Newb with stampede and issues
03-24-2014, 11:07 AM
#16
I bet if you ask them again , and say stampede 4x4 , they will tell you something different. For a 2wd , maybe that 4600 system will work , but in a 4x4 , no way . For a slash 4x4 they recomend a 3800 kv system or lower with the sv3. It will also be 2s only , no more 3s with that system. A stampede spinning those heavy tires and steel axles will be more work than a sv3 and 4600 will be able to handle , it will stay hot.
http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...5-0130-01L.pdf
from towers spec sheet.... Recommended for all 1/10 scale buggy and truggy applications that
weigh less than 5lbs (2.25kg)
My race trucks covered with carbon fiber and lightweight parts weigh 7 pounds , my pede is easily heavier than that.
03-24-2014, 05:26 PM
#17
Damn man thanks for the information I already ordered that combo from a shop I will see if I can change it out. I gave the guy every mod and told him. 4x4. What do you recommend?
03-24-2014, 05:44 PM
#18
Mamba max pro sct?
03-24-2014, 06:07 PM
#20
Lol, I just picked up a 3800 for my 4wd slash with 2.8 Talons. It's a beast. But you have to watch you gearing. Grass is a killer on cars, harrddd on the bl system
What's the rule?
Hot motor-cool esc is over geared/ faster geared for speed runs
Cool motor-hot esc is undergeared/ slower geared for pulling runs
Maximum idea temp for the motor is around 180 degrees, preferably cooler, too hot will will demagnetise the magnets, loss of power. And on Velinions will likely debond the armature glue after time after time of this. The magnets (rotor) will spin free on the shaft.
When you get you're new motor throw one of these on, just to buy some insurance on the heat aspect. About the only thing I have found they make that are decent lol. There are different colors.
iNTEGY Machined Clip-On Heatsink for 540/550 Size Motor w/ 36mm O.D.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/iNTEGY-Machi...item1e7c918bbd
What's the rule?
Hot motor-cool esc is over geared/ faster geared for speed runs
Cool motor-hot esc is undergeared/ slower geared for pulling runs
Maximum idea temp for the motor is around 180 degrees, preferably cooler, too hot will will demagnetise the magnets, loss of power. And on Velinions will likely debond the armature glue after time after time of this. The magnets (rotor) will spin free on the shaft.
When you get you're new motor throw one of these on, just to buy some insurance on the heat aspect. About the only thing I have found they make that are decent lol. There are different colors.
iNTEGY Machined Clip-On Heatsink for 540/550 Size Motor w/ 36mm O.D.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/iNTEGY-Machi...item1e7c918bbd
Last edited by spookie; 03-24-2014 at 06:17 PM.
03-24-2014, 06:22 PM
#21
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...-combo-for-sct. Choice 1 for me would be the 3400kv
Then max pro , 1415 and 3s only
Then max pro , 1415 and 3s only
03-24-2014, 06:27 PM
#22
Hot motor / cold esc = you can increase pinion size
Hot esc / cool motor = you reduce pinion size.
But it's not 100% . It's all a ballpark
I aim for 10 minutes at 170 or less. In the summer I may have to back off a tooth or two when it's really hot .
Hot esc / cool motor = you reduce pinion size.
But it's not 100% . It's all a ballpark
I aim for 10 minutes at 170 or less. In the summer I may have to back off a tooth or two when it's really hot .
03-24-2014, 06:32 PM
#23
Thanks for all the help guys I was looking at the mamba max pro sct with the Neu-Castle 1415 2400 kv motor. Thoughts? Also any gearing help would be great! Thanks for all the input and help just put up a new thread tried some flex seal spray on the body versus shoo goo and came out awesome!
03-24-2014, 06:37 PM
#24
Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller (esc), cool batteries = undergeared
Cool motor, hot controller (esc), hot batteries = overgeared
Warm motor, warm controller (esc), warm batteries = happy components
Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more
The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=299235
03-24-2014, 06:41 PM
#25
Thanks for all the help guys I was looking at the mamba max pro sct with the Neu-Castle 1415 2400 kv motor. Thoughts? Also any gearing help would be great! Thanks for all the input and help just put up a new thread tried some flex seal spray on the body versus shoo goo and came out awesome!
