Those of you who race a 1/8 Buggy, do you use a skid plate?
#1
Those of you who race a 1/8 Buggy, do you use a skid plate?
I am farely new to racing so pardon my limited knowledge.
I ran skid plates and found they actually made me jump a little off by kicking up in the rear. Perhaps a setup issue?
This is why I asked this.
Since this is probably the same problem for all 1/8 buggies(regarding skid plates).
Do you use them? Or replace the chassis?
I ask, because I am not sure if I can get a replacement chassis from Tekno.
I ran skid plates and found they actually made me jump a little off by kicking up in the rear. Perhaps a setup issue?
This is why I asked this.
Since this is probably the same problem for all 1/8 buggies(regarding skid plates).
Do you use them? Or replace the chassis?
I ask, because I am not sure if I can get a replacement chassis from Tekno.
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
I understand your concern with the Tekno chassis since I also have a Tekno conversion that is now obsolete. It is almost impossible to run skid plates at our local track due to how sticky the dirt is. If you bottom out on the landing of a jump, you might just be stuck there because of the skid plate.
#4
I now run the m2c chassis with integrated skids on my eco. They're made out of steel and sit flush with the chassis. Best of both worlds.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
I won't ever run skid plates (even on sugar tracks). Its just one more thing that can go wrong. Just replace the chassis when it gets too thin. In fact I don't even like chassis protectors on my 1/10 cars no access to screws and don't last as long as the aluminum of course lolz.
#6
Check out Sumo Racing skids, they are great and don't affect downtravel that much.
#8
I'm surprised by the lack of love for the rear skid plate. I think they work well and don't effect the ride but to each his own.
Last edited by branover; 09-06-2014 at 06:06 PM.
#9
I personally prefer a thin skid plate such as the DE if I choose to use one. I am testing out an aluminum skid on my sct410, and so far have no noticeable negative effects. The down low weight made the car easier to level out during nose down situations as well.
Depending on the car you run this may not be the same story for you however. Some cars might just naturally like to be slappy, and need all that up travel in order to jump properly etc.
Besides I think there is something in a lot of us that makes us want to preserve that stupid anodizing on the bottom of our chassis
Depending on the car you run this may not be the same story for you however. Some cars might just naturally like to be slappy, and need all that up travel in order to jump properly etc.
Besides I think there is something in a lot of us that makes us want to preserve that stupid anodizing on the bottom of our chassis
#10
thin metal skids is what you want
#11
No skidplates for me, a normal chassis lasts more than 2 seasons!
#12
I like Leadfinger stainless. Thin and stronger.
http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/All-Stainless-Skids_c2.htm
http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/All-Stainless-Skids_c2.htm
#13
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (198)
I Agree with Pak
The Stainless LFR Skid is the best on the market. Thin but super strong. Saves that $130 chassis.
I like Leadfinger stainless. Thin and stronger.
http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/All-Stainless-Skids_c2.htm
http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/All-Stainless-Skids_c2.htm
#14
I personally prefer a thin skid plate such as the DE if I choose to use one. I am testing out an aluminum skid on my sct410, and so far have no noticeable negative effects. The down low weight made the car easier to level out during nose down situations as well.
Depending on the car you run this may not be the same story for you however. Some cars might just naturally like to be slappy, and need all that up travel in order to jump properly etc.
Besides I think there is something in a lot of us that makes us want to preserve that stupid anodizing on the bottom of our chassis
Depending on the car you run this may not be the same story for you however. Some cars might just naturally like to be slappy, and need all that up travel in order to jump properly etc.
Besides I think there is something in a lot of us that makes us want to preserve that stupid anodizing on the bottom of our chassis
On my rc8.2e they make jumping pop the rear up for me. Without them the problem is non goes away.
Thank you all for you replys much appreciated.