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ProSC 4x4 Ready-To-Run: Team Associated

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Old 10-26-2015, 03:11 PM
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No problem, I sometimes like to work with the underdog at times and take on a project to see if I can make it work. Associated kind of forced this one on me by discontinuing the SC10 4x4; which is still a very good truck. So the PROSC.....so far it's been a really solid platform. I race on a combination 1/10-1/8 scale track that favors a quick reacting truck yet one that can put power down and stretch out it's legs.

First off, Associated really fixed the major shortcoming's of the Prolite. The body mounts are so flexible that they almost feel like rubber. As such I have not broken any. I'm still running the stock power system (which is now holding me back; I'll discuss later) and I have not had any issues with the stock CVD's or rear dogbones. If I do eventually have an issue, a vendor names RCDamper on the bay has hardened steel CVD's as a set for the front and rear. Everyone complained about the front bumper but mine is perfectly fine. The new 16mm shocks, while composite, are actually pretty good once you use thick shock fluid. What they lack is adaptability, something that will now be available with the release of the threaded V2 aluminium shocks for this truck. Now as far as what these improvements have accomplished, I've been racing this truck for two months. I practice 4-5 days a week running 4-5 lipo's a day. I have broken not one part. Nothing.

However, right off the bat I did upgrade a few things and I have upgraded a few other things to ward off potential problems or to fix things that I thought were becoming issues.

The supplied radio. I'm sure it works fine. But unfortunately it does have that RTR feel that is just not acceptable to someone used to using Futaba or the like. I pulled that gear out before it even left my garage.

The steering servo. While it is a metal gear servo, I think it is better suited to a buggy than a 4x4 truck. Mine did not have the power to turn a set of sticky Calibers while the vehicle was sitting still. I was able to feel this on fast sweepers when you're trying to hold a line and also during tight but fast technical sections of the track. My solution was to install a Futaba S9352HV servo (Speed:@ 6.6V: 0.07sec/60 [email protected] 7.4V: 0.06sec/60 deg.Torque:@ 6.6V: 272 oz-in (19.6 kg cm) @ 7.4V: 305 oz-in (22.0 kg cm)
Not cheap but your steering servo is not a place to skimp. This servo solved the issue; though it created two more that I'll discuss later.

Steering slop. The truck is sloppier than Joe. This becomes readily apparent at high speed. Pretty easy to fix though. I started with a standard plastic servo arm to replace the servo saver. Then I installed Jconcepts ball studs on all steering points. I got rid of the plastic steering rack and installed the GPM aluminum one. Then I replaced all the steering turnbuckles with Lunsford Ti and RPM ball cups for all the Jconcepts studs. I then had to shim the steering knuckles with one .3 shim on both sides. I now have almost zero play. It was a serious upgrade from stock.

The stock bearings. In my honest opinion, they are not very good. No, change that, they suck. Both rear inner AND outer hub bearings became irrecoverably crunchy after about three runs. I then replaced every single bearing on the truck with ACER ceramic bearings. Good to go.

The rear hubs. I did not break the stock hubs. But kind of like B44.3 front arms, when you hear of enough issues from enough people you do a "pre-emptive" upgrade. I used the GPM aluminium rear hubs that can be found on Amz and the bay.

The stock shock oil is to light. The suspension is SOFT. So I experimented and for MY track, 42.5 in the front and 37.5 in the rear really helped.

Sway bars. I feel the truck really needs them. Some of this is due to the soft suspension, the rest just because it's a truck. The Prolite thread has plenty of suggestions or you can wait like me for the Associated set to be in stock. I've got an order in with Absolute Hobby and was told late October, so it should be soon. I'll report back when I get them and they are installed.

The diffs. They do work out of the box but like many RTR's, they are not ideally set up for track use. Mine had black grease in them which from what I've read, is equivalent to 2k fluid when hot. The truck really became much more controllable as I started to increase the viscosity of the diff fluid. I ended up at 30k front and 10k rear. Originally, after cleaning out all the grease, I started with 5k front and 2k rear. I went up by 5k on each end until it felt right to me. Your results will vary depending on your driving style, track conditions and your set up. One thing I did notice while in the diff's that I did not like was that unlike my B44.3, there are only two spider gears in the diff. I have had no issues but I would have rather seen 4 for durability.

