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Old 09-20-2005, 10:10 PM   #16
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i think the problem is the bars. i always had that problem with deans until i switched to smc bars or promatch bars. i think it is because the negative on the bar is smaller. i would say get new bars or drill out the negative with a drill bit to make a hole
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:17 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by chagabtay
Great advice! I think I'm going to shell out for another quality iron so I can accomodate a larger chisel tip. Right now I'm using my trusty 75w weller gun. Maybe it's just not serving the purpose for me anymore.

any advice on a new brand? Money is not a factor, I'm already in the doghouse with the wife. might as well get as much as I can before I start spewing sorry's to her. (tis better to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission).

you are using a gun? thats your problem...get an actual iron...the guns dont work for some reason..dont hold the heat well i think.
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Old 09-21-2005, 08:22 AM   #18
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I use a 40w Weller with a chisel tip, and it works fine. Higher heat just means less working time before the cell goes poof..

Are you using any flux besides what's in the solder itself? I always use external solder, and it works great.

I noticed you said:

"and a deans speed jig minus the bar holder downer thingy"

Why minus the bar holder? That's kind of a required part for this job.
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Old 09-21-2005, 08:38 AM   #19
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You need to move to at least a 40 Weller or Hakker fixed iron. I keep one of these to just do batteries with. Big chisel tip. $20 - $30. If you get too hot of an iron the solder evaporates and you end up trying to tranfer heat with a dry tip.
On that note I use a Hakker Station 936 for my regular duty stuff.

Scuff the ends of your cell. Positive and negative are different materials and are different thicknesses.
Tin the ends lightly with no clean 60/40 or no clean silver solder 5%.

Take your bar and scuff the mounting surfaces. Apply a drop of flux to both solder tinned areas and set your bar on with pinted pliers.

WET the tip of your iron to transfer maximum heat and apply the heat to the negative end first and the flux will fuse the bar as it boils out. This is a very fast process. The reson you do negative first is because it is the lowest point between two cells side by side and the thicker material will be better if you have to reheat the battery bar.

WET the tip again and do your positive side.

When you get good the whole thing will take you less than 20 secs with an applied heat time of less than 5 secs.

Hope this helps.

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Old 09-21-2005, 08:46 AM   #20
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A little flux goes a long ways.
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Old 09-21-2005, 10:46 AM   #21
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Personally once I upgraded to a decent unit I've enjoyed soldering.

I use this station with a LED readout on set temp and actual temp of the iron.


we'll see if this works:

I'll look around for a link to a picture of the tip that I've had the best luck with.

EDIT Looks like it's the ETDD tip
Link to different tips for above iron.

Link to measuring A and B
Basically A is the diameter of the tip. That tip transfer's heat very quickly and things just go together quick and painless. I do however, like using that battery bar holder thingy on my jig.

Last edited by eri3f0g; 09-21-2005 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 09-22-2005, 09:32 AM   #22
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the Weller soldering gun is most certainly your problem
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:36 PM   #23
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Thanks for the advice guys! It sounds like my problem is centered around my equipment. I'm looking for a new iron now and I also want to employ a few of the methods you all mentioned.

SPEEDMONKEY: My "bar holder downer thingy" (LMAO) has been lost to one of my young boys. he must've eaten it, though I hope not because that spring can't be fun to pass. I get by with a modified C-clamp! LONG LIVE MACGYVER!

Honestly, you guys are all great. I can't thank you all enough for your advice. It's good to know y'all are there when common sense gives way to anger and frustration!
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