R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-09-2014, 10:22 PM   #16
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

I purchased like $70 worth or TI screws from a hardware store sometime back. I sure I should have most or them

Also u can get the KYO TI screw kit on eBay doe like $28.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Sure thing,

The typo are both wheels and tires as they are not compatible with the old style tires/wheels. So you have to have the tires/wheels/foams for the new Typo/Evo setup.

Also on the Ti screws,

The Kyosho kit has just about all you need for a rear motor car setup (minus the tranny screws), but is missing a few screw sizes for a MM setup (tranny screws, rear bulkhead/chassis screws are what I found so far. At 40 or less, it's not a bad Ti kit, even for Kyosho standards.

The only other option I have found, is either getting the full Lunsford Ti screw kit (they offer 2 to pick from, RM or MM, though the RM costs more), but they're a bit spendy, 129.99 for RM and 119.99 for MM if I remember right.

Or you get the Kyosho Ti screw kit and just get the screw sizes you need to finish off the car from Lunsford (Tranny screws and rear bulkhead/chassis screws if you run MM) not as cheap as just the Kyosho kit alone, but way cheaper than the full Lunsford kit(s).
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2014, 10:39 PM   #17
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,158
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I purchased like $70 worth or TI screws from a hardware store sometime back. I sure I should have most or them

Also u can get the KYO TI screw kit on eBay doe like $28.
Yup saw that kit on the bay, for that price, it's a steal. Got two a while back for the ZX5 I got. LOL.


The Tranny crews are 3x35mm, doesn't seem to be a common size, but hopefully you have that size. The rear bulkhead/chassis ones I'm not sure on, haven't checked the size.

If you really want to go all crazy, you could take your tranny gears to a machine shop or a lathe and narrow them. Less resistance and lighter but not sure how much. While your at the shop or using a lathe, youcould also try to drill out the top shaft and idler gear shaft(s) to make them like a tube. Will make them lighter. I've though about doing that just for fun. Even thought about finding some carbon fiber tubes that would work for the idler gear shafts. Just haven't got around to trying that yet. LOL.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2014, 10:40 PM   #18
Tech Master
 
Lowe's48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

To me if your car is 30 grams heavier but the weight is in the right place you'll be faster because your car is balance. Weigh you car in all 4 corners and see how balance it is then loose or add weight accordingly.
__________________
Tekno Sct410.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,Pro4-4300kv,Hitec,LRP 8000/2s
Tekno SL.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,T8i-1950,Hitec,LRP 5000 4s
Weapon of choice : Airtronics M12
Home track : Coyote Hobbies,Ca
Lowe's48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 12:10 AM   #19
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,158
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
To me if your car is 30 grams heavier but the weight is in the right place you'll be faster because your car is balance. Weigh you car in all 4 corners and see how balance it is then loose or add weight accordingly.
I'd say a bit of a yes and no to a point. For sure there's a point to which you've gone too light for a number of reasons, durability being one of the big issues that could result. But being under weight gives the racer/driver the option of adding the weight back in right where they want it or need it to make weight. That, if done correctly, can be a huge help. Yet, could equally be a huge PITA if it's not right. For most mod classes it's almost a non issue, as any extra weight (without being excessive) isn't as noticeable for most. Stock or "Spec" tend to be a different animal, where an extra 30 grams (if one is trying to be at the absolute ultra competitive end) could make the different in accelerating out of the corner or off the line just a little bit faster than the next guy, or maybe making that one jump that no one else can. Sounds funny, but when the power is limited, it's all about weight and the over all efficiency of the power that is there.

The 4 scale thing can help, but I don't live and die by the numbers found on them. If you change the springs or preload on the shocks, sometimes the numbers differ, so I don't fully trust the numbers to a "T", but that's just me.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 12:28 AM   #20
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

Yep! It's about accelerating out of corners and making that jump the next man can't.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
I'd say a bit of a yes and no to a point. For sure there's a point to which you've gone too light for a number of reasons, durability being one of the big issues that could result. But being under weight gives the racer/driver the option of adding the weight back in right where they want it or need it to make weight. That, if done correctly, can be a huge help. Yet, could equally be a huge PITA if it's not right. For most mod classes it's almost a non issue, as any extra weight (without being excessive) isn't as noticeable for most. Stock or "Spec" tend to be a different animal, where an extra 30 grams (if one is trying to be at the absolute ultra competitive end) could make the different in accelerating out of the corner or off the line just a little bit faster than the next guy, or maybe making that one jump that no one else can. Sounds funny, but when the power is limited, it's all about weight and the over all efficiency of the power that is there.

