Team Associated T5M Discussion
#1966
As for the hinge pin in the castor block. Only one of them is shorter?
Of course pics make all of this 1000 times easier to diagnose.
#1967
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
Yeah one of the caster block hinge pins is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the other. So I tried building it anyways and if I hold the assembled caster block together it simply falls out. Yeah I seen the rears are wider. And they go into the rear arms perfectly. But the front ones, are just to wide. They won't even go into the front 25 degree block. At first I was just gonna drill out the arms to fit the pins, but don't wanna drill out the 25 degree block and arms.
#1968
Yeah one of the caster block hinge pins is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the other. So I tried building it anyways and if I hold the assembled caster block together it simply falls out. Yeah I seen the rears are wider. And they go into the rear arms perfectly. But the front ones, are just to wide. They won't even go into the front 25 degree block. At first I was just gonna drill out the arms to fit the pins, but don't wanna drill out the 25 degree block and arms.
#1969
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
The ballstud isn't that big of a deal. I just used a pair of needle nose to secure it. So tonight I used a hinge pin off of my old 44.2 for the caster block, it doesn't fit great but it will do the job. Just a small amount of play. For the hinge pin on the arm I actually used a older hudy hex drive I had laying around. Just measured thr good pin and cut the old hex driver to correct length lol. Not gonna keep it in there. But at least it will work till I go back to the track to buy the correct ones. I have assembled all the way to getting the tranny in and so far no more issues
#1970
The ballstud isn't that big of a deal. I just used a pair of needle nose to secure it. So tonight I used a hinge pin off of my old 44.2 for the caster block, it doesn't fit great but it will do the job. Just a small amount of play. For the hinge pin on the arm I actually used a older hudy hex drive I had laying around. Just measured thr good pin and cut the old hex driver to correct length lol. Not gonna keep it in there. But at least it will work till I go back to the track to buy the correct ones. I have assembled all the way to getting the tranny in and so far no more issues
#1971
Has anyone tried to converted a B5M to A T5M ? I am guessing it will take shock towers shocks cvs turnbuckels body mount. I was thinking about getting a Plan B chassis and giving it a try.What do you think,
#1972
Turnbuckles
Fr/rr shocks
Body mounts
Front axles/hexes
Rear hexes
Fr/rr arms
Fr/rr towers
Body
Chassis cradle
Cva bones, you'll need the HD axles if you don't have them already
Add all that up... You could sell the B5 cheap and you'd end up with a brand new truck for much less money.
#1973
This is what I came up with
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.
Last edited by Scottysspeedsho; 07-16-2015 at 11:48 AM. Reason: add
#1974
This is what I came up with
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.
Just sell the b5 and get all new!
#1975
I think I will keep it make it my mod car and buy a new T5.You cant have too many cars after all.lol
#1976
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
off topic. Besides Associated, are there other companies that offers the rear aluminum hex? I've bought two pairs of the Associated ones and both pairs seem to either break the screw "1/8th past hand tight", or they slip out from the pin every time I remove the wheel. Am I doing something wrong here? I don't care about the added weight from plastic to aluminum (I keep rounding the plastic ones). Thanks in advance
#1978
To a point yes. Typically the trucks like a slightly different shock package and springs. Camber links are usually very close as well.