The steering rack clearance. The steering rack on my truck would hit the left side of the chassis at full lock to the left. I simply used a dremel tool to cut out a small V to give it room. Took 15 seconds.

The rear arms. One issue that I did have was that the rear lower shock bolts kept ripping out of the arms. On this truck, you need to check these bolts after every run. Mine started to rip out after landing a large triple repeatedly. I came up with and tested to solutions to this. Both work fine. The first was to drill the factory setting lower shock hole all the way through to the opening, then use a longer, shouldered 4-40 bolt with a locknut on the back, installed in the opening on the middle of the arm. The other solution was to install billet rear arms from GPM. This allows you to effectively locktite the screws and yet still retain the adaptability of the other holes in the arm. The arms lie perfectly flat so it's easy to check them to make sure they are not bent. But I have not bent them in 30+ batteries on this same track.

The stock shocks. While a HUGE improvement over the Prolite shock. They do lack some of the finer tuning options that we now kind of require on a competition vehicle. But remember, this is in it's stock form an entry level RTR truck. Costs had to be trimmed somewhere. However, Associated came to the rescue with the release of their V2 threaded shocks for this truck. Well supported with parts from the 1/8th scale buggy shocks. I ordered a set and also the metal shock caps for the RC8 buggy. I'll report when I get them installed. Though I do believe the stock shocks are more than up to the task being 16mm. I think I will notice the most improvement due to the adjust ability and precision build of the V2 shocks. The plastic shocks have looser tolerances and wear faster than metal.

Now, here are some issues that were created by me when I upgraded some of this stuff.

The stock ESC/BEC. It just can't handle the power draw of the Futaba HV servo. I started to experience brown outs while in high load turns and simultaneously laying on the throttle. But that will not be a problem for long due to the next issue.

The stock motor. As a basher, I'm sure this motor is fine. The truck is pretty fast and powerful out of the box. But put this power system on a larger track against SCTE's running Tekin Pro4's and you just can't quite keep up. Powering out of turns, the Pro4 powered trucks had more torque and it shows. They can also clear larger and longer jumps that the PROSC just can't do. If you gear down to counter this, you lose to much top end and then they roll past you in the straights. So the truck needs more power. I do feel the stock drivetrain will handle a stronger motor, even with the 2 gear diff.

By upgrading to such a strong servo I also created another issue. The chassis is pretty stiff due to the top brace that runs the length of the chassis. But when you install a high torque servo, I now have the area around the servo flexing near full lock. I have not noticed any effect on handling but I may eventually fabricate a metal plate to mount under the servo.


In summary, is it the best thing out there? Nope. What it is is a reasonably priced, durable truck that you can have fun with and race competitively on a club level. I think with attention to the things I pointed out above, a good driver could win with this truck. So until and if Associated comes out with an SC5M 4x4, this is all we have; and I don't regret buying it one bit. Though I do wish they would release it as a roller. The fact that the entire electrical system will have been replaced kind of takes away some of the value. I guess you could keep the stock radio, I'm sure it works just fine. On an indoor, tighter track the stock power system would likely be sufficient. But it's just out gunned on a larger outdoor track. I'll post some pictures later when I get a chance.

Edit: I did not talk about tires and wheels because it's a given that you need to choose a tire for your track. The stock tires seem to be fine for bashing and they did work fairly well for a short while on my track. Get some FX11's or SC10 wheels and run the tire that works for you, where you are.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:49 PM
  #32  
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Thanks for the answer (even though I dont understand everything, because the technical stuff is not easy to translate )! Helped a lot.

Can you give a number on the most important upgrades? Servo and Radio are always planed. How much money did you spent to this status? Seems like as if (if you really dont need a 4x4) it would be cheaper for a guy (like me) who wants to get his first "good" truck, to buy a factory team kit?
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Thanks for the answer (even though I dont understand everything, because the technical stuff is not easy to translate )! Helped a lot.

Can you give a number on the most important upgrades? Servo and Radio are always planed. How much money did you spent to this status? Seems like as if (if you really dont need a 4x4) it would be cheaper for a guy (like me) who wants to get his first "good" truck, to buy a factory team kit?
No problem, glad to help.

What ever you didn't understand, just point it out and I will try to explain it better. I just realized you were from Germany so I understand. If it makes you feel any better, your English is WAY better than my German, and I lived in Bamberg for many years. Definitely the best 7 years of my life and wish I would have stayed.

