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Xray XB8E thread

Old 08-08-2019, 06:54 AM
  #1396  
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Been trying the 5 dot and initial feeling is good!
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Old 08-08-2019, 09:41 AM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by uDi_MP7.5 View Post
Hey TheWorstDriver, could you share some pics or info of your throttle/brake curves? I asked earlier (quoted below) but you maybe missed it.

Appreciate the details on the MIP pistons, I'll probably give your exact setup a go when I get the chance to buy some.


OK so, first you would probably need to know the details of my battery, motor, and pinion to understand the radio and ECS settings. If you've been running E for a while, and know how you like your settings, I would stick to that.


Battery 15.2 volt LiHV 5200Mah

Tekin RX8 Gen 3 with a Tekin 2050KV (with a 1900KV I assume my settings would be totally different)

16T pinion/46T spur


RX8:

Turned down to 50-60% max torque

Brake frequency has been turned up for a smoother feel, and overall brake turned down, (I like to use lighter brake settings rather than hard tap them, so as to not upset the cars traction and weight transfer too much). However, If you are always using the brake to make the car rotate, then you might need to change the cars setup to better rotate, and then re-setup the brake.


Radio:

I do most of the "smoothing out" of the settings in my radio (SanWa M17)

Throttle speed settings 100% (I like instant response upon physical movement of the radio, and I use other settings to down-play the strength of the response. I think some people get "speed of the response and "strength" of the response mixed up. Often they will use dual rate to change both at the same time, when this might not be optimal.)

Brake Speed settings 100%

EPA Brake 95% (I like to have a 5% adjustable range so I can fine tune from the stand, I have linked two trim buttons to the EPA settings for brake and TH, so I can drive and adjust at the same time)

EPA TH 95%

My current 10 point throttle curve settings, I change them often, but the settings below are what I have now. I normally have my trigger movement setup to leave me a little room for what I call "panic play", a little less response on initial physical trigger movement, but when I line up a jump that last stab is progressive and really punches out!,... like - EXP) Also makes it easier to tiptoe around technical sections)

Point 3% (initial trigger pull)

Point 12%


Point 26%

Point 39%

Point 47%

Point 61%


Point 72%

Point 84% (stab up quickly and a bit more progressively)

Point 95%

Point 100%


The buggy has been driven by others, and the feedback is: "like butter", "smooth", and "Easy to drive". I do understand that "easy to drive", can mean "too slow", so as I can spare consistency in my laps, I will speed things up or increase power and brake to drop lap times if possible. Hope that helps.
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:32 AM
  #1398  
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for springs.. we still running 4dot up front.. 3 dot rear.. when its smooth high bite.. we went to 4dot rears.. i did use mugen springs last year.. they work.. but you have to flip the spring collar because the mugen springs are smaller diameter.. the kyosho springs work as well.. at nats this year.. the AE guys were borrowing the xray springs and swaybars.. just a little info..
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:30 AM
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I'm assuming the 4 dot is a stiffer spring then the 3 dot, If I was to upgrade to the 4 dot, would I change my shock piston or shock oil settings?
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mxracer4life View Post
I'm assuming the 4 dot is a stiffer spring then the 3 dot, If I was to upgrade to the 4 dot, would I change my shock piston or shock oil settings?
yes, its stiffer than the 3dot.. i dont know your settings on our shocks.. so i cant say weather to change or not.
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mxracer4life View Post
I'm assuming the 4 dot is a stiffer spring then the 3 dot, If I was to upgrade to the 4 dot, would I change my shock piston or shock oil settings?
Itís not really an upgrade just a change to what the surface/style dictates
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Old 08-29-2019, 04:47 AM
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Hi guys

Question about gearing on XB8E on hobbywing setup.

2018 XB8E, HW XR8+/4268 1900kv G2, stock 46 spur.. Stock ESC settings, running sensored.
On our local track it gets hot even on 15t pinion.
It`s new track, no pro`s/very experienced guys to ask (I`m one of the most experienced). No real racing, but i`m going OK fast i`d say.

Very loose top surface (gravel/sand) on a hard base, medium speed track. I run both normal buggy tires, and some proline badlands every now and then (track surface is very loose, so normal buggy tires just doesnt grip)
I can run 13-15min on a 5000mah including some crashes, so i dont think i`m pusing it really hard?

On 15t pinion it gets prettyhot after 9-10min, even with just 20`C/68`F outside. Like sometimes kicks in on 105`C motortemp limiter (low limit on esc) if i`m pushing it.
Hardly ever seen a datalog saying under 85`C/185f max temp motor, 70`C/158f ESC even on the slippery buggy tires.
On 14t it helps alot ofcourse. But this is such low gearing that i miss out alot on air control when i have to blip throttle to correct. Huge difference.

Looks like most guys run 15t and 16t pinions on this setup. Therfore i wonder if i got issues? Or is it the track that`s so hard on the setup, so 14t really is needed?

I`m considering going up to 4274 1900kv because of this, but i want some experienced input first.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:25 AM
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Do you have a fan on the motor?
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:46 PM
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I use a 13 pinion with the badlands as that is a hard push with those big tires.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:39 PM
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Agree w/ both above, you're overgeared for your own usage / tyres - and with any motor (any brand), overheating them will do permanent damage and they'll always run hot after that.
I've never hit the temp cutout on the same motors, buy a temp gun (even a cheap ebay one) and set your gearing based on that, then aim for absolute max of 90*C. My avg temps are 70-85*C.

Different people have different driving styles, tracks, ESC setups, so just because one person uses a 16T on this buggy, doesn't mean you should.
Motor temp should never hit 105*C, you're already damaging the bearings at that point especially if you let it happen regularly.
If you want to run high gearing under heavy use / large tires, you need a good fan.
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:55 AM
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Thanks guys, thats useful info that confirms it`s all normal then..

You know how it is, it sucks to go lower on power when youre allready spoiled having tons of it.
Measured 75`C with a gun yesterday with the 14t, and i`ve gotten pretty much used to it after acouple days on the track, so i guess i`ll just leave it as is
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:37 PM
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I am using a 15 tooth and it works well. I just changed motors to a Tekin 2000 truggy motor, and it is a blast. I wanted more brakes above everything else. My car didn't handle all that well, and I bought it used. This week I was changing the rear shock oil and both rear shocks were binding horribly. So I sanded the pistons till they were smooth, and now the car has transformed into a great handling machine, so much more fun to drive. Now I will have to get used to how it is suppose to handle. What a pisser at all those previous races???
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:40 PM
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Because of the truggy motor I just ordered 5 dot front and 4 dot rear. It is a 56 gram difference. Have a big race coming up on the 14th.
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:42 PM
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I was having motor problems and a wire was broke on the sensor wire. I didn't know till i pulled it off, and sure enough. Nice, cheap fix. Took care of the heat and cogging.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:38 PM
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I installed the 5 dot front and 4 dot rear springs and it handles great. I sure hope the weather lets us race Saturday? I am just about to pull the plug on the plus 2 shock shafts, but they are pricey! Are they really worth it?
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