c00lguy

Does the limiters go in between the dog bone and outdrive? Inside the cup? How long should the limiters be? I also have a dog bone on left side that looks like it will pop out. I've ran 3 packs through so far with no issues though. Do you recommend to still use limiters? The pro buggy drives so nice its crazy. Drives better then a lot of my other RC. Thanks

bubbaslash

iTrader: (1)

They go on the shock shaft, inside the shock body, below the piston. It may take a little trial and error, but start with the left side and get it to where both pins of the dogbone are safely within the outdrive cup. Then make a matching limiter for the right side.

mamdot91

Thanks for the valuable insight people!

mamdot91

Ok guys so my motor is defective:

The issue one of my cars was initially facing - the one with the extra noise, it turns out it was the motor all along.

Recently the sound got worse, and there was a clicking sound after every rotation or so.

So the motor, which I got not a few weeks ago, is now acting up.

My question now is what do I do? Does Castle have good customer service? Do they replace their products easily when asked by customers?

What should my go-to plan be now? Do I contact Castle? Do I contact towerhobbies? What to do? A new 1410 motor is gonna cost me 110 ... thats something I wouldnt want to pay for a lemon I was given by a company.

A new sct sidewinder combo costs 119. Why should I have to take a loss and pay 110 for just a new motor.

Please advise.

sniper34

Tower has Hobbico as the main supplier. I have delt with Hobbico several times with rc boat and plastic high end model kits. Each time they have been very helpful. After a servo part broke they sent me their part and two spares that I had requested. All at no charge. Granted these were not 110 dollar parts but their handling and communication was great. So i would say first contact Castle then Tower. Either should help you out with no probs, Maybe. It's worth a shot.

mamdot91

so im currrently in the process of getting a backup motor - options are tekin, hobbywing, lrp, leopard, rocket racing.

Just want a reliable motor to be honest .. any suggestions?

Also, how many turns should the motor be? is 13.5 good? Is that a certain kv? Or can that vary.

the other two rigs have the 1410 3800kv motors. The objective is to keep the performance as similar as possible, since that was the whole point of getting 3 identical kits.

Im using asiatees.com basically. If any of you have the time to give that website a look, you'll see what options I have for brushless motors. Advice would be appreciated as I dont know much about turns. I usually only look at kv rating.

RC Juice

iTrader: (140)

Turns and KV's are 2 different ways of naming the same thing, it's confusing. As a general rule, when you see a motor rated in turns, it is a 2-pole motor and a motor rated in KV's is a 4-pole motor. If you need a motor to closely match your Castle 1410 3800KV then you want a 540, 4-pole motor of similar KV.

This is a very similar motor to your Castle:

http://www.asiatees.com/display?Rock...id=72271&pid=1

mamdot91

Haha! Mr. JUICE! I just read this, but I ordered the exact same motor a day back .

BTW are rocket racing motors reliable? Is it an established brand? I havent really heard of them before.

RC Juice

iTrader: (140)

Yes, their motors are great and I think you'll be very pleased with the performance for the price.

TireGlue

iTrader: (4)

Just got the buggy version from tower and the back of the tranny is covered in diff oil. My diff only has a big o-ring inside the diff to close the cover, did i just get an old-stock version?

mamdot91

No this is the new version.

Diff oil is usually nothing to worry about ... just refill and make sure its properly sealed. You should be good to go.

mamdot91

Ok guys I need some help.

One of my dogbones has broken. Basically from the part where it connects to the stub-axle, where the pin is supposed to go in. Basically the pin-hole has broken... I have NO idea how ... the pin-hole has basically cracked and now no pin stays in for too long naturally.

I was on amain about to order a new set and noticed that all proline axle kits have bad rating and apparently one guy also said that they aren't durable.

This has gotten me skeptical about going for another pair, and I have started thinking if there are any other compatible driveshaft kits I can maybe use instead of these?

Obviously the objective here is to find a better solution; if there is a more durable and reliable driveshaft kit that is compatible (trialed and tested) could you guys kindly let me know?

However, if the proline protrak ARE actually reliable, and I experienced an isolated incident, DO let me know! Thanks. FYI, i have owned these for just under 5 months and this happened about a month back.

TireGlue

iTrader: (4)

ignore me, i just went back a page and found out i have the newer diff



thanks

LucasHood

The axles on my pro-2 are fine, (even thrashing on 3s, so far no problems) but I bought a protrac kit and axles for my brothers slash that sheared at the pin (for the hex) within 3 batteries. Proline asked for a pic and sent me a full set as a replacement. Not sure how long warranty is, even if there is one. Mine might have been considered a defect.

Long time lurker, first post.

sniper34

I use the Monster truck style rear axles. Spline type. Work fine so far.