AE Big Bores - Help this poor racer!
02-11-2014, 08:44 AM
#18
Typhoon
After you bleed & install the bleed screw ?
Pump the shock a few times before you check the rebound.
If you don't you will never know the true rebound.
After you mix the air into the oil the shock shaft will not pull back inside & should rebound 2 to 3m.
After you bleed & install the bleed screw ?
Pump the shock a few times before you check the rebound.
If you don't you will never know the true rebound.
After you mix the air into the oil the shock shaft will not pull back inside & should rebound 2 to 3m.
02-11-2014, 09:18 AM
#19
I am starting to lean toward the Avid springs as the root cause of my bounciness on the track though. I will swap those out and see how the car behaves.
02-11-2014, 09:35 AM
#20
Typhoon
Read the directions and follow to the letter.
If you have 17m rebound you did not bleed correctly and still had to much air or oil inside the shock.
Even better
Suggest get someone with experience to help you .
Read the directions and follow to the letter.
If you have 17m rebound you did not bleed correctly and still had to much air or oil inside the shock.
Even better
Suggest get someone with experience to help you .
02-11-2014, 09:43 AM
#21
I had a buddy show me around the Big Bores, and have watched and read just about everything there is on these shocks. I am somewhat familiar with them. I appreciate the help.
02-11-2014, 09:46 AM
#22
No, the shock pulls back in about 17mm. I usually have around 4mm of rebound. Again, I will have actual measurements next time.
I had a buddy show me around the Big Bores, and have watched and read just about everything there is on these shocks. I am somewhat familiar with them. I appreciate the help.
I had a buddy show me around the Big Bores, and have watched and read just about everything there is on these shocks. I am somewhat familiar with them. I appreciate the help.
Good luck with...
02-11-2014, 09:51 AM
#23
Hmmm, mine behave exactly as yours do right after I bleed them.
But within a couple of pumps of the shock shaft air gets inside the shock body to relieve the negative internal pressure, the oil/air emulsifies, and no more rebound is felt. This is how I have run my AE V1 BigBores.
But within a couple of pumps of the shock shaft air gets inside the shock body to relieve the negative internal pressure, the oil/air emulsifies, and no more rebound is felt. This is how I have run my AE V1 BigBores.
02-11-2014, 10:01 AM
#24
I know I fixed my air leak problem by taking the orings out. Or you can use that losi mod that people were talking about to eliminate the possibility of air going through. Correct me if I'm wrong. What piston size are you using?
02-11-2014, 10:33 AM
#25
Hey guys. I am newer to racing and I am really struggling with one issue that I can never get a decisive answer on. I have searched and searched, and the answers I have found are even more obscure than what the folks at the track are telling me.
When I build my Big Bore shocks I generally get 3-5mm of rebound. Also, when I pull the shaft OUT, it sucks about halfway back in. Sometimes more. Some say this is normal, some say you don't want it, but NOBODY has told me how to fill and bleed these to get no rebound. Most tuning guides for the b4.2 say to build the shock with no rebound. I have yet to do it successfully. My car seems bouncy on the track, and I would like to make sure my shocks are 100% accurate.
So how much "suction" should the shaft experience? (shaft pulling back in body)
How are you filling/bleeding to get no rebound?
Thanks guys.
When I build my Big Bore shocks I generally get 3-5mm of rebound. Also, when I pull the shaft OUT, it sucks about halfway back in. Sometimes more. Some say this is normal, some say you don't want it, but NOBODY has told me how to fill and bleed these to get no rebound. Most tuning guides for the b4.2 say to build the shock with no rebound. I have yet to do it successfully. My car seems bouncy on the track, and I would like to make sure my shocks are 100% accurate.
So how much "suction" should the shaft experience? (shaft pulling back in body)
How are you filling/bleeding to get no rebound?
Thanks guys.
02-11-2014, 11:06 AM
#26
How I build my emulsion shocks, hope this helps.
Step 1:
Push the shock shaft up 1/2 way into the shock body. Fill with shock oil to the rim. Slowly pull the shock shaft all the way down. The fill the rest of the shock with oil, again to the rim. SLOWLY push the shock shaft up 7/8th's of the way, do not let the piston uncover with oil. Then pull the shock shaft back down slowly. Fill with shock oil til you notice a slight "dome" shape of oil. Tighten the shock cap on to the shock with the bleeder screw tightened. (Repeat process so all 4 shocks are down at the same time.
Step 2 (easiest step of them all):
Let shocks sit for 10-20 minutes, I usually smoke a cig, watch a race, chit chat, etc. No real time frame but a minimum of 10 minutes is ideal.
Step 3:
Remove bleeder screw completely. SLOWLY push the shock shaft into the shock body getting excess oil out then tighten down the bleeder screw with the shock shaft still fully compressed in the shock body.
Step 4:
Unscrew bleeder screw 1/2 way, and slowly BUT consistantly pump the shock shaft 5-7 times. The last stroke push it up completely and tighten bleeder screw.