The 4 scale thing can help, but I don't live and die by the numbers found on them. If you change the springs or preload on the shocks, sometimes the numbers differ, so I don't fully trust the numbers to a "T", but that's just me.
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 12:52 AM   #21
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 32
Default

Usually I am here with the purpose of learning, and still am in this area. However, I spent an extensive amount of time on this topic with my B4 around 2006 when the lightweight setups started with the use of lipos. Before that the nicd batteries were pretty much going to have you over the 1499 grams ROAR regulation no matter what.

When the lipos came, the first inclination was to add back the weight difference because the cars were designed and setup with a heavier weight in mind. In 2006 the AE team began discovering what was called a lightweight setup. This included adding weight only to the ROAR regulation (as I recall the setup sheets said they were at 1503). Well, we all know following setup sheets is trial and error at best sometimes and at the time, I thought as some have posted here - the lighter the better if your track doesnt enforce the ROAR regulations and you arent attending ROAR events, right? I soon discovered that really doesnt work. There is usually a sweet spot, so to speak, with each car as to how much and where weight should be added. I discovered adding none to my B4 and running around 1430 or so sent me down the path of never really getting a setup that would run on the track well. The cars are designed and tested at certain weights and run best at certain weights. I also discovered our cars are not truly designed with running 17.5 motors either. Weight matters much less in modified. Just as the B5 is designed and tested with the quite heavy Reedy square battery, that may very well be too much for those of us running stock.

I am sure someone well above my expertise will discover what works well, but for now, my answer to the OP is, the weight should most likely be right at the regulation. Again, most competitive companies design around these rules. I still today run my original B4 in stock class per the 2006 AE team light configuration at 1500 grams exactly. The real trick is not whether to add weight, its where. This is kind of trial and error, or understanding what the car needs. One post above suggested each wheel should be bearing the same amount of weight. I can tell you, in my experience, for 2wd buggy, this is absolutely untrue. These cars are designed to be rear heavy bias.
BHammer002 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 12:58 AM   #22
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,158
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Yep! It's about accelerating out of corners and making that jump the next man can't.
Yes sir. That's my thinking on it
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 01:17 AM   #23
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 55
Default

My TLR 22 2.0 is 1575. I'm running a Orion: r10 Pro, VST-Pro, WS 4000mAh shorty, Spektrum SR3520 micro receiver, and Spektrum S6040 servo. I have switched to Ti camber links and also have the MIP Pucks system installed. Is it just that TLR 22's are on the heavier side or what. I'd love to get my car down to 1500-1530. I have an aluminum front camber block which is heavy but necessary for me for any high speed crashes, I've already broken 2 stock ones. That's the only thing I can think of that added weight. Any tips to get it lighter? Roughly how much weight does the Ti screw set change & also Ti shock mounts. I lost 11grams switching to Ti Camber Links. I just can't see myself losing 50grams just by changing the screws.
TorcRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 07:31 AM   #24
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TorcRacing View Post
My TLR 22 2.0 is 1575. I'm running a Orion: r10 Pro, VST-Pro, WS 4000mAh shorty, Spektrum SR3520 micro receiver, and Spektrum S6040 servo. I have switched to Ti camber links and also have the MIP Pucks system installed. Is it just that TLR 22's are on the heavier side or what. I'd love to get my car down to 1500-1530. I have an aluminum front camber block which is heavy but necessary for me for any high speed crashes, I've already broken 2 stock ones. That's the only thing I can think of that added weight. Any tips to get it lighter? Roughly how much weight does the Ti screw set change & also Ti shock mounts. I lost 11grams switching to Ti Camber Links. I just can't see myself losing 50grams just by changing the screws.
Have you checked to see if there's a light weight body. Although I don't have one but kyosho has one that says it saves 14g. TI screws should make u loose another 8-10g. Then there's TI ball studs. Typically very expensive.

How much weight are your shorty packs? Mines is 155g from promatchracing.
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 12:57 PM   #25
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,158
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TorcRacing View Post
My TLR 22 2.0 is 1575. I'm running a Orion: r10 Pro, VST-Pro, WS 4000mAh shorty, Spektrum SR3520 micro receiver, and Spektrum S6040 servo. I have switched to Ti camber links and also have the MIP Pucks system installed. Is it just that TLR 22's are on the heavier side or what. I'd love to get my car down to 1500-1530. I have an aluminum front camber block which is heavy but necessary for me for any high speed crashes, I've already broken 2 stock ones. That's the only thing I can think of that added weight. Any tips to get it lighter? Roughly how much weight does the Ti screw set change & also Ti shock mounts. I lost 11grams switching to Ti Camber Links. I just can't see myself losing 50grams just by changing the screws.
From what I know, the Losi does seem to be a little on the heavy side, and I don't think the light weight option, like a lightweight chassis, are there. There's a few things I can think of though.

Since you're over in Roseville, do you run at LSR? Find out if you can run the AKA Typo/Evo wheels/tires. I haven't raced there, so I'm not sure where they stand on their use there.