Anyway, in my opinion:

"Can you give a number on the most important upgrades?"

1) Thicker AE shock oil.


2) Proper AE diff fluid.


3) Lunsford Ball studs- measure what you're replacing and buy the right length and diameter to fit whatever ball cups you buy.

4) Lunsford Ball Cups- buy the right diameter to match your new ball studs.


5) GPM rear hubs


6) Replace the rear hub bearings with anything other than what it comes with. The bearing is 10x15x4 and you need 4.



You will also need a lipo stick pack of at least 5000mah and the highest C rating you can afford.

Those five things will get you on the track with a reliable truck. Tires and wheels

are the most important thing you will do. So it's not even possible to give it a priority rating. It should be 0 and before 1st...

Now keep in mind, my experience may be different than that of some people. I've seen guys show up at the track with a Slash and break half the parts on it in a half an hour. I rarely require a marshal and at the most it's due to a spin out; NOT a 3 meter launch and cartwheel. So I tend to break less parts. The additional mods beyond what I just wrote were things to make the truck better and easier to drive. Beyond the radio, which we already discussed, those five things were done before I actually raced the truck. That was my starting point and I raced it for quite a while before deciding to do any more. If you are in a novice class and can keep the truck between the pipes, you can easily win with this truck by doing the mods I posted. You will have to tune it to suit your driving style and track conditions so the actual weights of the fluid may be different for you. Start low and work your way up until it feels right, at that point you're in the ballpark.

It is also VERY important with this truck (and any race car for that matter) to do your pre race checks and post race inspections. Locktite any and all metal to metal fasteners. I completely disassembled my truck as soon as I got it so that 1: I could learn how it's put together and 2: So I could locktite and tighten every nut, bolt and screw. Once you're racing you will be taking things apart often to clean, inspect and lube so you might as well learn how to do it early on.

My total investment in this truck beyond the purchase price has been around $250. But a huge portion of that was the Futaba S9352HV servo.

The Acer bearing kit was also expensive. The six mandatory things I listed above could likely be done for under $100 if you bargain shop. I tend to do things with only the best parts and electronics so my costs are usually high. My racing is extremely important to me and my primary hobby so I created a large budget for it.

As far as your last comment, 4x4 and 4x2 are two very different classes and they run very different gear. The 4x4 class is much faster and proportionately more expensive. But it's a lot of fun. The problem I have with the SC10 FT 4x4 is that it is discontinued. Parts are all still available though and it is in fact a more purpose designed competition truck. However, it is very finicky out of the box and in my opinion, requires more skill to drive fast. I could easily have both the ProSC and the SC10 but I don't feel that the SC10 would make me any faster.

My current experience with this truck in the racing environment has resulted in this:

In a race, one of our fast guys turned 17 laps in 10 minutes, 9 seconds resulting in an A Main win a few weeks ago. He drove a perfect race with no marshal's in his Tekin powered Tekno. I trained to that time all week and with my ProSC, stock power system, I turned 17 laps in 10 minutes, 12 seconds. 3 seconds off his time over the ten minutes. The truck is competitive.

However, in an actual race where you are rubbing fenders with other trucks, the stock power system shows it's limits. It is less powerful than the other trucks so it does not accelerate as fast. In practice I was able to carry speed through corners and drive the truck. In the race, you are bumping and avoiding other trucks so the deficiency in power really shows. In my last race I ended up almost 3 seconds per lap behind the race leader. Average laps on our track are mid thirties. I was also not driving as cleanly due to the pressures of being in a race so the driver failed (me) more than the truck. My turns were slightly wider and by having to drive around other trucks my lines were not as clean. But the ProSC did fine. Power allows you to make up for some of that.

Man....sorry for the long winded post. It's just I feel strongly that this truck does not get the credit it deserves. It's actually not a bad platform and Thunder Tiger knows this; which is why they used it for a few different vehicles.

