be sure it is set just right. For me, just righ means the front end lifts 5-6 inches as I hold the rear wheels, but I also adjust my slipper according to grip conditions which can make all the difference. I'd suggest a setting where the tires are slightly breaking loose from a standing start because once the car is moving momentum and weight should add enough downforce to make the car stick pretty well.

Keep in mind however that I run the original YZ-2.

tripd27

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, the diff is not barking, I typically set my diff just loose enough not to bark. Are there a lot of differences in the yz2 and the new DT, other than 4 gear transmission? Also would tightening the diff make it want to straighten out when getting on power? Im also thinking I may need more rear toe in.

steam

iTrader: (10)

Rear toe would be a good start, Stock is 3 degrees, might try 3.5

steam

iTrader: (10)

Is Lee Martins actual reedy race set up anywhere, all I can find is pictures of his car?

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Lee Martin ran the Ymax at Reedy Race, not the same car by a mile, they changed a bunch of geometry for the new cars, his setup wouldn't really work that well with the DT.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

You need Red Yokomo front springs with 30 weight, AE white rear springs with 27.5 for your shock package, where are you shocks located? your over dampened with shock oil that thick not allowing the car to rotate and gain side traction. Didn't get fixed until I changed the location to the second to the most outer hole. Also what pistons? I am at 2X1.6 fronts, 2X1.7s in the rear. If your diff isn't barking, that's not the culprit. Also take out some steering by raising the front inner ballstud washer to 2mm, and get yourself a set of the 25gram weights for under the battery. Try those. I had to change very minimal things from box stock to get the car near perfect. Also are your tires well broken in? Electrons take a long time to come in fully, and have a narrow window of lasting. I would suggest if you can get a set of Microns, they come in quicker, but again don't last all that long before the foam becomes crap. For your diff setting, tighten it up until when you do the wheel flick test it rotates around 3/4 of a full turn. It doesn't need to be exact, if it rotates substantially more its too loose. Car is amazing and will do you well, just need to fix a couple of things.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

His shock package is way off with the oil, since he didn't say what pistons he is running, it could be a lot worse, that thick and he is not rotating enough to gain rear side bite which is why the car is squirrelly.

Glarke

iTrader: (1)

What effect does raising/lowering the front axle have guys? The adjustment you make by moving the spacer either to the to or bottom inside the c hub.