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Question, is it normal to have central shaft's hoter then motor?

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Old 06-05-2014, 02:34 AM
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Default Question, is it normal to have central shaft's hoter then motor?

Question, is it normal to have central shaft's hoter then motor?


-At the motor


-At the Central shaft (cvd)

Is that normal to have higher temperature after a full pack in the central shaft (CVD) then the motor?

It's a xray 808e and with central diff removed there is no binding....
And if i squeeze trottlhe and let go the rc drives for more then 10seconds....

I wonder if that's the thing in 1/8 scale!

Let me know... as this is buggering me, as i am not new to RC but new to 1/8 scale!
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:51 AM
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It certainly is possible. The motor is designed to radiate heat for cooling where as the cvd is not. But first I would be sure of what I was measuring. I've never had much confidence with the temp guns using offset red dots. Then also temp your esc there by the cvd, perhaps its blowing a lot of heat to the cvd.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason
It certainly is possible. The motor is designed to radiate heat for cooling where as the cvd is not. But first I would be sure of what I was measuring. I've never had much confidence with the temp guns using offset red dots. Then also temp your esc there by the cvd, perhaps its blowing a lot of heat to the cvd.
Na man...

After bashing in grass when i touch by finger the Central CVD's are extremely hot, hotter then the motor or ESC, cause if it was the ESC she will it thermalshutdown.

I am afraid this is wearing my bulkheads very fast... cause i don't have a clue if that's normal or not!

The front is extremelly hot to!

I used to do speed runs on this, but latelly i acidently put my finger on the central cvd's after a full pack and YEAICKSSSSS.... whow....whata??

anyone seen this on their 1/8?
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:55 AM
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Its very common. The parts are metal on metal rubbing at a very, very high speed. A lot of stress I that area, where as the motor is supported by ball bearings. Do your best to keep it clean and lubed.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:57 AM
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As cheap as it is I would replace the bearings on the center diff and the input on the front / rear diff housing. Should be about $6-7 and will also mean a chance to look inside and check shims and wear.

Something else to remember is that a temp gun takes an average for the area it is pointed a and the farther back you are from the target the larger area is.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:01 AM
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The 808e aslo transfers a lot of heat to that area of the drive shaft becasue of the pinion design. Basically heat from the cvd itself as well as from the gear mesh inside the diff is what you are seeing , and it may be worth checking the mesh inside your diff. I never had to run shims on my 808 diff . If the mesh in the diff is too tight , you will get higher temps on the cvd by the bulkhead.

The 808e has a very different diff set up for those that have not had one .
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
Its very common. The parts are metal on metal rubbing at a very, very high speed. A lot of stress I that area, where as the motor is supported by ball bearings. Do your best to keep it clean and lubed.
During winter we run our 1/8 scale e buggies on indoor carpet tracks, and after 10-15 min of run time everything around the motor is so hot you cannot hold it. Centerdiff, but also the center driveshafts are hot.

All metal just "soaks" the heat from the motor, and all parts in direct link with the motor just gets heated up.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:32 AM
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Ok, i understand now that's normal for 1/8 RC's

I was worried i got someting wrong...cause i see no binding... and I let the trotthle go then rc goes for 10seconds free on asphalt!

One thing... in the end a "ceramic bearing" swap will make any good on this?
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by targetingxmod
One thing... in the end a "ceramic bearing" swap will make any good on this?
As I see it, ceramic bearings have a very slight edge on being smooth, but a huge handicap in being expensive.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:46 AM
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DONT use ceramic bearings in a 808e diff. If you have the 13x20x4 2 bearing set up for the pinion then you need to change those bearings every ten packs or so to avoid issues with them. Keeping the small pin inside the pinion gear fresh is also important. Vibration and the large lateral loads of this design degrade those bearings pretty fast , and using ceramic will not help one bit . Keep a sleeve of 1 $ avids and keep them fresh ...
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