Serpent Spyder SRX2 SCT Thread
#211
Umm... Bodies only crack if you crash. All ya gotta do is not crash. Lol. I'm running a Pro Line body currently until the stock body gets painted. The body mounts were really close to my old Durango, close enough to just flex the posts a mm or so.
#213
Tech Fanatic
Hey Laser Pimp why cant you wait on November $339. lol I think there will be a bunch of people very intrigued with the Spyder SrX 2
#214
#215
any one know when 2nd batch coming in? on the list for a-main. got credit coming will be a great deal..
#217
How many run theirs in the stock 17.5 class? What kind of gearing for a good start? Thinking maybe 76/25. I don't see a 75 spur and that's what I used in my Losi and Associated vehicles.
#218
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
I'm confident that the Serpent will be much better for my track (low traction, bumpy dirt), less weight, more flex, better weight distribution and most of the tuning options out of the box. The 22sct 2.0 is simply a revision, the srx-2 is next gen
#220
Tech Regular
iTrader: (40)
Figured I would give some thoughts on the build and initial runs. I am by no means a pro racer but have spent a lot of time tuning on my two 22scts over the last year.
Build pros: Straight forward, good pictures and bags layed out well. Fairly quick build.
Build cons: No tools or thread lock. Not a deal breaker but 4.5mm is not a tool everyone has on hand. As is a 3mm wrench for the turnbuckles. No shock tools. Had to use wrench with a towel. Diff silicone had leaked out and was gone. Luckily I had some otherwise would not have been able to finish the kit. I posted earlier about the shock oil coming with CST 500 but the setup sheet says PT400??? I used 32.5 AE Oil. No indication in the instructions to make sure all turnbuckles have notch facing left. This is how my 22 was so I did the same. Nice to have captured ends on the turnbuckles but those 4.5mm nuts are a pain. Should have a allen opening in the end. Screws under the rear shock tower. What were they thinking??!! You have to use an L allen to access them. Air guards not pre-drilled. Screws on air guards are not flush. Rear bumper ends rub on body (I used a dremel to cut them down).
OK I know this sounds like it was an awful build. It wasn't. But there is a LOT of improvement I think they could make.
First run (very bumpy, dusty track) - First put my tekin RS Gen2 and 17.5 (78/26) to get baseline to my 22. Air guards not installed and used TLR body fully cut out. OMG!!! It was as fast as my 22 on the first pack. Balanced, good traction, comparable steering. Unfortunately I noticed the steering links were all loose. USE THREAD LOCK ON ALL FOUR STEERING LINK SCREWS. Not sure why the manual doesn't show this, but it obviously needs it. 1st run cut short...
2nd run (still with 17.5) with painted serpent body (no cut outs) and air guards installed. Not very windy but with any wind under it was like a sail. Making lots of noise to. Pulled in after 2 laps. Realized noise likely coming from rubbing on rear bumper even though mounts were in good position with no wheel rubbing. Obviously this body needs some holes. Went back to TLR body. Awesome! Very happy. Really couldn't think of anything I wanted to change or adjust.
Decided I was going to put the Orion R10 and 13.5 to see how that would go. As I started to work on it, I noticed the rear wheels were making a squeaking noise when turned. Thought it was the diff so tore the back end apart. Come to find out it was the bearings inside the diff housing that was making some noise and bearing (same size) on the inside of the hubs making the rest. I wouldn't say they were shot, but not smooth and will need to be replaced. NOT good for 3 packs.
Overall I have a love hate relationship with this kit. Hopefully I can get a few things sorted and it will be smooth sailing.
Sorry for being long winded but I have spent a lot of time with this kit in a week and wanted to share in case some of this helps anyone out.
Build pros: Straight forward, good pictures and bags layed out well. Fairly quick build.
Build cons: No tools or thread lock. Not a deal breaker but 4.5mm is not a tool everyone has on hand. As is a 3mm wrench for the turnbuckles. No shock tools. Had to use wrench with a towel. Diff silicone had leaked out and was gone. Luckily I had some otherwise would not have been able to finish the kit. I posted earlier about the shock oil coming with CST 500 but the setup sheet says PT400??? I used 32.5 AE Oil. No indication in the instructions to make sure all turnbuckles have notch facing left. This is how my 22 was so I did the same. Nice to have captured ends on the turnbuckles but those 4.5mm nuts are a pain. Should have a allen opening in the end. Screws under the rear shock tower. What were they thinking??!! You have to use an L allen to access them. Air guards not pre-drilled. Screws on air guards are not flush. Rear bumper ends rub on body (I used a dremel to cut them down).
OK I know this sounds like it was an awful build. It wasn't. But there is a LOT of improvement I think they could make.
First run (very bumpy, dusty track) - First put my tekin RS Gen2 and 17.5 (78/26) to get baseline to my 22. Air guards not installed and used TLR body fully cut out. OMG!!! It was as fast as my 22 on the first pack. Balanced, good traction, comparable steering. Unfortunately I noticed the steering links were all loose. USE THREAD LOCK ON ALL FOUR STEERING LINK SCREWS. Not sure why the manual doesn't show this, but it obviously needs it. 1st run cut short...
2nd run (still with 17.5) with painted serpent body (no cut outs) and air guards installed. Not very windy but with any wind under it was like a sail. Making lots of noise to. Pulled in after 2 laps. Realized noise likely coming from rubbing on rear bumper even though mounts were in good position with no wheel rubbing. Obviously this body needs some holes. Went back to TLR body. Awesome! Very happy. Really couldn't think of anything I wanted to change or adjust.
Decided I was going to put the Orion R10 and 13.5 to see how that would go. As I started to work on it, I noticed the rear wheels were making a squeaking noise when turned. Thought it was the diff so tore the back end apart. Come to find out it was the bearings inside the diff housing that was making some noise and bearing (same size) on the inside of the hubs making the rest. I wouldn't say they were shot, but not smooth and will need to be replaced. NOT good for 3 packs.
Overall I have a love hate relationship with this kit. Hopefully I can get a few things sorted and it will be smooth sailing.
Sorry for being long winded but I have spent a lot of time with this kit in a week and wanted to share in case some of this helps anyone out.
#221
Tech Elite
iTrader: (110)
Yes the SC chassis is too long. What you can do is use the rm buggy chassis and mount the T-plate back exactly 8mm. This will leave a gap between the chassis and rear shock tower so you will need to fabricate a small plate to fasten them back together.The buggy wing mounts serve as rear body mounts. You can install T4.1/2 front body mounts on the front. Use the same rear motor guard as the rm buggy uses also. For wheels you can use T4.1/2 wheels.
#222
Depends on the track size, 76/25 is close to the FDR that I use for a 17.5 starting point on a new motor. What motor? That makes a big difference too.
#223
#224
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (1)
Looking for suggestions on a motor/ESC combo for this kit. I plan on running 17.5t stock class at my local track. Just getting back into the hobby and want to keep it fairly simple. Here is what I've found online.
hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-js5.html
What do you guys think of that combo?
hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-js5.html
What do you guys think of that combo?
#225