Any vehicle that comes as a RTR will not be the most cost effective vehicle for a racer. There are just too many things that a racer will want to upgrade to make the truck more consistent. In the hands of someone who can drive a little and likes to tinker, the truck has potential. s far as your first hobby grade truck? I don't know. It's obvious that you like Associated (as do I, I've been racing Associated cars since 1990) so if you want to stay with them and support them you really don't have a lot of choice here. If you want a truck you can drive now and upgrade it as your skills improve, the ProSC is not a bad choice. And it's the only choice if you want to buy new. But the SC10 FT 4x4 is a great truck that has a proven race record. Parts are easy to get and many will be able to help you set it up properly due to it's popularity. You kind of need to know what you're doing to race a ProSC because no one will likely have any experience with one at many tracks. Most racers are put off by RTR trucks and the lack of factory bling parts. So I don't know man. I love the truck and will not be looking to upgrade to different one until Associated releases an SC5M 4x4 (if). I hope this helps and let me know if I can help you in any way. If you do get one, I can help you get it set up and running right. AR
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:10 AM
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Here's another tip that I have learned through heavy use of this truck:

This truck is EXTREMELY sensitive to the proper use of loctite on all metal to metal fastener locations. Initially, it seems they had an issue with the grub screws on the driveshafts and output shafts coming loose. Mine came with a heavy application of loctite from the factory but I re did them all nonetheless. I have had no issues with any of them coming loose since I secured them. However, during the first week I did chew up a spur gear. This seemed strange to me so I did some serious experimenting to find out why. It turn out, when I initially put the truck together, I forgot to use loctite on the lower motor mount screws. I then installed a chassis protector and therefore covered them up. Due to this, I was unable to see that they had worked loose and this resulted in the spur gear breakage. To test this, I used a new spur gear, applied loctite on the screws and then proceeded to run about 15 packs through the truck. I then measured the gear mesh and found it had only changed by a very insignificant amount (most likely due to simple wear). I then installed a new spur gear and intentionally left the three motor mount screws slightly loose. On the second battery, I landed a triple slightly rough and was treated to the sound of a stripped gear. I then compared that gear to the original one and the failure was the same; two broken teeth that had the same break pattern. I then installed the 2nd spur gear back on the truck, applied loctite to those three screws and have had zero issues since.

One of the biggest failure's of this truck is the fact that it is RTR. RTR implies that you can buy it, charge the battery and then run the truck. With this one that is just not the case. This truck requires some due diligence before it's ran. Things that normally would not be an issue if you assembled the truck yourself as a kit.

So to summarize: To increase the durability of this truck, remove, clean and loctite the following points:

The motor pinion gear grub screw. Check and set gear mesh while you're there. Page 9 in the manual.

The diff outdrive in front of the slipper, picture on page 10 and 25 of the manual. part number 7123.

The diff outdrives on both sides of the front and rear differentials. Picture on page 14 and 19 of the manual. Part number 7134.

The three motor mount screws shown on the bottom left of page 23, the screws are part number 25202.

The diff outdrive for the center drive shaft, front differential. Pictures are shown on page 20, part number 7134.

Also check the lower shock mounting screws front and rear, after each run.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:48 PM
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Just picked up a used ProSC as I wanted to get back to the 4x4 SC roots... almost went back to the SC10 4x4, but a local buddy had one othese... I tore the rear end down last night, and I can see why he was not happy... black greese in the diff's... YUK!

So I will spend the next couple weeks taking it apart and putting it back together to hit Tally for some 4x4 action. The class has died off a bit in my local area, so we'll see what happens a couple hours away.

I was going to put the threaded 13mm shocks on, but it looks like I will be putting some 1/8 th scale buggy shocks on instead.

My local track is a small technical track, and blue groove and dusty. The Tally track is an 8th scale track, large, and grooves up nicely.... I am open to a suggested setups for diff and shock weights... I will probably start with Alan's.
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bcane98 View Post
Just picked up a used ProSC as I wanted to get back to the 4x4 SC roots... almost went back to the SC10 4x4, but a local buddy had one othese... I tore the rear end down last night, and I can see why he was not happy... black greese in the diff's... YUK!

So I will spend the next couple weeks taking it apart and putting it back together to hit Tally for some 4x4 action. The class has died off a bit in my local area, so we'll see what happens a couple hours away.

I was going to put the threaded 13mm shocks on, but it looks like I will be putting some 1/8 th scale buggy shocks on instead.

