lolagt

Okie dokie.

Finishing up today(Cant do it all in one stretch, old arthritic paws).

Last night I got the front all buttoned up. The front diff seemed even tighter than the rear, no room for extra shims on the spider gears. Felt almost notchy in the crown and ring gear mesh. But that doesn't worry me as they still looked new and will get smoother over time. It is just the way tolerances work.

Rebuilt the center just a while ago. Have streamlined the operation and things go much faster after doing a couple diffs now. I just spray the assemblies with brake cleaner and work a toothbrush on them and it takes a minute, instead of ten.
So, I trial assemble it and this diff isn't like the others, it was a loose click clicker when spinning an outdrive back and forth, and now even I know it isn't supposed to do that.
So I'm looking and I can see the slop. Looks like there is room to double up the shims on this one.
I'm pulling it apart and a couple pieces come off, funny looking shims, three of them have separated and one was about to.
Anyway, it seems like the single shims were never enough from the start and had room to shimmy(lol) and eat themselves, as I was able to get two sets of new ones in there. Much tighter, not room for three sets and still not quite as tight as the other two were. Again, those manufacturing tolerances didn't work so well for this diff.

daedalus

iTrader: (4)

I always put 1 shim behind each planetary and then add 1 shim to the pair of satellite gears (so there is a total of 3 shims, 1 on one side, 2 on another).

starryalley

I placed the order on tower last week and I'm expecting my typhon to arrive by end of next week. Really exciting now. The only thing I'd wanna change right away is switching to 16T pinion.

I read it here: https://arrmaforum.com/threads/strip...ub-screw.1205/ that it's extremely hard to remove the default 14T pinion.

According to daedalus here one will need to heat it for quite some time. I'm quite new to this, may I ask what exactly should I do? I just point my soldering gun on the tip of the shaft and let it heat for a few minute, and then use a good 2mm metric hex and try all my best to unscrew the pinion screw?

I also want to buy some spare 17mm wheel nut in case it falls off and gone. May I use any other brand's 17mm wheel nuts? There are at least 2 kinds that I can find on amainhobbies: coarse and fine thread. Which one will fit ARRMA Typhon? Thanks.

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I had no trouble removing my factory pinion. A good and tight fitment of the 2mm Allen wrench to the set screw and keeping it straight as you turn it should be able to break it loose. If you have to use heat, you will likely need to leave a 40watt solder iron laying across the pinion gear at least 15-20 minutes to develop enough heat to loosen something that is tight enough to require heat.

I've been in the hobby for over 30 years but I admit that I am new to 1/8th scale rigs. So as far as the 17mm nuts for your wheels/axles; I bought a Team Magic E6 Trooper monster truck years ago. I had lost a wheel nut.....I just bought the 1st set i found on ebay and they fit perfectly. I grabbed an extra one the other day to try on my Typhon and, again, no problem.

I bought my Typhon last February and it came with a dead ESC right out of the box. It took over 2 months to get a warranty claim fulfilled. Halfway through, I bought a Mamba XL system and dropped it in with the 16t pinion(the warranty ESC and motor replaced the brushed system in my Trooper). I have removed 5 different tires from their wheels since after only 2 days of racing. I suspect that the glue is partly to blame as well.

When I remove the old motor and ESC from the car, I was not impressed with the amount of thread lock that they use to secure the screws to all the aluminum pieces such as the motor mount. They had used way too much and it basically ruined the threads when I remove the screws. I told hobbico about the problem and they sent me all the necessary parts to remedy the problem.

So far I've been extremely impressed with the durability of the unit. It has taken many crashes and smashes with no broken parts at all. The Mamba Max XL system on 4S has never shown any sign of heating up and works flawlessly. I've been very happy with the car in regards to the chassis and I've done well with it while racing when I can keep tires on the rims. I've been thinking about running Short Course Truck when indoor season come back around so I am wondering if I will be able to somehow convert this into the truck I want to drive.

