serious contemplation on ball diffs
11-20-2014, 05:25 AM
#16
Cool, i thought i was looking at acer and i thought it didnt mention the actual grade, but a $1 a ball...ehh ill take my chances first
11-20-2014, 05:34 AM
#17
How can you tell if the diff slips before the slipper or visa versa???
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
Last edited by NickTheGreek; 11-20-2014 at 05:45 AM.
11-20-2014, 05:59 AM
#18
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
How can you tell if the diff slips before the slipper or visa versa???
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
11-20-2014, 06:15 AM
#19
To add to those questions, how tight can you put the diff? Say you spin one tire the opposite tire spins the opposite direction, you tighten it, same thing tighten it some more, then they spin the same direction, can you tighten just to the point they alllllmost spin the same direction but do in fact spin the opposite way? Or is that to tight as well? I usually dont go that tight, but id like to on my 4wd
11-20-2014, 06:16 AM
#20
How can you tell if the diff slips before the slipper or visa versa???
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
Say you rebuild the diff, put it back in the car,tighten the slipper....hold down the rear wheels while you give a lil throttle.....
If the diff slips before the slipper, how can you tell??
Edit.....another question....
When you spin one rear tire by hand the opposite tire spins the other way.
What causes the opposite affect to happen....where you spin one rear wheel one way and the opposite wheel spins the same way.
On one of my buggies for example the wheels would spin the opposite way when turning on by hand....Now when I spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will turn the same way...then I might feel something engage and they turn opposite directions for a few seconds and then they'll go back to spinning the same direction.
Why is this??
A lot of it also has to do with the magnets in the motor. Magnets in a brushed motor are strong so when you spin the one wheel the pinion gear and spur gear will stay in place and the other will wheel will almost always spin the opposite direction. With a brushless motor it may spin the opposite way then make a click noise start turning in the same direction. Hold you spur gear with your hand (this will eliminate the chances of the pinion gear and spur gear from spinning) and spin one wheel and see what happens to the other one. It should spin the opposite direction nice and smoothly.
I always put the diff in the car where it's tight enough just to spin the other outdrive, break it in, tighten it up and back off about an 1/8 of a turn. Then I adjust the slipper clutch so I can try to get the diff and slipper working with each other. I'll generally test my slipper in my living room on carpet by pushing the car backwards a few feet and punch the throttle and listen for the slip and adjust from there.
Last edited by skeasor; 11-20-2014 at 06:33 AM.
11-20-2014, 06:33 AM
#21
These are great questions and I can only assume most of them are answered on the sticky: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
11-20-2014, 06:36 AM
#22
These are great questions and I can only assume most of them are answered on the sticky: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
A lot of people build diffs and adjust them differently though. I guess whatever works for you It's one of those things that once you find out what works best for you, you stick with that routine.I generally run on clay tracks with good traction so my diff is generally on the tight side.
11-20-2014, 07:22 AM
#23
11-22-2014, 05:30 PM
#24
lol this doesn't sound like your normal self. Is this really NickTheGreek
A lot of it also has to do with the magnets in the motor. Magnets in a brushed motor are strong so when you spin the one wheel the pinion gear and spur gear will stay in place and the other will wheel will almost always spin the opposite direction. With a brushless motor it may spin the opposite way then make a click noise start turning in the same direction. Hold you spur gear with your hand (this will eliminate the chances of the pinion gear and spur gear from spinning) and spin one wheel and see what happens to the other one. It should spin the opposite direction nice and smoothly.
I always put the diff in the car where it's tight enough just to spin the other outdrive, break it in, tighten it up and back off about an 1/8 of a turn. Then I adjust the slipper clutch so I can try to get the diff and slipper working with each other. I'll generally test my slipper in my living room on carpet by pushing the car backwards a few feet and punch the throttle and listen for the slip and adjust from there.
A lot of it also has to do with the magnets in the motor. Magnets in a brushed motor are strong so when you spin the one wheel the pinion gear and spur gear will stay in place and the other will wheel will almost always spin the opposite direction. With a brushless motor it may spin the opposite way then make a click noise start turning in the same direction. Hold you spur gear with your hand (this will eliminate the chances of the pinion gear and spur gear from spinning) and spin one wheel and see what happens to the other one. It should spin the opposite direction nice and smoothly.
I always put the diff in the car where it's tight enough just to spin the other outdrive, break it in, tighten it up and back off about an 1/8 of a turn. Then I adjust the slipper clutch so I can try to get the diff and slipper working with each other. I'll generally test my slipper in my living room on carpet by pushing the car backwards a few feet and punch the throttle and listen for the slip and adjust from there.
When I saw the title of the thread start off with "serious contemplation..." , I knew it was serious. When I saw it end in "ball diff",fuggedaboudit....I knew it was REAL serious.
So I had to give the thread its proper respect....
.........
The manual, yeah,they tell you how to put it together.....like it's a peace of cake, but what they don't tell you is how to finesse it.
Basically, you grease up your balls all nice n stuff em in ALL the holes like a real degenerate (ah yeah babe) ......n then start screwing and vouala....You got a ball diff....
This is BS...
