XXX-NT AD2 FIX
 

This is my solution for the kits 4-40 button head screws that kept falling out (even with lock tite) on my first race. I found some 4-40 X 3/8" socket head cap screws with holes in the head. They are from Associated # 6929 4-40 X 3/8" screws for battery box. They come in a pack of 4 and sell for about $2.00. I used the smallest stainless steel safety wire I could find that would not break and fit through the holes. Last week I raced and did not loose any screws.
I also had trouble with the white ball cups coming off, so I got Du-bros 4-40 heavy duty ball ends and they work fine except for steering (too big) and I also had to file down the end of the rear hub to get full travel without hitting the rod end.
Happy RACIN !
Rick Harris

The screws won't come out with a little prep time. Clean the hub and the screw well with motor spray, and just use a dab of loctite. Rub the screw along your finger to wipe off the excess loctite (you only want the loctite in the bottom of the threads) and crank it down. It's usually best to run a 1/2 inch cap head screw so you can get it tight.

what is the reason for using screws?

is the bearing too large for a hinge pin?

nevermind, I see the bearing is to large

i guess it helps to look at the pics a little better!

Wow Rick this looks ghetto! What a pain in the butt!

~LA

I built my kit per the manual and have not lost a screw ever. I wouldnt run a car with that ghetto of a fix on it.

O.S. power - The screws make it faster to change from long arm to short and vice versa, and it makes the whole area stronger than simply using a hinge pin.

If you follow how I described in my last post, they'll be fine. This is how we've been doing it to get our cars ready for hour long main events, without one problem.