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Old 08-20-2005, 07:35 PM   #46
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I dunno...I been runnin this all summer and lemme tell ya...the thing is hacked bad, lol....Ill get a pic up in a minute...
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:42 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
I dunno...I been runnin this all summer and lemme tell ya...the thing is hacked bad, lol....Ill get a pic up in a minute...
Well contact them anyway, they have a revised chassis that's thicker in those places. Ask them about getting a new revised fuel tank too.
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:53 PM   #48
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:53 PM   #49
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:57 PM   #50
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You can prolly see how the chassis is ground so bad, the screws are practically melded into it. Also, if you look at #2, there's a "hole" or dent on the right side (left in the pic, but actually right if the car is upright) and that goes all the way through the other side. I have a trophy race Id like to run next Sunday too...so that kinda puts me in a bad spot...choices choices.....Thanks for the thought...I dunno what Ill do with it yet.
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Old 08-21-2005, 07:44 AM   #51
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The Hyper and Jammin are both made by different companies, please dont say the Ofna camp chose to send one not the other. DerekB's explanation made alot more sense. Using the Avenger was not very fair, GS Racing has said its a piece and the CL1 is better. It would have been better to exclude completly, as this will hurt CL1 sales, regardless of of the fact that they are different cars. People still think that Ofna actually manufacturers their cars, so, the RC public is quite easily influenced about things like this.

Now, what is needed is a truggy battle;

MSR
LSP-R
Mammoth ST (with center diff added, $49 at hobby people)
GS SUT CE
MSR 777
Matrix Truggy (when its released)
Mayhem ST
Jammin CRT
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Old 08-21-2005, 12:43 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by noobie
thats what everyone said about the sp1 and the ttr s3 when they first came out "oh its so fast" "it accelerates better than anything i ever driven" ... i wonder why there are so many near new s3 and sp1 for sale
Because the SP2 came out.I've heard that the SP2 is more planted in the rear and it is more forgiving.
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Old 08-21-2005, 01:12 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
You can prolly see how the chassis is ground so bad, the screws are practically melded into it. Also, if you look at #2, there's a "hole" or dent on the right side (left in the pic, but actually right if the car is upright) and that goes all the way through the other side. I have a trophy race Id like to run next Sunday too...so that kinda puts me in a bad spot...choices choices.....Thanks for the thought...I dunno what Ill do with it yet.
If the car is working well for you, just pick up a new box chassis off ebay or from amainhobbies. I'd still contact Ace to see if you can exchange for a newer chassis. TTR is coming out with their own flat chassis but I don't have any details on that.
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Old 08-21-2005, 04:53 PM   #54
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First off...it does seem to be running well. I raced today and would have won the A if my battery was fully charged before the start. My fastest lap ( of the 3 that I finished) was 41+ where the rest of the pack, the fastest lap was 44+.Second, my LHS owner is gonna try and see if he can hook me up through TTR...if not, I have already emailed Ace and Im waiting for a response. Also...on the note of a Truggy ( Stadium, Monster Truck..WHATEVER you wanna call em ) battle...let us not forget the TTR ST1 due out soon.
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Old 08-21-2005, 05:53 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
First off...it does seem to be running well. I raced today and would have won the A if my battery was fully charged before the start. My fastest lap ( of the 3 that I finished) was 41+ where the rest of the pack, the fastest lap was 44+.Second, my LHS owner is gonna try and see if he can hook me up through TTR...if not, I have already emailed Ace and Im waiting for a response. Also...on the note of a Truggy ( Stadium, Monster Truck..WHATEVER you wanna call em ) battle...let us not forget the TTR ST1 due out soon.
Richard Saxton just emailed me back about the tank so they should be in contact with you soon. Glad you're giving the car a chance.
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Old 08-21-2005, 07:51 PM   #56
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Dont get me wrong...I love the buggy...and the idea of running competitively with the "underdog"...but the problems I have been having are driving me nuts. I know most of the things that happen are likely my fault to begin with though, so Im trying to hang in there...
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Old 08-22-2005, 04:03 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
Dont get me wrong...I love the buggy...and the idea of running competitively with the "underdog"...but the problems I have been having are driving me nuts. I know most of the things that happen are likely my fault to begin with though, so Im trying to hang in there...
Check out this forum if you haven't already for support on the car:

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk/abalone/read?tmprsel=6175-$&conf=offroad7&csel=&item=21&isel=22-$&rsel=new

What trouble are you having besides the chassis? I think you said it cracked but then again, the pics you posted show that it was heavily worn so you must have gotten some good use out of it.
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:23 PM   #58
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Default Yeah....

