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Old 06-22-2015, 07:06 PM   #1921
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Thanks man! I ran the brass mounts on the buggy and didn't like the waythe car felt. Have you ran the truck without them to see if it is better? I found that the extra weight made the car loose on exit really bad. O ya, I assume the rear camber link mount is in the -2 position? Thanjs

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Old 06-22-2015, 09:04 PM   #1922
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Thanks man! I ran the brass mounts on the buggy and didn't like the waythe car felt. Have you ran the truck without them to see if it is better? I found that the extra weight made the car loose on exit really bad. O ya, I assume the rear camber link mount is in the -2 position? Thanjs

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For Outdoors I built the truck with the brass pieces. I ran the alum indoors but haven't swapped them out. I actually run both brass on the B5m too. I was on a super blown out track and it definitely helped. Yes the camber block is -2
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:19 AM   #1923
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Just got my T5M together. Did the first few rounds of practice and my rear is very loose. The only things I've done not stock are the aluminium steering and the brass front bulkhead. I'm thinking it might be the extra weight in the front but not real sure. Any ideas except taking the bulkhead off? I run on a high traction indoor clay track. We usually use dirt webs or electrons. This is the first time I've tried proline ions. Not sure if maybe it's the tires. There still not really broke in yet either. Just looking for things to check on. Also I just ordered all the parts for 3 gear. I've read that can make your car loose also. Is there any truth to that?
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:52 AM   #1924
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Just got my T5M together. Did the first few rounds of practice and my rear is very loose. The only things I've done not stock are the aluminium steering and the brass front bulkhead. I'm thinking it might be the extra weight in the front but not real sure. Any ideas except taking the bulkhead off? I run on a high traction indoor clay track. We usually use dirt webs or electrons. This is the first time I've tried proline ions. Not sure if maybe it's the tires. There still not really broke in yet either. Just looking for things to check on. Also I just ordered all the parts for 3 gear. I've read that can make your car loose also. Is there any truth to that?
The brass front bulkhead is too much weight for most conditions. I have tried it and it's excessive. Take it off. The 3 gear will free it up on power. If you're running stock use it for sure. For mod it's a feel and preference thing
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:04 PM   #1925
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Anybody running 13.5 what gearing is working best for you
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:53 PM   #1926
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Anybody running 13.5 what gearing is working best for you
I run 25-26 pinion with a 76t spur gear with a Schuur Speed 13.5
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:13 PM   #1927
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Running 76/24 with Trinity SS 13.5, no boost.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:55 PM   #1928
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?? what gearing for stock with a 3 gear?

thinking of putting a 12.5 rotor in too.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:31 AM   #1929
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?? what gearing for stock with a 3 gear?

thinking of putting a 12.5 rotor in too.
I run 25 or 26/76 with 17.5. I run 3 gear with both 17.5 and 13.5. Watch the temps.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:20 PM   #1930
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How does the T5M compare to the RT6. Short course is dying out here and Stadium truck is strong. I recently got a B5M still learning how to drive it. Stadium truck looks like they may be slightly easier to drive. I have never owned a Kyosho and I've heard good things about them besides the price. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:47 PM   #1931
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How does the T5M compare to the RT6. Short course is dying out here and Stadium truck is strong. I recently got a B5M still learning how to drive it. Stadium truck looks like they may be slightly easier to drive. I have never owned a Kyosho and I've heard good things about them besides the price. Thanks in advance.
I have a T5M and SC6 so I can kind of give you a close comparison. The 10th K cars are outdated. By that statement I mean non captured CVD pins, smaller ball studs without internal hexes, 82T maximum spur size, tie rods are a pain to adjust and they are having idler gear issues while running MM with mod motors. I will say however they are flat out fast on the track and respond very well to minor adjustments. They have the best plastic and shocks on the market. If money and maintenance time are not an issue get the RT6. The T5M can be as equally fast and since you already have a B5M, it's a no brainer since most spares are interchangeable.

I'm hoping with the release of the SC5M it will bring 2wd SC back
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:10 PM   #1932
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on the kyosho x gear gold springs are there buggy and stadium truck springs or are they the same size for both vehicles? like a osfa?
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:19 PM   #1933
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another quick question, on associated's site on the t5m set ups I noticed that they have the rear camber link at -2 but with 3mm of ballstud washers,couldn't you get the same effect with +2 with 1mm blastud washer? I'm confused here
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:03 PM   #1934
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another quick question, on associated's site on the t5m set ups I noticed that they have the rear camber link at -2 but with 3mm of ballstud washers,couldn't you get the same effect with +2 with 1mm blastud washer? I'm confused here
-2mm plus 3mm of washers is +1mm total
+2mm plus 1mm washer would be +3mm total
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:01 AM   #1935
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on the kyosho x gear gold springs are there buggy and stadium truck springs or are they the same size for both vehicles? like a osfa?
Use the ones intended for the Kyosho SC6.

Part #'s
XGS034 Kyosho Big Bore Rear Shock Spring Gold
XGS024 Kyosho Big Bore Front Shock Spring Gold

Note that Associated has their new springs on the way as well due out next month which are very similar to the kyosho springs. Talking with a local AE driver said he couldn't tell the difference from the Kyosho's to the new AE's which is a good thing.
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