32.5 ae front and rear
Ae shock bottoms
Blue ae front springs, 5mm cup ae, outside hole on arm, 2nd hole on tower
White ae rear spring, 0mm cup, 2nd hole on tower, outside hole on arm
20mm ride height
6.0 reedy
4500 100 venom

Adjustable motor mount for the ER-14 on its way. One part the racers have been asking for from Intech.

http://www.redrc.net/2016/05/intech-...m-motor-mount/

when will it be in stock at Dialed-RC Hobbies??

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...MotorMount.jpg
Yep! It looks nice!

so our local club is starting up a 13.5T Super Stock class and I've been working on my ER-14 using Gene's setup and have been having a hard time getting the weight of the car down to the min weight restriction of 1613g... I'm currently at 1669g and need to drop another 56g. I've already switched to a LCG LiPo, titanium screws, lightened battery tray mod and flipped the rear arms.

Does anyone know if there are titanium crown/bevel gears available for the diffs?
How about a lightened body?
I'm thinking of replacing the ball studs/turnbuckles with titanium next... any other ideas on how I can drop some more weight?

Kinda leaning toward drilling into the chassis to help lighten the load, but really want to save that as a last resort.

*** UPDATE

Something like this is what I'm looking for, but compatible with the ER-14:
http://www.rcracer.com/2015/01/xray-...loy-diff-gear/

Intech has not made any light wight options yet even though I have asked many times. But I ran mine stock except some titanium ball studs and still TQ'd and won the Regionals on slicks indoors. Use a good motor like a Trinity 24k with a fan and it will be plenty fast enough in 13.5T. But rotating mass is the most important thing, not overall weight.

glad to hear it's still competitive with mostly box stock parts... I actually dropped 150g of weight already with the mods I applied, but yeah rotating mass is tough to reduce without a proper mill. Thanks!

Honestly the mass helps with smoothness. I would focus on freeing the drivetrain up as much as possible. This helps lower motor temps and gives back a lot of performance that is being hidden from the drivetrain. A good quality ceramic bearing with triflow or TKO bearing oil helps out a ton.

funny you mention ceramic bearings, I placed an order for a set from AVID yesterday... gonna try the "Ceramic Revolution" series with the metal shield exposed and rubber seals removed on the inside. I've heard that ceramic bearings weigh less and removing the rubber seals should help eliminate a little more rotating mass as well. I was curious what bearing oils folks were using as well... I'm guessing with the rubber shields removed, I'll probably need to clean them a little more regularly.

Thanks

I am not sure how removing a rubber seal is going to affect rotating mass as it doesnt spin. Weightwise I do not see them as much of a loss, its the effect of the ceramic staying truer with the heat. Also ceramic bearings are not packed with a thick grease. This helps with the freer rotation they have. I never recommend removing bearing seals.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html

billdelong - All I did to the stock bearings was remove a seal and add Dry Fluid Extreme -- spins as free as my 2wd. As the other guys said, I run a Maclan 13.5 and don't have any issues with the weight holding me back. My eyesight and driving --- that's another issue. But the speed and agility of the car is there.

my AVID ceramic bearings arrived today, they weigh exactly the same as the rubber sealed bearings that came in the kit, with the rubber shields removed on one side the total weight reduction of all 18 shields came out to 0.7g... looking forward to running Gene's setup for Super Stock on Saturday!

I'm gonna try the stock grease that shipped from AVID for this first race day in the bearings, then compare lap times later with other PFTE dry lube's.

you guys were right, the heavier ER-14 performed just as good as all the other name brands on the track today, several folks were asking questions about my car, it was really hooked up with Gene's setup and I look forward to running this class more regularly :D

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7616/2...48c0a74e_b.jpg

During practice, I got taken out by a eBug and stripped out the gear box where I had the ball stud threaded because the rear arms were reversed, so I fastened the links back onto the shock tower and made it through the rest of the day without any breaks.

Are you using the longer 10mm ball studs in the rear bulkhead?

no, actually I had to place a spacer on the stud because the screw that fastens the shock tower was too long, the more I think about it, the ideal method might be to use about an 18 to 20mm long screw to fasten the shock tower which would leave about 4mm of thread exposed, then use a threaded ball end on the back side.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7604/2...d93bbd0f_o.jpg

No chance of jacking up the gear box this way ;)

I also found that I got my fastest lap times with front 2WD tires mounted on front 4WD wheels, I was able to carry faster corner speed without risk of traction rolling which seemed to plague some of the other drivers in the class yesterday. Here's a sample of what I'm talking about where both wheels in the following picture are 60mm EVO 4WD front:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7015/2...65edc3f8_c.jpg

as a follow-up from my previous post, I'm finding that the 2WD front tires tend to push a little more than the 4WD fronts which makes the car handle a little more stable.