I have gotten good use out of it, lol..I have been running it since roughly April this year. Somewhere on here, there is an S3 specific thread. I have posted there, the early problems. A quick review...
1) Lots of play in the rear arms when I first built it. Not on the hinge, but as if the arm was too short...I added a small washer and that helped eliminate the "space".
2) The stock 46t spur was not machined correctly. I could not get the bearing on it. I had to freeze the gear and heat the bearing to get it on. My mistake...I should have stopped and sent the gear in to either my LHS or Ace. Eventually, I seized that bearing.
3) Shocks leak bad on the bottom seal. I have very recently started reading SGrid and also a "fast" guy at my track recently showed me how to correctly bleed a shock. I've run two events ( practice, quals, and mains) on my front shocks since the last "correct" rebuild and they are still dry.
4) Diffs leaking from the outdrives. I filled them as per the manual, up to approx 80% full, but up until just recently never thought of using Green Slime on the Orings, as I always have for shocks. The Slime combined with info I gained through SGrid, seem to have helped. I had several tiny tiny Orings left over when I was done with the initial build. There is nothing in the manual about them and so I dumped em.Found out on SGrid, apparently they are supposed to go on the outdrives, in the little groove.This passed Sat, I totally rebuilt the buggy. I did the diffs with an overdose ( j/k ) of Slime and used the O-Rings. I havn't yet looked at them, but I will tonight. But judging by the feel, holding the center and spinning the tires...I think that this is the ticket. Also, I am ony filling them up to the cross pins now, instead odf the manual's suggested 80%.
5) I broke the bottom half of the right bell crank. No biggie, things will break. Or so I thought. Since upgrading to the Alum pieces, I have been blowing steering servos left and right. Initially, it was due to the Alum top n bottom binding on each other. To solve this, I used the stock plastic top with the bottom Alum. This seemed to work for a while, But I blew yet another yesterday. Now, one of the mag writers was at my LHS yesterday.....and after I told him what I was using for a servo...he started laughing ironically.In his words....KO servos aren't good for 1/8 nitro.Then, a little bit later, I was talking to someone else who said the exact same thing. So maybe that is the problem there. I was running a Futaba with no probs at all with the complete stock system. It was also the first in line of the servos that blew since switching to the Alum. To date...One Futaba 9451, two Hitec HS 925s, and the KO blew 3 times...all on the complete Alum system. And the KO also blew once (yesterday) on the combo system.
Ok...this is a highlight of probelms. Please dont judge me too harshly :P. I did state in an earlier post that most of the things that have gone wrong were my fault, all in the learning curve I guess. Anyway...that's it for now.
I will check the diffs and let you know if these lil Orings helped. One last note...Ace replied...the chassis is not warranted so I lose out, lol...I dont mind all in all.
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:37 PM   #59
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Looks like you've all dived right into the article and are arguing endlessly about it...which is excellent, since it keeps you all talking about XRC

It's inevitable that the guys who own the buggies that didn't finish 1st place will complain the most because they want to believe their car is the best. The great thing is that these are race cars, and no one should take it so seriously that you get upset over our results. I do think we ranked the cars fairly, and one read of our test should confirm that due to our test procedure.

Everyone has their own driving style, and it's up to you to find the car that matches yours the best. We spent hundreds of hours in prep and track time to help you reduce the amount of time it takes YOU to find the best car that will allow you to go the fastest. Use our data and article accordingly as you wish
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:58 PM   #60
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NitroOB4You - I would suggest using all the plastic servo saver parts. If you use aluminum with the plastic it will end up binding up and you will keep blowing servos.
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