fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

I think he is geared about properly, around here most guys run around a 69/34 on B5M's I run a 72/33 on my VBC with a fully hopped up Novak Vulcan motor (rotor, bearings, etc) and my motor barely gets warm, I am just as fast as any other car out there and my buggy weighs about 1550 ready to run.

Look at overall weight, how free your transmission operates, and your motor might need more timing.

dhmav51

iTrader: (1)

With the Fantom motor, being a D4 based motor, then the kV is 4000+, meaning there is a loss of torque, so a lower gear is required vs. a 2200 to 3000 kV motor. Add timing on top of that, and it's a slow heat monster.

I'd check and make sure all the drivetrain is free, that all the radio settings are where the speedo mfg says to put them, and make sure the firmware is what's recommended, but I definitely wouldn't overlook being over geared.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

That's not the motor he is running.

And we don't know if he is over-geared or under-geared (or properly geared) without knowing what rotor he is running.

With the factory 12.3 BP rotor, you are certainly over-geared. So we need the following:

1. You are likely over geared, unless you're running an outlaw 13mm Ht rotor in there. If you are running the stock 12.3 BP purple rotor, you should gear at 69/32, at 20 degrees timing on the endbell. That's a good starting point. (if it's an apex 1, and not an apex2. Apex 2 should be 50 on the endebell)
2. Re-Calibrate your ESC/Radio so you in fact know you're getting 100% throttle
3. If your diff or slipper is too loose, you could be losing all your power there
4. Make sure your drive train spins freely on it's own
5. Batteries make a HUGE difference. What are you running? How do you maintain them? What is the IR of the pack? Borrow a pack from somebody who you know is getting a lot of power on the track.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

On the durango, make sure that the transmission case screws aren't too tight and causing binding. In my experience with the durango 2wd trans the screws holding the motor plate on and case halves together need to be almost loose before everything spins free with no binding.


Sorry, I know this is a bit off topic, but how did you flash the HW software to the Trackstar esc? Id like to do this to simplify programming and just use the HW program box on a trackstar esc I have.

dhmav51

iTrader: (1)

You're correct Capt, the Apex was a Duo based 3000kV motor.

Best way to see if you're under geared is if the speedo overheats. Again, like was stated before, you're over geared.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

not necessarily. We run a yearly EIGHT hour enduro in 13.5, where we have to drastically under-gear our motors, and add a fan to them.. and the ESCs don't even get warm.

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

the same way you would change the firmware on a HW esc, instead you've got the Turnigy one plugged in.

I did it on a couple of HK X-car 120's. just plug them in to the PC, load up the HW software, flash the esc and done.

NewbieRacer30

iTrader: (1)

i would check your slipper clutch... I noticed mine was to loose last night, tighten it a bit and it was like night and day for me. Just another check you can do to weed out the problem

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

I run a dex210v2, revtech 17.5, purple rotor, 35/69, turbo 120 blinky rm4, lighter than stock 7075 chassis, oiled bearings, protek saddles. My speed tops out halfway on the straight. Infeild is good but the big gap jump and the straight need more. My buddys rb5 is totally stock and will pull away. Hes at 34/69. I guess the dongos just need more of a diet than others. Im going to a .020 thick body and dropping the side pods for a start.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

drop a ton of weight by switching from saddles to a shorty pack!!!

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

Weight won't have as much as an affect on top speed, but rather how fast you get there. try the things mentioned before going crazy taking bits where they might not necessarily need to be taken.

toddw83

I am running a turnigy 4200mah shorty pack with a 65~130C rating. Only about 10-15 runs on both packs. Transmission screw are not super tight which I was very careful of since I experienced that sort of binding on my sc10. It's not bearings...the kit is brand new. Motor and esc temps seem fine. I have not put a gauge on them by they are not hot at all to the touch after 6 minute heats. It's an apex2 motor with a 12.3mm rotor and is at 50* timing. Oh and I am running it in the MM4 config.

I just ordered a new sensor cable. And will check my radio settings. I will also log onto turnigy's site to see if there are any software updates.

bh796B

Try going up or down a tooth or two if its not hot, I know everyones saying youre about right (Which i think you are too) However Not every motor is the same.. I run an identical Electronic/buggy/gearing as a buddy of mine (Reedy Mach 2/B5M/69-31 at my local track and my car pulls on his down the straight... If you exhaust all other options might as well give this a try.

EDIT.. Is the motor old? Might be worth pulling it apart and re-oiling/replacing the bearings

rmajester

Check the ESC programming and the battery charger

Coppercanyon

iTrader: (18)

I had the same thing happen recently and it turned out to be a bad sensor wire.