EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

the shock bodies and pistons are the same. The only difference might be the shaft length. So just compare the part numbers for the two and you've got an answer :-)

sealander

iTrader: (11)

Has anyone driven one of these yet? Wondering how it compares to the other buggies out there.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

It's really just the b44.2 with some weight rearranged. There are plenty of drivers on the b44.2 and even this thread that have already submitted some input on the new layout and how it drives. Seems the result is: it handles as well or better than the old b44.2, but can be suited for different track conditions with the optional shorty setup and included center diff.

rigor

iTrader: (44)

While I haven't driven a 44.3 yet (mine shipped today), my understanding from the guys that tested and driven quite a bit is that is handles equal or better, is more nimble, jumps better, and the center diff is a huge asset. Sounds like you can punch it even more than previous B44's.

doorz

iTrader: (2)

Hi all,,finished my 44.3 and had a couple of minor problems.
Shims too large for outdrive bearings= get the dremmel to work,,
and a couple of other minor issues,,it'll be good to hear if anyone else had issues with advice to solve,,
Running gear diffs and gear center diff with shorty config,,

Thanks.

Andrew Selvaggi

iTrader: (10)

Hey Doorz, great to hear you got a 44.3.
If you go back a few pages you'll find a few build tips I posted, including the issues you had.

doorz

iTrader: (2)

Cheers Andrew,,yeh love getting a new car.
It'll be interesting to see how it compares,,

rigor

iTrader: (44)

We should probably get a build FAQ going and sticky'd to the 1st post.

Toiffel

iTrader: (52)

Can't wait for the build !! Just picked up mine, been riding in the truck of my car since last night !!

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

Who has used the b5 ballcups and studs? and is it worth converting

and what size studs are needed

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Most definitely worth converting, no slop and risk of popped ballcup is greatly reduced. You will need the ballcups and (12) 8mm B5 ballstuds. If you have the JC aluminum rack, replace (2) 8mm studs with (2) 10mm studs. If you use the rear CF hub tower, replace (2) 8mm studs with (2) 6mm studs. you will need 3mm nuts but for the steering hubs you can either tap the 4-40 nuts with 3mm tap or Dremel down a 3mm nut to fit. Tapping would be easier. I would suggest getting two packs of the B5 ballcups to avoid using the "bent" ones or you can use those on the rear hub tower. your choice.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Hey guys,

I've updated the front page. If you guys have any more build tips or would like to see anything on front page, PM me. Thanks!

hackersmovie

iTrader: (14)

Can someone explain why everyone is so excited that this buggy now comes with gear diffs?!?! In my opinion, a ball diff is WAY easier to adjust and tune. I can loosen or tighten it in a minute or two. With gear diffs, you have to remove it and change the gear oil. Plus, if the 1/10 gear diffs are like those in my 1/8 scale, I had to rebuild them every two weeks. I've got about 4 weeks on my SC10 ball diff and it's still perfect.

What am I missing?


BTW: I ordered mine today and also ordered ball diffs for the front and rear

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Where can I find the 70g ballast weight?

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Well I don't know why you had to rebuild your diffs every two weeks. With indoor racing, I can leave the diff fluid in for months between rebuilds with no further adjustments. Even when I raced 1/8th at the old NorCal hobbies, I could go a month easily between refilling it. To me, building a gear diff is a lot easier than a ball diff. And you don't have to worry about tightening a gear diff too much.