03-24-2014, 06:55 PM
#27
Hot motor-cool esc is over geared/ faster geared for speed runs, need smaller pinion
Cool motor-hot esc is undergeared/ slower geared for pulling runs. could use larger pinion
When you first start running a new truck you want to monitor temps, then everytime you change gearing you want to monitor temps. Until you get to know the gearing and the terrain you're running on.
Cool motor-hot esc is undergeared/ slower geared for pulling runs. could use larger pinion
When you first start running a new truck you want to monitor temps, then everytime you change gearing you want to monitor temps. Until you get to know the gearing and the terrain you're running on.
03-24-2014, 07:11 PM
#28
Hot motor / cold esc = you can increase pinion size wrong i think, actually over geared.
Hot esc / cool motor = you reduce pinion size.
But it's not 100% . It's all a ballpark
I aim for 10 minutes at 170 or less. In the summer I may have to back off a tooth or two when it's really hot .
Hot esc / cool motor = you reduce pinion size.
But it's not 100% . It's all a ballpark
I aim for 10 minutes at 170 or less. In the summer I may have to back off a tooth or two when it's really hot .
I had to go look to see if I was wrong lol. You described it better lol.
Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller (esc), cool batteries = under geared overgeared actually
Cool motor, hot controller (esc), hot batteries = overgearedundergeared
Warm motor, warm controller (esc), warm batteries = happy components
Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more
The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=299235
Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller (esc), cool batteries = under geared overgeared actually
Cool motor, hot controller (esc), hot batteries = overgearedundergeared
Warm motor, warm controller (esc), warm batteries = happy components
Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more
The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=299235
03-24-2014, 07:16 PM
#29
i have always done like this...
hot motor and cool to warm speedo is over geared, to fix your should reduce pinion tooth count.
cool motor and warm to hot speedo means under geared...or... the speedo is not sufficient to run the motor. if it was under geared the motor could be running fast and pulling a bunch of continuous current, and although this current might not be very powerful, the amount passing through the esc could lead to the buildup of heat. hence why in drifting you should pic and motor comfortable at high rpm for long periods, and a relatively high am esc.
usually though a hot esc means that the esc is just not powerful enough to run the motor.
hot motor and cool to warm speedo is over geared, to fix your should reduce pinion tooth count.
cool motor and warm to hot speedo means under geared...or... the speedo is not sufficient to run the motor. if it was under geared the motor could be running fast and pulling a bunch of continuous current, and although this current might not be very powerful, the amount passing through the esc could lead to the buildup of heat. hence why in drifting you should pic and motor comfortable at high rpm for long periods, and a relatively high am esc.
usually though a hot esc means that the esc is just not powerful enough to run the motor.
03-24-2014, 07:39 PM
#30
[QUOTE=ThePanda;13127364]i have always done like this...
hot motor and cool to warm speedo is over geared, to fix your should reduce pinion tooth count.
cool motor and warm to hot speedo means under geared...or... the speedo is not sufficient to run the motor. if it was under geared the motor could be running fast and pulling a bunch of continuous current, and although this current might not be very powerful, the amount passing through the esc could lead to the buildup of heat. hence why in drifting you should pic and motor comfortable at high rpm for long periods, and a relatively high am esc.
usually though a hot esc means that the esc is just not powerful enough to run the motor.[/QUO
We will have to agree to disagree on this . You do what works for you guys and I will keep on keeping on .
hot motor and cool to warm speedo is over geared, to fix your should reduce pinion tooth count.
cool motor and warm to hot speedo means under geared...or... the speedo is not sufficient to run the motor. if it was under geared the motor could be running fast and pulling a bunch of continuous current, and although this current might not be very powerful, the amount passing through the esc could lead to the buildup of heat. hence why in drifting you should pic and motor comfortable at high rpm for long periods, and a relatively high am esc.
usually though a hot esc means that the esc is just not powerful enough to run the motor.[/QUO
We will have to agree to disagree on this . You do what works for you guys and I will keep on keeping on .