leothegreat

iTrader: (3)

I have a losi 8ight 3.0e.

I run it with a 1900 tekin gen 2 on 4s.

My spur is a 48t and my pinion is 15t

After a 10 min amain/practice I come off at 180.

I'm not sure what to do. I would like it to have less punch and more top end.

Any 2 cents would be appreciatied.

Thanks

theblitzkidd

iTrader: (11)

Mount a fan I seen people put fan next to motor or cut the holes on the body or maybe binding some where or drop pinion to one size smaller I heard it reduces 10 degrees less just by going down one number

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

1400kv/6s

Zerodefect

180 sounds perfect to me for a 10 min run.

Gear up a tooth and use your hand and some water to temp after 5 min. IR temp guages are the debil.

Stay below boiling and you're GTG. I've boiled spit a few times in 1/8th scale and my rotor still checks out strong enough.

leothegreat

iTrader: (3)

Magnets don't like heat. Anything over 160 isn't good says some

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

depends on the motor. 180 on a 1.8 is a little on the high side but for 10 mins and in the dead of summer, not too bad. A fan will help or drop a tooth on the pinion. Heck even being smoother on the throttle and brake can drop temps a good bit.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Blinky or boosted?

If blinky reduce the can timing a touch to reduce temps to around 160F then increase gearing.

Also try less toe front and rear, less rear wing ect.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

Lower your punch control or current limiter.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

This^. With the c/l at 80% you would never notice a difference. Set it at 60% and give it a try. I think you'll be surprised.

I had good luck with my 1700kv by selecting timing profile #2 and gearing down a tooth. You might try that too, theory being lower mechanical load and recovering top speed with a touch of timing. Remember, 4-pole motors have a much more limited timing window that 2-pole motors do.

Zerodefect

True. But you can measure a magnetic field. And if it isn't getting weaker......then you're leaving some performance on the table by obsessing over temps.

http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN28589

Especially when using a pathetic IR temp device calibrated for the inside of a human ear.

Also note, as a rotor weakens, the motor is going to run hotter and hotter. Easy to notice. Diminishing performance and way hotter temps.

Zerodefect

dupe

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

A conservatively set up 1900kv/4s is more power than can be harnessed on anything but a large, very high-traction track. Better to run the motor well below its limits and leave both the unusable performance and the temp gun on the table.

This also opens a tuning window without concern for temp damage. Need really strong brakes? A little more timing for a long straight? These things shouldn't cause complication if the setup is within reasonable limits.

leothegreat

iTrader: (3)

Lolol I think my $70 amprobe ir608a infrared thermometer gives true temp readings

leothegreat

iTrader: (3)

But thanks I'll try a couple things

Zerodefect

Good luck with that. Would you consider the surface of your motor smooth? Shiny maybe? Or a rough matte finish?

" Most IR thermometer units have a fixed pre-set emissivity of 0.9, which is the emissivity value for most organic materials and painted or oxidized surfaces. Measuring shiny objects can be problematic. "

My Fluke can swing 50 degrees from a simple coat of wax on the object being tested. I use it to test for dead cylinders on engines. Basicly 19 cylinders are hot, but the header on cylinder #20 is 200 degrees colder, way colder. That's about the extent of the usefulness of such a tool. It's readings aren't accurate at all, but if you're detailed, the $$$$ ones can at least give repeatable results. But I'm not going to sweat the #'s much, as IR scanners can swing wildly. The nitro guys have finally learned to can the IR things, eventually that wisdom may spread to electric.

If you can keep you hand on your motor for a good period of time without screaming like a girl, you're likely OK. Worst case scenerio, your rotor will get weak at the end of a season or two.