36LikesProSC 4x4 Ready-To-Run: Team Associated
01-26-2016, 04:59 PM
#211
You want something that has multiple holes yet still onesided. Or just a short one in general. The shorter your horn is the more torque your wheels will gwt.
01-27-2016, 07:50 AM
#212
Tech Addict
Found it. I tried to direct link the book but the file was to big. Check out the .pdf Hudy Setup guide. It says 1/8 buggy and truggy but the process is exactly the same. Figured this might be useful to anyone having issues with setup.
For a printable pdf
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=381&kategoria=0&Hudy_Session =72fd68eaec805fcea8cb01e93f7303ce
As a web page
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
For a printable pdf
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=381&kategoria=0&Hudy_Session =72fd68eaec805fcea8cb01e93f7303ce
As a web page
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Last edited by Alan_r; 01-27-2016 at 02:25 PM.
01-27-2016, 03:21 PM
#213
Tech Addict
Even better, found it all in a thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/348767-complete-set-up-guides-hudy.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/348767-complete-set-up-guides-hudy.html
01-28-2016, 04:25 AM
#214
Found it. I tried to direct link the book but the file was to big. Check out the .pdf Hudy Setup guide. It says 1/8 buggy and truggy but the process is exactly the same. Figured this might be useful to anyone having issues with setup.
For a printable pdf
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...cb01e93f7303ce
As a web page
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
For a printable pdf
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...cb01e93f7303ce
As a web page
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
01-28-2016, 08:54 AM
#215
Tech Addict
Definitely. I'm not an awesome race driver. I don't crash often and finish respectfully in races but I'm more of a tech/wrenchturner/experimenter/tester kind if guy. My vehicles are easy for me to drive and look good on the track because I take a lot of time to get them set up properly. They run fast and efficient the way they were designed to run. This also results in less broken and worn parts. If the car doesn't feel right, I'll keep troubleshooting my setup until it does. In my opinion it's definitely worth your time to do.
Kit setups are designed to run ok on a wide variety of tracks and at the hands of a wide variety of driving styles. It's up to the owner to fine tune the last 20% to local conditions.
Tires are HUGE. I've seen tracks change so much throughout the day that I started on Blockades and ended up on Snipers by the end of the day. Probably could have used Barcodes if the groove was a little wider.
On those days when it's 40 degrees at 9 in the morning but 70 at 3pm, you might start out running 27.5W shock oil but need 35-40 by late afternoon. This is a huge part of racing and for many, a huge part of the fun. Your challenge doesn't always just come from your competitors, sometimes the track itself is your greatest challenge. Whoever beats the track the best wins at the end of the day. I think this is why a lot of guys like indoor racing, the track is more consistent, and therefore less work. I've always raced outdoors by circumstance, so to me its the norm.AR
Kit setups are designed to run ok on a wide variety of tracks and at the hands of a wide variety of driving styles. It's up to the owner to fine tune the last 20% to local conditions.
Tires are HUGE. I've seen tracks change so much throughout the day that I started on Blockades and ended up on Snipers by the end of the day. Probably could have used Barcodes if the groove was a little wider.
On those days when it's 40 degrees at 9 in the morning but 70 at 3pm, you might start out running 27.5W shock oil but need 35-40 by late afternoon. This is a huge part of racing and for many, a huge part of the fun. Your challenge doesn't always just come from your competitors, sometimes the track itself is your greatest challenge. Whoever beats the track the best wins at the end of the day. I think this is why a lot of guys like indoor racing, the track is more consistent, and therefore less work. I've always raced outdoors by circumstance, so to me its the norm.AR
01-29-2016, 09:40 AM
#216
Well I installed white shocks on my truck yesterday. I also ordered some shims for the diff that are the exact size of the bearing and, MAN, what a clean up in steering and throttle that was. Also with the body lowered about 5mm give or take its rock solid for a hard packed with little dust track
01-29-2016, 08:12 PM
#217
Tech Initiate
I'm using the Savox SC-1258TG with 25T horn and stock electronics. I did add a "glitch buster" capacitor to the Rx to prevent brown-outs. The steering is 1000% improved on the street in front of my house. I will find out how it helps on the track tomorrow. I also added GPM alum. steering parts and Pro-line Holeshot M4 tires, as well as softening the shock oil and springs for the hard clay track. I basically spent $250 to get this thing to turn. If this doesn't work, I'm out of options.
01-31-2016, 07:16 AM
#218
Tech Rookie
I'm using the Savox SC-1258TG with 25T horn and stock electronics. I did add a "glitch buster" capacitor to the Rx to prevent brown-outs. The steering is 1000% improved on the street in front of my house. I will find out how it helps on the track tomorrow. I also added GPM alum. steering parts and Pro-line Holeshot M4 tires, as well as softening the shock oil and springs for the hard clay track. I basically spent $250 to get this thing to turn. If this doesn't work, I'm out of options.
I hope I'm okay with the 1256TG? I wasn't sure about the 1258 or 1256 so went with the "High Torque" marketing blurb...
