Cerevo

also:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i79db158h5...pringChart.png

I went looking after you said that haha. Forgot about this. I guess the T5m and the SC5m both use the same shocks according to this they would have to.

Another thing I cannot figure out is ball diff rebuild kits.. I'd like to just buy one kit that had all I needed in it already instead of looking 10 different part numbers up and ordering all of them separately.

I have found that if I google "T5m diff rebuild" I get a lot of hits for the [ASC7677] kit. But I have yet to find a place that says that fits the T5m. Ebay does on occasion but I don't trust it.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

So on that chart they list as stock on T5M, so they're shipping with them? That would be sweet, mine didn't.

Same diff in all the 5 series. I would suggest the B Fast kits.
http://www.bfastrc.com/b-fast_pro_dr...ts_for_ae.html

This one:
*** NEW NEW NEW ***
Diff Rings (2), Carbide Diff Balls (14),
Caged Ceramic Thrust Balls with Grooved Races (1)
SAVE $ (if purchased separately)


B5 order B-FAST part # P66-2-CC $27.75

Cerevo

Not sure if they are shipping with the new springs now, or the old ones.
The old blue and old white springs are what my truck had on it but its a kit from last year. They may have updated the kits to the newer springs. I'm really not sure.


Thanks! What a cryptic site though lol wow. glad I asked about it. I will get that one, thanks again!

afm223

iTrader: (5)

I've been running the green front and white rear for a while now. They seem to be the trick on med-high bite clay. I've driven at Outback a couple of times with this setup and feel that the gray would be better for their high bite clay.

Jack302

iTrader: (22)

They look Nice...

ben42

iTrader: (7)

Hey just wondering if anyone has had probless with the plastic steering rack breaking after upgrading to aluminum bell cranks? Should I go back to plastic? I broke two of those and now two racks. I crash a lot.....

Cerevo

Good to know. I just bought an aluminum crank so I guess I should stock up on steering racks lol

draboyd19

iTrader: (30)

I have not broke anything on my truck yet, but in reading a lot of posts, I'd almost stick to the plastic steering parts. Seems like a lot of folks are bending the aluminium stuff, and appears you are having issues with the weakest part breaking without the full aluminum steering set.

I'd either go back to plastic or go all aluminium - cranks and housing and try and eliminate the weak part. Beware though that many folks have bent some of the aluminum stuff though, so plastic was be best case (and cost wise).

PS - we all crash so don't feel bad - practice makes perfect.

afm223

iTrader: (5)

I have broken the plastic rack with the Associated aluminum crank set. I replaced the rack with the Jconepts aluminum part, then went out and bent and cracked the Associated aluminum crank that has the ball stud. I just picked up the STRC steering set, the arms look to be much more robust than the Associated or JC steering arms.

I just picked up a SC5M and am going to stick with the stock plastic parts. I'll see how they hold up. FWIW I haven't broken a single steering part on my B5MFL.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Only things I have broke was a front arm and steering rack at same time during practice and a stadium truck smashed into the side of me during practice because he wasn't paying attention. And this past Saturday broke a rear camber link when a corner marshal was getting two others who crashed and got together jumped out on the track to get them without looking if anyone was coming and landed on my truck. I do crash a lot on my own but so far I have not broke anything on my truck it was others who have done the damages.

TravisS27

iTrader: (31)

I run the stock plastic bell cranks with an aluminum JConcepts rack. Haven't had a problem yet this season

Chuch

iTrader: (1)

Ok fellas, need some advice here, so go easy on me. Here is the deal.

In regards to shocks, I have a T4.2 FT I am about to sell with the nice aluminum bleed caps and ti nitride shafts. The PN's are different than the T5M kit according to sources, but I believe this is what I have (link below). This kit F/R is available however on the T5M page on Losi Parts house like they are compatible.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/ASC91315-p/asc91315.htm



On the flip side, the below V2 set up appears to be whats on my truck now.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/ASC91499-p/asc91499.htm

The question becomes, will the t4.2 set ups work on the t5m. The swap appears fine but are there any details I am missing? To be honest, the set on my T4.2 feel ten times better and with alum bleeds and better shafts appear to be a better set up. Anyone else given this any thought or have any advice? Its just bizaare that the shock bodies look exactly the same but the PN's have changed.

highenuff89

Almost done with my T5M build... last raced back in 1999! Anyways.. Need some battery recommendations. I will be racing in the mod class and have picked up a reedy 8.5. Wondering what battery you guys would recommend with that motor? Charger as well? All this lipo stuff is brand new to me :/
Thanks in advance..

Fastz28

iTrader: (7)

I used the shafts from my SC10.2 in my SC5M build. The caps thread on but I don't think they fit the new shock mounts. The bottom shock ball ends do not work with the new 3mm hardware, had to use the steel ones in the kit.

Jimdog

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered a t5m. it should be a nice upgrade over a rustler and strike fear into the eyes of the guys that I can already bet at the track. I have a few questions.

#1 I use an airtronics mt4 with telemetry. how hard is it going to be for me to set up an optical or magnetic rpm sensor on here?

#2 is there a rx box that I can use in this truck so I don't have to leave me receiver exposed?

#3 will this hold up to a castle 1410 3800kv motor?