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Old 02-09-2014, 06:29 PM   #1
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Default What's a good total weight for 17.5 blink 2wd buggy class?

In grams. Try to put my rb6 on a diet. Looking for a good target weight!
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:36 PM   #2
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My INTECH Racing ER-12 is 1503g.

I would say 1500 would be the target since it is the minimum.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:37 PM   #3
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:37 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by VPProUSA View Post
My INTECH Racing ER-12 is 1503g.

I would say 1500 would be the target since it is the minimum.
Awesome! Thanks. Time to weight it and see where I can shed weight. Starting with a 155g lipo and mip puck system.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:43 PM   #5
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my b5 in race trim with shorty is 1508, my serpent was 1491 and I added 20 grams. I like the 1505-1515 range.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:56 PM   #6
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my b5 in race trim with shorty is 1508, my serpent was 1491 and I added 20 grams. I like the 1505-1515 range.
Gotcha! Thanks. My rb6 is on the heavy side now!
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:08 PM   #7
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With my nano tech shorty, I'm at 1571. With my Promatch I just got, I'm at 1529. With the puck system and maybe a few more mods, I should be right there.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:40 PM   #8
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something you indirectly talked about, rotating mass. I saw someone claims a top shaft saving 6g lowered motor temps by 10*, it would take waaaay more then that added to the chassis to make it go up by 10* You want the drivetrain as light as you can, its like putting lightweight rims on a real car, you can feel the difference. Static weight maters, but anything spinning is much more crucial IMO. The puck drive system is much more beneficial then switching from a saddle to shorty from a weight perspective (no accounting for handling) even though you save more weight with a shorty on the scale. I'll try weighing my dex210 all race prepped for Motorama (I went with a dimec chassis, stock slipper and lightweight outdrives/internal gears in the diff, couldn't get the aluminum axles rotating mass is the killer)
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:25 PM   #9
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as light as you don't get busted for...
or the rules allow
whichever you prefer
and yes, where possible the rotating mass can be a huge factor
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
something you indirectly talked about, rotating mass. I saw someone claims a top shaft saving 6g lowered motor temps by 10*, it would take waaaay more then that added to the chassis to make it go up by 10* You want the drivetrain as light as you can, its like putting lightweight rims on a real car, you can feel the difference. Static weight maters, but anything spinning is much more crucial IMO. The puck drive system is much more beneficial then switching from a saddle to shorty from a weight perspective (no accounting for handling) even though you save more weight with a shorty on the scale. I'll try weighing my dex210 all race prepped for Motorama (I went with a dimec chassis, stock slipper and lightweight outdrives/internal gears in the diff, couldn't get the aluminum axles rotating mass is the killer)
I totally understand and agree. However, I want weight as minimal as possible. I have the puck system. I just need to install is. But I am curios what's rye weight savings with the puck system
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I totally understand and agree. However, I want weight as minimal as possible. I have the puck system. I just need to install is. But I am curios what's rye weight savings with the puck system
How competitive are you trying to be? I think that will determine just how far you'd need to go, or where you should be at.

Few things you could look at doing if you haven't done it already.

RB6 lightweight chassis (25 grams lighter)

Ti screw kit (10-15 grams lighter)

RB6 LW body (no sure on weight savings, but it has to help somewhere)

AKA Typo tire/wheel set (40 grams lighter and a ton of less rotational mass) not currently ROAR legal though)

Ti ball studs/hinge pins (not sure on the weight savings, but it all adds up)

Those are some of the easier things you can go with out much effort.

If you go all in, weigh everything right down to the wires used. Make everything cut to length exactly. Find the lightest ESC/Motor (doesn't mean it'll be the fastest though) I think the Tekin RS2 and Schuur speed are two of the lightest. Switch to a half sized servo.

Ounces make pounds. If the car is under weight, you can always add the weight back in where you want/need it.
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:51 PM   #12
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That's what I'm looking for.

As of now, im at 1529 w/o puck installed. Not sure how much the puck is going to save. I do have TI screws. Not necessarily For the rb6, but I can replace as many as I can.