I've been experimenting with the AKA EVO wheels lately, and the hub is thicker than normal wheels which have been requiring me to use low profile nuts on the rear wheels, but I kinda like the idea of using serrated nylon locking nuts instead so I decided to use a 13mm (1/2") forstner bit to bore into the wheel and it worked like a charm!

Stock depth = 9.25mm (note the front EVO's are 2.25mm deep)
I cut about 3.5mm to 4mm into the wheel to get roughly 5.5mm thick hubs, I basically stopped cutting right when the interior webbing starts to show, so far I haven't compromised the durability of the wheel after a full day of racing :)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7291/2...176c946f_c.jpg



Note that there's a pinch of slop because the axles aren't quite thick enough to fill the space in the slot of the hole, but the slop goes away once you wrench down on the lock nut and it sets properly into the hex. Not really sure of any other EVO style wheel to try so this will have to do for now ;)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7348/2...3653ac91_c.jpg

any news on a new car yet

Super Excited to get my New Intech Kits on the Track! I just finished building the ER-14 with HW 120A V3.1 and a 6.5 trinity motor! This will be run in the mod class and should be STUPID fast. Hopefully I can get some track time this Sunday as work has had me out of town prohibiting me from getting some. I've seen some setup sheets for astro, but does anyone have a good setup sheet for high bite clay?

Thanks,
Brandon

If anyone one wants a ER-14, PM me.... incredible deal awaits.

Astroturf tuning the ER24
 

Hi

I have an ER14 and after running on astro need some advice on tuning. Car was pretty good but traction rolling an area for improvement.

Cannot find the part numbers for option thicker antirollbars mentioned in the manual. anybody know where i can get then in Europe. Will other brands fit?

Secondly, any shock position tips.

Thirdly any shorter springs or ways to drop the ride height lower than stock springs allow, feel I need 2-3mm lower.

Help appreciated...Car is pretty darn good out of the box though...

As far as the ER-14 goes. To lower the ride height you can either use Xray XB4 springs or AE Big Bore springs. The Xray springs are shorter but if you still want lower ride heights even with stock springs (less than 19mm) then you need AE B5M spring perches and ball ends. AS91448 and AS91310 are the correct part numbers. You will need to space the rod end away from the wishbone a little as the lowest perch does hit the wishbone on full extension.

The car has way too much roll in it as standard and almost no negative camber gain. The biggest changes I made to effect the balance on the car were:

Lower the front turnbuckle to the outside lower hole on the front tower. The ball end will rub against the bulkhead a little, just remove a little material from the bulkhead. You can then add washers under the ball stud on the hub to add more camber gain at the front which will give it alot more bite should you need it.

Move the inner rear ballstud from the normal mounting holes down to the shock tower mounting hole. I used extra long Schumacher ball studs and rod ends. U3299, it is a shorter rod end so you might need a longer turnbuckle if memory serves (will check if needed). Also move the rear hub hinge pin to the inside mounting hole on the wishbone.

intech parts are back in usa email me at [email protected]

that's great news, are re-selling as a private party or official distributor? Will there be a website or Facebook Market page (or similar) coming soon as well?

Parts for 2wd buggy as well ?

yes 2wd buggy as well

Thank you sir

[email protected] for info

intech parts and kits www.tracksidehobby.com also looking for team drivers for 2018 in the usa

I'm trying to help another guy buy an ER-14 battery tray, but can't find any INTECH parts on your website, what's the deal with your inventory?

Hello everybody. I was just wondering if anyone has tried fitting any other bodies? I have 2 er14's but only 1 body. Any info would be appreciated

It is possible but the topdecks are mounted very high in the car so other bodies do need alot of cutting to fit. You would also need to cut the chassis and fit chassis side rails from that manufacturer as the Intech is the only car I can think of that has completely straight sides. My car with XB4 bodyshell and side rails.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5d257e5852.jpg

Thanks conrad. That xb4 body looks sharp on there. Looks like not much cutting required either, except for some on the front. Thank you for the info. I'll check into that

It is a tight fit, there is only a couple of mm between the shocks and body at the rear. The front body post was moved back about 10mm if memory serves me to get the shell low enough.

I know someone who used B64 side rails and body, it turned out well although the side rails on the B64 are shaped so some more detailed cutting of the chassis is required.

What year xb4 siderails did you use? Not sure if there's much difference in them though

I used the '18 model year. They are the same shape, the mounting holes are in different positions is all. I drilled my own holes for mounting so it doesn't really matter which you use.