Step 5:
Clean with cleaning solvant and toothbrush, install spring cup and spring, and enjoy.
That is how I rebuild my shocks, have a shock stand but I dont use it much. I just lay the shocks down on my bench and walk away. Also I only hand tighten my shock caps, and never a leaking issue, you don't need expensive shock tools.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
Step 1:
Push the shock shaft up 1/2 way into the shock body. Fill with shock oil to the rim. Slowly pull the shock shaft all the way down. The fill the rest of the shock with oil, again to the rim. SLOWLY push the shock shaft up 7/8th's of the way, do not let the piston uncover with oil. Then pull the shock shaft back down slowly. Fill with shock oil til you notice a slight "dome" shape of oil. Tighten the shock cap on to the shock with the bleeder screw tightened. (Repeat process so all 4 shocks are down at the same time.
Step 2 (easiest step of them all):
Let shocks sit for 10-20 minutes, I usually smoke a cig, watch a race, chit chat, etc. No real time frame but a minimum of 10 minutes is ideal.
Step 3:
Remove bleeder screw completely. SLOWLY push the shock shaft into the shock body getting excess oil out then tighten down the bleeder screw with the shock shaft still fully compressed in the shock body.
Step 4:
Unscrew bleeder screw 1/2 way, and slowly BUT consistantly pump the shock shaft 5-7 times. The last stroke push it up completely and tighten bleeder screw.
Step 5:
Clean with cleaning solvant and toothbrush, install spring cup and spring, and enjoy.
That is how I rebuild my shocks, have a shock stand but I dont use it much. I just lay the shocks down on my bench and walk away. Also I only hand tighten my shock caps, and never a leaking issue, you don't need expensive shock tools.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
02-11-2014, 12:07 PM
#27
On kyosho shocks(which have basically the same finished build as ae bleeder screw shocks[suck in]) i was told that the "suck in" was a good thing, it would then pull just enough air in through the o rings to keep the shocks built perfectly the same with the same ammount of air. When i built my knosho shocks, thats exactly what happened, just enough air was sucked in after aome use to give them 0 rebound after a bit of use, and equal air inside.
02-11-2014, 01:10 PM
#30
How I build my emulsion shocks, hope this helps.
Step 1:
Push the shock shaft up 1/2 way into the shock body. Fill with shock oil to the rim. Slowly pull the shock shaft all the way down. The fill the rest of the shock with oil, again to the rim. SLOWLY push the shock shaft up 7/8th's of the way, do not let the piston uncover with oil. Then pull the shock shaft back down slowly. Fill with shock oil til you notice a slight "dome" shape of oil. Tighten the shock cap on to the shock with the bleeder screw tightened. (Repeat process so all 4 shocks are down at the same time.
Step 2 (easiest step of them all):
Let shocks sit for 10-20 minutes, I usually smoke a cig, watch a race, chit chat, etc. No real time frame but a minimum of 10 minutes is ideal.
Step 3:
Remove bleeder screw completely. SLOWLY push the shock shaft into the shock body getting excess oil out then tighten down the bleeder screw with the shock shaft still fully compressed in the shock body.
Step 4:
Unscrew bleeder screw 1/2 way, and slowly BUT consistantly pump the shock shaft 5-7 times. The last stroke push it up completely and tighten bleeder screw.
Step 5:
Clean with cleaning solvant and toothbrush, install spring cup and spring, and enjoy.
That is how I rebuild my shocks, have a shock stand but I dont use it much. I just lay the shocks down on my bench and walk away. Also I only hand tighten my shock caps, and never a leaking issue, you don't need expensive shock tools.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
Step 1:
Push the shock shaft up 1/2 way into the shock body. Fill with shock oil to the rim. Slowly pull the shock shaft all the way down. The fill the rest of the shock with oil, again to the rim. SLOWLY push the shock shaft up 7/8th's of the way, do not let the piston uncover with oil. Then pull the shock shaft back down slowly. Fill with shock oil til you notice a slight "dome" shape of oil. Tighten the shock cap on to the shock with the bleeder screw tightened. (Repeat process so all 4 shocks are down at the same time.
Step 2 (easiest step of them all):
Let shocks sit for 10-20 minutes, I usually smoke a cig, watch a race, chit chat, etc. No real time frame but a minimum of 10 minutes is ideal.
Step 3:
Remove bleeder screw completely. SLOWLY push the shock shaft into the shock body getting excess oil out then tighten down the bleeder screw with the shock shaft still fully compressed in the shock body.
Step 4:
Unscrew bleeder screw 1/2 way, and slowly BUT consistantly pump the shock shaft 5-7 times. The last stroke push it up completely and tighten bleeder screw.
Step 5:
Clean with cleaning solvant and toothbrush, install spring cup and spring, and enjoy.
That is how I rebuild my shocks, have a shock stand but I dont use it much. I just lay the shocks down on my bench and walk away. Also I only hand tighten my shock caps, and never a leaking issue, you don't need expensive shock tools.
Hope this helps,
Brandon