I also have an alum bulk head from exotek. I'll remove that and put stock bulk head. I think that should be enough.

Goal is 1500. To be fair, that's what everyone else is running

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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
How competitive are you trying to be? I think that will determine just how far you'd need to go, or where you should be at.

Few things you could look at doing if you haven't done it already.

RB6 lightweight chassis (25 grams lighter)

Ti screw kit (10-15 grams lighter)

RB6 LW body (no sure on weight savings, but it has to help somewhere)

AKA Typo tire/wheel set (40 grams lighter and a ton of less rotational mass) not currently ROAR legal though)

Ti ball studs/hinge pins (not sure on the weight savings, but it all adds up)

Those are some of the easier things you can go with out much effort.

If you go all in, weigh everything right down to the wires used. Make everything cut to length exactly. Find the lightest ESC/Motor (doesn't mean it'll be the fastest though) I think the Tekin RS2 and Schuur speed are two of the lightest. Switch to a half sized servo.

Ounces make pounds. If the car is under weight, you can always add the weight back in where you want/need it.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
That's what I'm looking for.

As of now, im at 1529 w/o puck installed. Not sure how much the puck is going to save. I do have TI screws. Not necessarily For the rb6, but I can replace as many as I can.

I also have an alum bulk head from exotek. I'll remove that and put stock bulk head. I think that should be enough.

Goal is 1500. To be fair, that's what everyone else is running
Glad it helped,

Also the Typo wheel/tire set is a full set front and rear. From what I have found, they are about 10 grams per tire/wheel lighter. I think the rotational mass savings is huge with them.

Some option alum parts are the same weight as the plastic parts, so weigh them out and see which one you need.

Paint the body with as little paint as you can get away with. Might be a bit see through if you hold it up to a light, but on the car, might look less see through.

Use ceramic bearings for less drag and a more efficient tranny/rolling car. Won't save weight, but will help make the most of the power you do have.

Like I said, being under weight isn't a bad thing, as you can always add weight back to be at what you want to be at. Be warned though, cutting weight can come back to bite you in the durability department.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:05 PM   #14
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Thanks again. I've already glued quite a few new tires. But next tire round. I'll look out for those wheels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Glad it helped,

Also the Typo wheel/tire set is a full set front and rear. From what I have found, they are about 10 grams per tire/wheel lighter. I think the rotational mass savings is huge with them.

Some option alum parts are the same weight as the plastic parts, so weigh them out and see which one you need.

Paint the body with as little paint as you can get away with. Might be a bit see through if you hold it up to a light, but on the car, might look less see through.

Use ceramic bearings for less drag and a more efficient tranny/rolling car. Won't save weight, but will help make the most of the power you do have.

Like I said, being under weight isn't a bad thing, as you can always add weight back to be at what you want to be at. Be warned though, cutting weight can come back to bite you in the durability department.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:15 PM   #15
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Thanks again. I've already glued quite a few new tires. But next tire round. I'll look out for those wheels.
Sure thing,

The typo are both wheels and tires as they are not compatible with the old style tires/wheels. So you have to have the tires/wheels/foams for the new Typo/Evo setup.

Also on the Ti screws,

The Kyosho kit has just about all you need for a rear motor car setup (minus the tranny screws), but is missing a few screw sizes for a MM setup (tranny screws, rear bulkhead/chassis screws are what I found so far. At 40 or less, it's not a bad Ti kit, even for Kyosho standards.

The only other option I have found, is either getting the full Lunsford Ti screw kit (they offer 2 to pick from, RM or MM, though the RM costs more), but they're a bit spendy, 129.99 for RM and 119.99 for MM if I remember right.

Or you get the Kyosho Ti screw kit and just get the screw sizes you need to finish off the car from Lunsford (Tranny screws and rear bulkhead/chassis screws if you run MM) not as cheap as just the Kyosho kit alone, but way cheaper than the full Lunsford kit(s).
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