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

I've not broke a thing! My only issue has been keeping tires glued to rims

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

My first day of racing, the track was exactly as you described for me as well. It was extremely hard packed and Dusty. I had tried to use the factory dboots tires and they did not work very well at all. Personally I have been using prolines Diamondback and caliber tires. I think the Calibers work the best but yet I have not broke them in good enough. I've been having problems with them coming off the rims. I think the glue is part of the problem. My Typhon has been running against Associated, Losi, Teckno, and various other buggies. Considering the fact that I am an average driver I'm doing very well with this buggy. I've been impressed that I've actually been able to play 3rd place in a few of the Heats.

lolagt

I am still too much of a rookie to track driving to try racing except for some mock fun racing on practice days.
I am getting much better for consistency now as I can go out and string 10 laps together and keep it off the pipes and right side up. I'm not particularly fast but I've had my moments and like mentioned, the car is way better than me and it can easily keep up with the local guys no matter what they are driving.
The couple friends I've made at the track run 4x4 and 2wd SCTs and a 4x4 1/10 buggy(fast little !@#$). For the longest time I was the follower, but now I occasionally spank them, they've noticed I am getting there because they spend a lot of time trying to put me in the pipes now. Ha!

daedalus

iTrader: (4)

I had no trouble removing the set screw in the pinon but i did have a ton of red threadlock all over the motor shaft. I put the soldering iron onto the motor shaft and let it heat up a few minutes. Then i just used a mini needle nose pliars to pry against the motor mount and it came off ok.

Had another track day this weekend. Ran probably 2 hours of actual track time driving the Typhon on both 4S and 6S. Not a single issue... Love this thing to death! Using AKA Racing Clay premounts without any issues and really hooked up on my local track.

As far as tires coming unglued I had issues on my Talion and suspect I would on the Typhon as well with the stock diff fluid setup. Too much power bleeds off to the front wheels and would blow tires off constantly. I did a 60k front diff / 125k center diff / 30k rear diff on both of my cars and it keeps the front end down, doesn't bleed as much power and still handles excellent. A bit more wheelie action but on lower grip surfaces (loose dirt/slick clay) the car just stays more level and puts a lot more power down more effectively. A fluid swap just might help solve your tire issues!

tonymoly

I also learned that the MBX7 arms are stronger than the steering plate when going full front tilt into the back of a big double at a BMX track.

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

Come to think of it....it was the front tires that were giving me trouble. Do they make a spool for the Typhon? I'll have to look into it. My 1/10 indoor 4wd is belt driven without a central diff.I might have to look into it. Thanks for the insight.

werner sline

those jumps need to be on youtube

starryalley

Just got my Typhon yesterday and the first impression is: it's so big compared to my mini-z 1/24 buggy!



I went out today on a concrete ground with a lot of dirts (used to be cement industry) on a 4s with default 14T and wow it's so much fun! Now it is extremely dirty.

So happy with this purchase! I am gonna find some place cleaner to run!

lolagt

After my complete rebuild I blew another inner hub bearing on the very same right front. The fast eddies bearing didn't go as far as the factory bearing. Ordered bearings from avid this time around.


Went to the track today and no one showed, summer thing I guess. I came home instead of paying to run alone.

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

Really enjoying my Typhon right now. On a slightly different subject, anybody know the difference between the Senton and Typhon? They look a lot alike. My son drives a Slash platinum and I've been on the fence for some time about jumping into the 4wd short course truck scene.

It seems to me that the Typhon is very similar yet a little wider than the Senton. Should I buy a Senton or just get another Typhon and put a truck body on it. Btw, my track doesn't have rules; we have guys running Slashes as 1/8th buggies. Just wondering if the little extra width would be an advantage and the direct parts fit when I put the Typhon away this winter and run SC inside. Thanks in advance for the info and suggestions

daedalus

iTrader: (4)

If you want some extra widths you can swap on the kraton hex/hubs (AR310592 + AR310591) and you're good to go (http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...214638&page=47). Parts are a direct swap.

The Senton is the same car, just different wheels/body/body posts.