Also ordered the aluminum horn but didn't order that capacitor thing.If I have some "brown out" issues like Alan then that Castle BEC thing should fix it right? Hoping I don't have any issues but I'll be back if I do.
Scott, let us know how the track goes. I'm hoping the steering issues are a thing of the past!
01-31-2016, 11:06 AM
#219
Tech Addict
iTrader: (41)
The 1256 will be just fine. I do prefer the 1258 for it's a little quicker.
If you experience some brown outs (Rx and or ESC resetting) then you'll want to get a cap (capacitor) for sure. That may work, but if you still experience brown outs then spend the $20 on a castle 10amp BEC. It will for sure be the fix.
I'm interested to see though if the stock Reedy ESC can handle these Savox servos though. I've yet to hear a report on it.
If you experience some brown outs (Rx and or ESC resetting) then you'll want to get a cap (capacitor) for sure. That may work, but if you still experience brown outs then spend the $20 on a castle 10amp BEC. It will for sure be the fix.
I'm interested to see though if the stock Reedy ESC can handle these Savox servos though. I've yet to hear a report on it.
01-31-2016, 01:44 PM
#220
Tech Initiate
OK, I spent all day Saturday at the track for practice, and just got home from race day. By the end of yesterday, I was ready to throw this thing into highway traffic. I spent 99% of my day working on it, not driving it. The single tiny screw that holds the motor to the mount kept loosening and caused it to strip the spur gear, the drive shaft cups kept coming loose, etc. - even with red thread lock. The motor gets hot enough that it melts the thread lock on that screw.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
01-31-2016, 02:46 PM
#221
Tech Rookie
The 1256 will be just fine. I do prefer the 1258 for it's a little quicker.
If you experience some brown outs (Rx and or ESC resetting) then you'll want to get a cap (capacitor) for sure. That may work, but if you still experience brown outs then spend the $20 on a castle 10amp BEC. It will for sure be the fix.
I'm interested to see though if the stock Reedy ESC can handle these Savox servos though. I've yet to hear a report on it.
If you experience some brown outs (Rx and or ESC resetting) then you'll want to get a cap (capacitor) for sure. That may work, but if you still experience brown outs then spend the $20 on a castle 10amp BEC. It will for sure be the fix.
I'm interested to see though if the stock Reedy ESC can handle these Savox servos though. I've yet to hear a report on it.
I went with the 1258 since the RTR servo was so terrible I was under the impression that I needed as much torque as possible.
Keep in mind I'm not racing and just having fun. My 1256 should be here tomorrow but I lost a steering bushing and have to wait for that to get here now...
Once I'm out running again I'll post on the upgraded 1256. I'm super excited.
01-31-2016, 02:48 PM
#222
Tech Rookie
OK, I spent all day Saturday at the track for practice, and just got home from race day. By the end of yesterday, I was ready to throw this thing into highway traffic. I spent 99% of my day working on it, not driving it. The single tiny screw that holds the motor to the mount kept loosening and caused it to strip the spur gear, the drive shaft cups kept coming loose, etc. - even with red thread lock. The motor gets hot enough that it melts the thread lock on that screw.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
I do plan on setting up my own track in the spring. That's for a different thread though...
01-31-2016, 06:48 PM
#223
Tech Addict
OK, I spent all day Saturday at the track for practice, and just got home from race day. By the end of yesterday, I was ready to throw this thing into highway traffic. I spent 99% of my day working on it, not driving it. The single tiny screw that holds the motor to the mount kept loosening and caused it to strip the spur gear, the drive shaft cups kept coming loose, etc. - even with red thread lock. The motor gets hot enough that it melts the thread lock on that screw.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
The good news is that this thing FINALLY turns. My setup for the packed clay 1/8th scale track is:
V2 shocks w/ 25wt oil (F & R)
Nickel springs (F & R)
F shocks in outside bottom hole
R shocks in next to outside bottom hole
28mm F ht. / 26mm R ht.
Front diff 20K
Rear diff 7K
Pro-line Hole Shot M4 tires
Savox 1258TG servo w/ alum horn
Neutral toe static (slight toe-out under power)
-2 Deg camber (F & R)
Now, I can turn and, if I setup for the line perfectly, can stay in the groove. However, on the bumpy straight or if I miss the perfect corner entry, the rear becomes unsettled and can spinout if I don't catch it in time. It's a little jittery throughout the course and takes extreme concentration to keep the line. My next change will be the white springs (F &/or R) and softer shock oil in the rear (20wt).
I'm getting to the point where a better motor will be needed. I can clear the triple, but it takes everything she's got. Another guy visiting from out of town had a ProSC with a Hobbywing 3656 4000Kv, using the stock ESC. It had much more power. Depending on how practice goes next week with the new springs, etc. I will order the motor.
Today was much better than yesterday. The lighter diff and shock oils made me laugh out loud on the first hot lap, when this thing held the groove. I know to tighten the motor screw every run, and the only parts breakages were due to hard collision with the bolt holding the tubes down near the triple landing.
I still need to cut 5 seconds per lap to be in the top 3, but I'm closing in. The other local 1/8th scale track is totally different: huge jumps and rough/loose sandy clay. I will need another set of shocks to put on for that track, instead of changing one set back and forth.