It's like with a broad...If you just take her and oil n grease her like a cake pan, then stuff her like you're stuffing salami in a sandwich....Chances are,you're gonna have problems....
Throw some finesse in there though, when it comes to stuffing, everyday will be like Thanksgiving....
That's why you gotta treat your ball diff like your woman....n finesse the sumbich.
That's what the manual don't tell you.
Edit: exactly that.....it will spin in say opposite directions, make the click n then start spinning in the same direction....
It could be that the diff is too tight also like brotha Bubonic said.....
On my rc10 worlds car, everything was spinning right....but then it just entered my mind how I had never checked or re tightened the diff after building it n was just running the car,overpowered for (many) weeks.....so I just gave the diff a 1/4 turn.....after that,now that I think about it, the wheels will often spin in the same direction when I turn one...
Last edited by NickTheGreek; 11-22-2014 at 06:23 PM.
11-24-2014, 01:26 AM
#26
.........
you grease up your balls all nice n stuff em in ALL the holes like a real degenerate (ah yeah babe) ......n then start screwing and vouala....You got a ball diff....
It's like with a broad...If you just take her and oil n grease her like a cake pan, then stuff her like you're stuffing salami in a sandwich....Chances are,you're gonna have problems....
That's why you gotta treat your ball diff like your woman....n finesse the sumbich.
That's what the manual don't tell you.
...
lmao! I dig it..
well thrust bearings and rings for the 44 will be here today or tomorrow, ill keep this updated if everything works out well, maybe ill remember what I forgot to do, or did improperly..
11-24-2014, 06:05 AM
#27
I see your point on getting help from some of the guys at the track, tho im leary in doing that, I hear so many different things from people sometimes (do this, no don't listen to him do that)...I love learning (sometimes I really learn the most when its the hard way) so im gonna try to do this one more time by myself..(with rctechs help of course!)
I watched a video of an olderish guy building b44 diffs and I followed what he said pretty darn close..
I watched a video of an olderish guy building b44 diffs and I followed what he said pretty darn close..
do everything the manual tells you but heres the key... As it says tighten all the way and back it off i cant remember how turns. just follow those directions. Next take 2 wrenches and slip them in the slots of the outdrives. this is so the outdrives do not move. Now take a towel so that you can grab the diff gear and try to spin it. Use all your strentgh to do this if you cant move the gear its too tight. back the screw off maybe a eighth at a time, keep doing the same process till you can make the gear slip. Once it slips its on the edge of were it needs to be. Tighten back maybe an eighth of of turn until the you cant make the gear slip again. Your done!
Now to make sure the setting is ok in the car turn on your car and radio....take your forearm and rest it across both rear tires and tap the throttle a couple times while you have your forearm across the rear tires. Dont hold the throttle just blip it.. What your looking for is the cars front wheels to rise a couple inches and most importantly the diff does not bark and slip. If it barks/slips tighten diff an eighth of a turn. Try again till the diff is quiet and the tires lift.
I can get my wheels to lift with a 17.5. I don't do this for SC. Too heavy so I don't do it. I have seen it done with a SC though.
11-25-2014, 09:30 AM
#28
I guess i just wanted to hear a bunch of other peoples opinions on what works for them..
Well today i will rebuild my b44's diffs using the bulk order grade5 ceramic diff balls stock rings that will be sanded and bfast caged ceramic thrust bearings..ill probably run it this weekend so hopefully all goes well
Well today i will rebuild my b44's diffs using the bulk order grade5 ceramic diff balls stock rings that will be sanded and bfast caged ceramic thrust bearings..ill probably run it this weekend so hopefully all goes well
11-27-2014, 09:32 AM
#30
I know there a good amount of threads out there on building ball diffs, but I want some personal experience on what works best for you, and why.
if at all possible maybe some insight on the cars im currently running...
im running the b5/b5m, and the b44.2
the b44 is the one im having the most problems with..im making it one race day before the diffs are trash,
the b5 and b5m are doing ok I think, they last about 5 race days before they get even a little gritty the b5 used carbide balls and still feels a lot better than the b5m with steel..
so I just ordered some grade 5 ceramic balls, I was planning on getting b fast diff rings and some sort of caged thrust bearings..
what are yalls thoughts on the caged thrust bearings? what do yall use to get your diffs silky smooth for along time?
if at all possible maybe some insight on the cars im currently running...
im running the b5/b5m, and the b44.2
the b44 is the one im having the most problems with..im making it one race day before the diffs are trash,
the b5 and b5m are doing ok I think, they last about 5 race days before they get even a little gritty the b5 used carbide balls and still feels a lot better than the b5m with steel..
so I just ordered some grade 5 ceramic balls, I was planning on getting b fast diff rings and some sort of caged thrust bearings..
what are yalls thoughts on the caged thrust bearings? what do yall use to get your diffs silky smooth for along time?
I just follow the manual and I haven't had any issues.
I remember days when my losi diffs would be mint..for 1 race day. Then they required to be relubed, but not rebuilt.
A well adjusted diff, with the right amount of lube, and consistently cleaned, relubed and kept adjusted can last a VERY long time.
I also don't pin the throttle if I'm stuck against or on a tube - stuff like that eats diff's.