My local track is a small technical track, and blue groove and dusty. The Tally track is an 8th scale track, large, and grooves up nicely.... I am open to a suggested setups for diff and shock weights... I will probably start with Alan's.
associated has the 16mm aluminum threaded shocks for this rtr too, direct fit.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...or_two_shocks/

you can also buy the bodies and collars without the rest of the parts to save a little money if you don't want complete shock kits
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:57 AM
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I bought 2 of these, 1 for me, 1 for my nephew. We are Rookies. I have enough mechanical no how to fix and maintain the truck. Noticed weak parts. i.e. the rear hubs, front diff case, set screws. however I have no clue about radio's, servos, power, grease, and lube. I'm gonna educate myself via youtube and play around at the track. i think shocks are next for me. Unfortunately, the track nearby doesnt race 4x4 trucks.

Any input helps. Though there has been some good coverage already.
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:08 PM
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Hey guys, I thought this died from lack of interest. I got the new threaded shocks installed last week. I have yet to take it to the track. One thing I did notice however was that with the new shocks and the stock rear spring, I had to thread the collar almost all the way down to get it to the same ride height. So I ordered and a 4.6 Black spring. This should provide the needed support and give me some leeway to adjust things. I also noticed that Associated just released new, upgraded CVA's for this truck. It seems parts are starting to roll out. Since my last post, I have installed the FT aluminum wheel hexes and sway bars in addition to the shocks. I now have a new Tekin RX8 Gen 2 ESC and Pro4 HD 4300 to install once I get the suspension dialed in again. Again I want to stress, this truck has potential. My only gripe is that it is only available as an RTR. I really didn't need ANY of the included electronics. See my posts above as to why. I'm quite far along with this truck now and it is just about exactly the way I want it. I'd be more than happy to help anyone regarding this truck and what seems to work with it. Good truck and no regrets at all.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:36 AM
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I need some help right now. had to replace spur gear. i used paper to space gear mesh. but i think the slip pads arent functioning or i have the slip too tight. or it just needed momentum to slip(havent driven it) basically, im getting no slip. i let off trigger and wheels lock up. Also, the spur gear wails loudly(which it was loud RTR, but any further away and im worried it may slip)earlier i wrote im mechanically inclined, but what i meant was i know how to turn wrenches. maybe i have the slip too tight?

also, as for all these extra parts. where do you people order from? i use tower hobbies so far.

PS alan - I bought 2 of these trucks, so the thread wont die out. the way my nephew and i drive, we'll be needing help.

Last edited by Meangene67; 11-14-2015 at 05:02 AM. Reason: edit - read manual on easy way to tighten or loosen slip, but havent experimented yet.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Meangene67 View Post
I need some help right now. had to replace spur gear. i used paper to space gear mesh. but i think the slip pads arent functioning or i have the slip too tight. or it just needed momentum to slip(havent driven it) basically, im getting no slip. i let off trigger and wheels lock up. Also, the spur gear wails loudly(which it was loud RTR, but any further away and im worried it may slip)earlier i wrote im mechanically inclined, but what i meant was i know how to turn wrenches. maybe i have the slip too tight?

also, as for all these extra parts. where do you people order from? i use tower hobbies so far.

PS alan - I bought 2 of these trucks, so the thread wont die out. the way my nephew and i drive, we'll be needing help.
Hey Gene, what happened to the spur gear? Broken tooth? Teeth? Verify that all three lower motor mount screws are tight and threadlocked (Red #271). Verify the motor mount clamping screw is tight and thread locked with a removable threadlock (blue #242 or Associated #1596)

The paper method is the way I do gear mesh on 48 pitch gears, I have found that 32 pitch gears, like those found on the ProSC, sometimes require more play to prevent binding. Two things to look at; take a flashlight and look at the point where the pinion meets the spur. The tip of the gear teeth should not touch anything at all. On 32p gears, I usually shoot for a 60-70% contact patch. You should be able to rock the spur gear without moving the pinion gear. The second thing, and possibly the cause of the noise, is dirt/sand in the gears. One tiny little spec of sand can cause the loudest howling you've ever heard. Unfortunately this truck has a semi exposed spur gear; exposed to the outside at the rear. I did two things to prevent this and keep the gears clean.

First I bought an OuterWears SC10 chassis shroud. This has helped IMMENSELY. Short Course Trucks seem to suck up the track and deposit it on the inside of the chassis. This shroud keeps dirt away from the spur on the inside. The second thing was to seal the two open areas at the back of the chassis, right where the front inner rear Arm hinge pins sit. I took a piece of paper and cut out the overall shape of the hole on both sides. Then I transferred that shape to an old CD case. I took an Xacto knife and scribed the plastic until I could snap out the shape. It took a few tries because CD case plastic us brittle. But eventually I got it done. Then I used thick CA to attach the CD case plastic over the two open areas. Solved the issue and my gears have been quiet and clean ever since.