Anyway, long story short, it's finally becoming fun.
I've said it before but this platforms biggest failure is being sold as a RTR. It is not. Cheapo electronics and a bad stock setup cause many to walk away before putting the time in. It's quite capable once done right. If they sold this as a kit or ARR roller, like Turnigy does, most of these issues could be avoided. The thing you'll notice the most whenever you get your 410 and compare it is the weight difference. The Pro is a very agile truck and it's lightweight design makes it feel less planted. It takes some finesse but it can be done. If it constantly feels twitchy experiment with your toe/weight transfer settings. Its extremely sensitive to them.
That sucks not having a track near you. I'll admit having a nice track close makes it much easier to see the result of the tuning. Sounds like a perfect reason to get into crawling and parking lot touring car racing! Lol. I'm always amazed at how people come out of the woodwork when I'm testing one of my cars in the street or a parking lot. People stop and say "I've got one of those, might have to break it out and clean it up". Next thing you know, you're bashing with company........
02-01-2016, 06:02 PM
#224
Tech Initiate
Yeah, I've been fighting the weight transfer and toe battles since day one. When it's stable, it won't turn. When it turns, it's unstable. It is a really hard vehicle to tune. Maybe, since it is so light I need to find a way to give it more droop, to keep the tires on the ground when the chassis is bouncing over bumps.
I also need a radio with expo to calm it down.
I also need a radio with expo to calm it down.
02-01-2016, 06:26 PM
#225
Tech Rookie
I have a few questions I would like some help on.
What ride height are you guys running at?
My ride height is at 43 mm F&R with 2mm front load and 12mm rear load on the shocks.
How do I properly set Toe and Camber?
I have read Alan's link to the R/C Car handling website, but I am not sure I understand it all.
I have been following the thread and changing out parts as I break them.
So far I have upgraded:
- Savox 1256Tg Servo
- GPM Steering Set
- GPM Rear Hubs ( Ordered the Integy Hubs, dirt seems to clog in the GPMs)
- GPM Front Steering Blocks
- Avid Yellow Bearings
- 30k Front Diff Fluid
- 7k Rear Diff Fluid
- T Bone Front Bumper
- Integy Front Gearbox ( Ordered Rear Gearbox )
- HD 6mm and 8mm Ball Studs ( Not installed )
- HD Ball Cups SC10 set ( Not installed ) * waiting on Turnbuckles.
I have also installed the RC8.2e FT 16x26mm Front shocks on front and rear shocks. I used the ProSC springs and have the Nickel in front and the Blacks springs in the rear with 27.5 weight fluid in F&R.
I got the shocks from a Ebay part seller and they were $5 more than the V2 Shock body alone. I am hoping the 4mm difference is not too much. The Rear shocks fit great, the Fronts shocks are about half depressed while sitting flat. I am not sure how to correct this issue.
I also noticed that Associated just listed the Aluminum FT Option set on their website. Pretty expensive at $149.99 for the set though.
Integy offers an Aluminum Suspension kit for around $50 depending on the colors you want. I have ordered the Gearbox and rear hubs and I had no issue with parts or shipping so far. Maybe I have been lucky but I have no issues with them so far. Shipping is usually 5-7 days, but I do not have any issues with it. It is not Amazon prime by no means.
What ride height are you guys running at?
My ride height is at 43 mm F&R with 2mm front load and 12mm rear load on the shocks.
How do I properly set Toe and Camber?
I have read Alan's link to the R/C Car handling website, but I am not sure I understand it all.
I have been following the thread and changing out parts as I break them.
So far I have upgraded:
- Savox 1256Tg Servo
- GPM Steering Set
- GPM Rear Hubs ( Ordered the Integy Hubs, dirt seems to clog in the GPMs)
- GPM Front Steering Blocks
- Avid Yellow Bearings
- 30k Front Diff Fluid
- 7k Rear Diff Fluid
- T Bone Front Bumper
- Integy Front Gearbox ( Ordered Rear Gearbox )
- HD 6mm and 8mm Ball Studs ( Not installed )
- HD Ball Cups SC10 set ( Not installed ) * waiting on Turnbuckles.
I have also installed the RC8.2e FT 16x26mm Front shocks on front and rear shocks. I used the ProSC springs and have the Nickel in front and the Blacks springs in the rear with 27.5 weight fluid in F&R.
I got the shocks from a Ebay part seller and they were $5 more than the V2 Shock body alone. I am hoping the 4mm difference is not too much. The Rear shocks fit great, the Fronts shocks are about half depressed while sitting flat. I am not sure how to correct this issue.
I also noticed that Associated just listed the Aluminum FT Option set on their website. Pretty expensive at $149.99 for the set though.
Integy offers an Aluminum Suspension kit for around $50 depending on the colors you want. I have ordered the Gearbox and rear hubs and I had no issue with parts or shipping so far. Maybe I have been lucky but I have no issues with them so far. Shipping is usually 5-7 days, but I do not have any issues with it. It is not Amazon prime by no means.
Last edited by jastone35; 02-01-2016 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Typos and shock size was listed wrong