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45 amp esc VS. 120 amp esc. How to get the most out of you're 17.5

45 amp esc VS. 120 amp esc. How to get the most out of you're 17.5

Old 06-17-2014, 10:19 PM
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Default 45 amp esc VS. 120 amp esc. How to get the most out of you're 17.5

I see the just stock esc from hobby wing at a damn good price and darn good weight and size. But I just can't let go of my high amp lrp. Or does it even Matter!?!?!?!??!? If you have the knowledge of how to keep it cheap and keeping it quick. Chime in no need to be shy.


And what about charging amps and resistance in batteries. Which battery has the lowest resistance; what do you have?
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:41 PM
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The main difference between a 120 and a 45 amp esc is the number of Fets in it. More Fets means it can handle more power. I prefer the 120 amp model because I think the extra Fets help it run cooler since there is more to handle the load. Plus i think the throttle response is smoother.

I run the Formula X lipos. You want a lipo with the lowest IR (Internal Resistance) you can get. Without getting too technical the lower IR means it will hold a charge better and longer. For stock racing I discharge at 20 amps and charge at 20 amps right before my run. You need to be VERY VERY careful doing this and you should always use a lipo safe bag and closely monitor you lipos. I would also recommend one of the newer chargers like the Icharger 308,406,or 4010. These chargers tell you a lot of info about your cells which is very useful for stock racing.
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:17 AM
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I run a 60amp HW xerun esc, its plentifull for 17.5 blinky races. I can even run it without the fan. Of course a higher amp esc will always be better as you can always use it with a hotter motor in you other kits. But a 45 or 60amp esc will be enough for your 17.5 blinky.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:36 AM
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Look at the resistance as well. I wouldn't worry about amperage with a 17.5 blinky.
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:19 AM
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higher amperage esc's and high C batteries both mean lower IR. That being said you can't compare C rating from brand to brand
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:25 AM
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Hrmmmm....
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:01 PM
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I usually run Tekins for my spec cars. I bought a HW JUSTOCK. At first I figured wth I'll give it a shot for 50 bucks. It is a very good esc. Is it better than a higher amp rated esc that costs 3 to 4 times more? No, but it is just as good for blinky racing. It cracks me up with people so hot on the trail of c ratings and lower ir. Unless you run a flawless run every time that stuff doesn't matter but for one and only one exception would be a large jump with no run at it. I routinely race mains in 17.5 blinky buggy and 13.5 blinky stadium truck with Reedy 25c shorties to give a smooth power feel. Think of this, you run a 100c battery when traction is less than perfect and you loosen the slipper to compensate. What have you gained? All the explosiveness gets turned into heat from running a looser slipper. I don't buy into all the hype because I can't drive at a pro level where the hype might make a difference
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:15 AM
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I run a HK 35amp Xcar ESC with a Trinity D3 13.5 with zero timing in a RC10B3 and routinely beat the guys running faster motors and high end ESCs. If you setup your car correctly for a given track, you will do much better than the guy running a faster car, but poorly set up for that track. Just my thought.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:57 AM
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Ever thought about running solid wire VS stranded?
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