As far as the slipper is concerned, I have plans to eventually trim an Associated yellow pad from the SC10 to fit. I am unsure of the quality of the included white pad. However, I have found this truck to like the slipper tight. I'm currently running the slipper with 3mm thread showing. I may have to tighten it to 3.3/3.5 when I install the Tekin motor though. Anything's possible but I suspect your broken spur gears are not being caused by the slipper being too tight. You could disassemble it and check it for proper operation. Also pay attention to drivetrain bind. Pay close attention to the rear hub bearings. Inner and outer. See my posts above. Any additional stress on the drivetrain is directly applied to the spur gear. Without the motor installed, it should roll along the floor surprisingly easy for a 4x4 truck.

A while back I had started to look into converting the slipper over to the one in the SC10. This would facilitate 48p gears but more importantly, allow the use of aftermarket metal gears. However, by going over all the things I listed, plus the stuff I talked about earlier, I have had zero issues in over 40 lipos and hundreds of laps on an 1/8 scale track. Once I get my post count up and get some time I'll post a bunch of pictures to show everything I've done.
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Old 11-14-2015, 06:06 PM
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Well I almost made it through the first qualifier, but then the front diff broke the cup side gear shaft... sheared it right off, so that ended my day. I am using Agama shocks with the stock springs and found it to be a little stiff though, but that's probably because of the cooler temps and thicker fluids.

With that, I made the decision to go ahead an purchase the V2 shocks, but what kind of springs other than the stock ones are available?

Has anyone run the SC4x4 26mm threaded shocks? Seems like a lot more AE options for springs...

I did change my spur gear to a 48p as I have more options from all my other AE gear instead of investing in more spurs/pinions. I put a 7.5 Tekin G2 and this things was wicked fast too. I was fairly consistent with 30 sec lap times during practice... top dog was running about 1-2 seconds faster than me though.

Last edited by bcane98; 11-14-2015 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:24 PM
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Interesting regarding the sheared drive cup, what's the story behind that? I can't really comment on the durability of this truck except from my own point of view and experience. I don't crash much anymore beyond a small traction roll or contact with another out of control car but I'm curious as to what sheared it off. Was the A arm ok or did it take out the entire assembly?

As far as springs go, from the measurements I've taken, the entire lineup of Associated 1/8 scale springs should work or can be made to work with the new shocks. I think the difference in length is a little less than 5mm. The available springs for the truck range from low 3's to mid 4's. Have you found the need to go outside that range? I'm currently running the 4.6 black springs front and rear. I have not tried out the new shocks yet though. All my testing was done with the stock 16mm composite shocks. I simply set up the new aluminium shocks to the same specifications as the composite shocks and ill tune from there.

One issue I may have that became apparent on the bench was that the dampening may be too slow with the new shocks while running the same weight as the old shocks. Once I get some tuning in with this new set up, I may be going back down in shock oil weight.

It's funny, except for power, which I brought up earlier, I was actually happy with the setup and performance of the stock 16mm shocks. It took some time but I dialed the truck in pretty good. These new shocks definitely changed things though, I'm quite sure that they have reset everything and ill hAve to start over again. I want to get them working properly before I install the sway bars; definitely before I install the new power system. One thing at a time as they say.

When you changed over to the sc10 48p spur, did you have any issues or was it a pretty simple install? I don't have an sc10 any more so I can't compare the inner diameter of the spur gear.

Last edited by Alan_r; 11-14-2015 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:30 AM
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The spur was a tight fit... i think the hole in the spur and the shaft a almost the same size. I had to apply a little pressure with a twisting motion to get it on, and then it slid on without much pressure. My fleet is mainly AE, so I have a ton of 48p spurs.

The shocks... so I installed some Agama 8th scale buggy front shocks all around since they were the shortest, and since the pistons from the AE shock did not fit I had to use the agama shaft and piston as well; shaft diameters are the same, but the piston and mount are not. I have the tapered pistons and each one has 6 holes in it running the stock springs. I ran the same fluids you recommended above, but I think I am running 40f/37.5r... gonna drop to 37.5/35 to see if that loosens the truck up a bit if I don't have the new shocks installed by the next race (2 weeks).