A Ti screw kit should be around 10-15 grams lighter. I don't think Losi has a Ti screw kit. Lunsford does. You can part one together if you don't want to go with the Lusford kit. Duratrax has some Ti screws, and I think their pretty cheap to get. Don't know the quality on them though.

You're at 1575 now, put the Ti screws on, you should be at 1565 (going conservative here), put a full set of the AKA Typo tires/Evo wheels and you should be at 1525. That should put you pretty close to where you want to be.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 01:03 PM   #26
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

try a lighter servo. The little shorty servos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
From what I know, the Losi does seem to be a little on the heavy side, and I don't think the light weight option, like a lightweight chassis, are there. There's a few things I can think of though.

Since you're over in Roseville, do you run at LSR? Find out if you can run the AKA Typo/Evo wheels/tires. I haven't raced there, so I'm not sure where they stand on their use there.

A Ti screw kit should be around 10-15 grams lighter. I don't think Losi has a Ti screw kit. Lunsford does. You can part one together if you don't want to go with the Lusford kit. Duratrax has some Ti screws, and I think their pretty cheap to get. Don't know the quality on them though.

You're at 1575 now, put the Ti screws on, you should be at 1565 (going conservative here), put a full set of the AKA Typo tires/Evo wheels and you should be at 1525. That should put you pretty close to where you want to be.
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 01:27 PM   #27
Moderator
 
mxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Victorville, CA USA
Posts: 429
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TorcRacing View Post
My TLR 22 2.0 is 1575. I'm running a Orion: r10 Pro, VST-Pro, WS 4000mAh shorty, Spektrum SR3520 micro receiver, and Spektrum S6040 servo. I have switched to Ti camber links and also have the MIP Pucks system installed. Is it just that TLR 22's are on the heavier side or what. I'd love to get my car down to 1500-1530. I have an aluminum front camber block which is heavy but necessary for me for any high speed crashes, I've already broken 2 stock ones. That's the only thing I can think of that added weight. Any tips to get it lighter? Roughly how much weight does the Ti screw set change & also Ti shock mounts. I lost 11grams switching to Ti Camber Links. I just can't see myself losing 50grams just by changing the screws.
When I run stock I use the Protek 3000mah shorty that was originally designed for 1/10 pan cars. It is 18mm thick instead of 25.4mm and is 69grams lighter than a std shorty. I regularly recharge 1700mah back into it after a 7min main. My stock 22 2.0 weighs in at 1485g with std kit components (aluminum rear camber block, aluminum front pivot, and alum hexes) runing Novak Impulse on the chassis behind the battery, MIP puck system and ti screws and ball studs. Steel turnbuckles and shock mounts, and AKA Typos all around. I added Losi side pod weights to get it back to 1505g.
__________________
Brian Kinney
TLR Design Engineer
2016 Sponsors: Team Losi Racing, AKA Tires, Orion, Nitrotane, Horizon Hobbies, Fast RC Paint.
mxwrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 02:05 PM   #28
Tech Elite
 
Carranza76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Eastvale, Ca.
Posts: 2,079
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxwrench View Post
When I run stock I use the Protek 3000mah shorty that was originally designed for 1/10 pan cars. It is 18mm thick instead of 25.4mm and is 69grams lighter than a std shorty. I regularly recharge 1700mah back into it after a 7min main. My stock 22 2.0 weighs in at 1485g with std kit components (aluminum rear camber block, aluminum front pivot, and alum hexes) runing Novak Impulse on the chassis behind the battery, MIP puck system and ti screws and ball studs. Steel turnbuckles and shock mounts, and AKA Typos all around. I added Losi side pod weights to get it back to 1505g.
I run that same pack and its does wonders for stock! the punch is great also
__________________
Pegasus Raceway
IERC Raceway
TLR & Tekin are my main squeeze's!
Yokomo BD7
Carranza76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 02:06 PM   #29
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

the proteks are now 3200mah. they are 155g. Try the promatch. they are 3500mah @ 155g as well with 90C punch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxwrench View Post
When I run stock I use the Protek 3000mah shorty that was originally designed for 1/10 pan cars. It is 18mm thick instead of 25.4mm and is 69grams lighter than a std shorty. I regularly recharge 1700mah back into it after a 7min main. My stock 22 2.0 weighs in at 1485g with std kit components (aluminum rear camber block, aluminum front pivot, and alum hexes) runing Novak Impulse on the chassis behind the battery, MIP puck system and ti screws and ball studs. Steel turnbuckles and shock mounts, and AKA Typos all around. I added Losi side pod weights to get it back to 1505g.
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 10:47 AM   #30
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,231
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

Got my rb6 down to 1492g. Things I changed.

Went to 155g LIpo
Puck system
TI screw kit
Removed alum front block (25/30 deg)
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:18 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net