As for the cup... not sure why it broke either. I got the truck via trade, the previous owner is not a basher, but I did tap the inside corner a bit hard which spun my truck around. I don't want to think this was the cause, no issues with the arms, but I think I need to add a few more limiters inside to bring the front end down more; more reason to hurry up and buy the right shocks. The more I think about it, it was the other side that received the impact and not the broken side...

Meh... either way I had fun with the truck for about 10 minutes total (practice and a qual) and I would've easily taken 2nd in the Amain with my truck. After my truck broke I ran my friend SC 4x4 just to have fun... finished 2nd with his truck anyway
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:33 AM
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Yeah I figured the spurs were close when I looked at them, I just haven't had the need to make the swap yet. After sealing the gear area and getting the MM screws right, the spur just won't die. It's at the point now that if it did, I would consider it within its acceptable service life.

That's kinda what I noticed with the new shocks too. The original composite shocks require thick fluid. But the V2's seem to be more in line with all the other shocks I have; wanting mid 30's and nearby. I'll have to look at my notes to remember what pistions came with them but they definitely feel better than the stock shocks. The stock 16mm shocks are such an improvement over the Prolite shocks that the margin for improvement is much smaller. I'm excited to get out to the track and get these dialed in though. I'm not sure about pistion availability (possibly 8th scale?) so if it comes to that I'll buy some spares, fill in the holes with epoxy and drill my own various hole patterns and sizes. May not come to that though if they turn out to be close enough.

Good to hear your having success with the truck though. I usually don't take on rtr 's and try to make race cars out of them but this thing seemed to be pretty solid and a decent place to start. I wasn't interested in the Prolite but they improved it enough with this truck to make it viable. When deciding to get back into SC I considered buying another used SC10, but after campaigning the ProSC for a while I don't think it's holding me back at all. At least on the tracks I'm running on, I don't feel the SC10 4x4 would be enough of an upgrade to make it worth switching to. Someone on another forum (I think) said something about "bad suspension geometry" but I can't see it. I'm just an average club guy and yet this truck has turned consistent lap times on par with all the other trucks. It's not a complicated vehicle and sometimes I wonder if that has its own merit. The only time I had a dnf with this truck was when my power switch got inadvertently turned off when I landed on another vehicle while landing a large double.

I did notice another area that may have too much flex. I'm not a huge fan of aluminium parts but may try out the aluminium shock towers. They are protected by the body mounts; and would reduce flex in the suspension. Once the truck is dialed in again and I'm happy with it I may experiment with that in the future.

At this point if they released am sc5m 4x4 I would switch to it, but this truck is good enough that I have nothing to loose by running it until then. As the details get worked out it keeps getting easier and easier to run consistent laps with. Plus it's nice to be a hold out as everyone else seems to have dropped AE and switched to Tekno/TLR around here.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:10 PM
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[QUOTE=Alan_r;14265110]Hey Gene, what happened to the spur gear? /QUOTE]

it had a couple broken teeth. it came loose. now with the new spur gear, the wailing was the gear mesh. i had it way too tight. Mike at Leisure Hours Raceway, Joliet IL helped me set it right. Ran like a sewing machine afterwards. I can look into upgrades in the future. for instance the SC10 mesh. I'd like to hear about that most hobby shops don't carry parts for this truck. I drove 90 minutes one way to get a new spur for the weekend. Which nephew and I had a blast. Our bodies are all but destroyed however, also another rear hub broken.

1)Any fixes besides duct tape for a body?
2)Is a clear body more durable?

I noticed now that your very right on the steering servo, I lose line in corners, and it turns sharper one way that other.

Our first upgrade will be a Graupner Polaron EX Dual with some LiPo's.

3)2S LiPo or 3S? Brand? Which C rating for a 20 min charge time? Additionally the manual recommends a different gear pinion for a 3S. I'd prefer longer run time over power for speed at this point. I have a 5000mA NiMh, and I like its power over the 3000mA stock.
4)free paraboard with charger? do I need this? what does it do?
5)DC Power Supply, is this basically a UPS to charge without 120V? May never need it unless we travel to race, which could be never. can always buy later.
6)Where do you shop online? I use tower hobbies for all so far.

All your info has been much appreciated.

the only reason i want this charger is because it is 20A output.

Last edited by Meangene67; 11-15-2015 at 07:38 PM.
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