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Old 06-18-2015, 08:10 PM   #421
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Sorry, maybe my brain didn't boot up this morning, but moving shocks inward on the tower makes the springs more progressive and softens initial compression. To stiffen the front, he'd want to go out on the tower... what am I missing?
Yes but will smooth out the steering and slow it down. Going more vertical will be more edgy and react quicker.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:37 AM   #422
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Actually according to the Hudy tuning book a more vertical shock will give a softer feel. A more layed down shock is a stiffer feel. I noticed using a more layed down shock did slow steering a little. Something else to try is 1.7 pistons in the rear with 35wt oil. This speeds up the weight transfer to the rear tires in the corner. I use to keep my d/r at 75% but once I made the shock change I was able to run it at 100%.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:42 AM   #423
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I run the Losi black truck springs because the Serpent springs are not stiff enough. You will need the tall AE spring cup to do so. This helps tremendously with the front roll.
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Old 06-19-2015, 09:10 PM   #424
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
How are you guys getting the front end stiff enough? I have 4.2 springs, 1.4 Pistons, sway bar, and 40 wt oil in the front. It still rolls over really hard on the front. I race on tight, high bite outdoors and high bite indoor.

So what is the real issue? You say its rolling really hard? The assumption everyone seems to have made is that you mean body roll. Is that correct?

If so, I ask again, whats the real issue? If the car handles good, and you can go fast... whats the problem with body roll? I would think that if you are running high bite if you try to take out too much roll, you would end up with too much lateral force in the corners, which might cause you to spin out. But too much roll, and you start traction rolling. SOoOo...

If all you want to do is take roll out, why not add some limiters to the shocks?

If its too much steering, try shorter camber links in the front. Or use try the wider inserts in the rear hinge pins. (that takes out lots of roll) Could also try moving the battery back toward the rear. And how's your ride height, front and back? I like mine pretty level, maybe .5mm less in the rear at most. I also dropped to 1.5 anti squat.

Just my 2 cents, but I would not change your shocks(springs/oil) to effect steering or roll center. Most handling issues have more to do with your cars geometry, more so than its dampening ability. Shocks are for absorbing bumps and jumps in order to keep the tire in contact with the track surface.

Not trying to start any arguments, that's just the way I understand it.
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:33 PM   #425
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The Losi black springs are great in this truck Im using an ae +5 cup for more ride height adjustment. To stop the rolling your trying to reduce the amount of grip the front of the truck has. Whether it be a sway bar, stiffer spring, adding shock limiters (a whole bunch of options). Ride height is a really huge factor especially in Short Course I found myself slamming the truck to not roll on high bite. I tend to go as low as I can without bottoming out. I don't have the truck in front of me but I think I'm in the low 20s for ride height. This truck likes to wallow in the corners thanks to those gullwing style arms(Another reason the AE guys went back to the flat arms). But one you get the front end in check you just keep driving it harder.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:47 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by SikKustomz View Post
Pics well never figured that out ha. I'm now 100% sure my inserts are correct thanks. So the question is could my top shaft be bent and that's causing the idler gear to move? I don't have a lhs so I have to buy all my parts online hate to order just to wait another week to find out I have to wait another week haha. P.s if u have a lhs support them life with out one is not fun.
Just got on here looking to see if others are having the same problem as me and your posts look identical to mine on Facebook. I've stripped FIVE diff gears now.

The last one was my $55 gear diff..... And it was during a practice session the morning of the final round of a points series.

The only thing I haven't replaced is the transmission case itself. Even if I wanted to you can't get them anywhere right now.

And no, my slipper is not too tight.

I'm going to give it one more shot, ordering a couple diff gears tonight.

This is the only issue I've ever had with this truck but it is very frustrating.
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:58 PM   #427
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yeah, ive cooked a few, but i blamed mine on both having cut gears, and having the slipper to tight. Ive went through 2 idlers, 1 aluminum top shaft, and 1 diff gear.

just been running the slipper looser than id like, so far so good
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:26 AM   #428
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Default What pinion?

Can anyone give me a good starting point on what pinion to use with the srx2 sct....

I'm wanting to use an LRP flow works esc and LRP team works 7.5 motor....

I've the 86 tooth spur....

Thanks a lot!!!!
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:55 AM   #429
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Hey guys! If you are having diff gear stripping issues and have a gear diff, you can use the alu diff gear from the 4wd. 500448

There will also be an alu ball diff gear out in a couple weeks 500496.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:39 AM   #430
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Default Off-power steering brutal

Went to a indoor race on carpet last weekend. The car had some minor issues:

1. Broke the rear gearkase by touching the wooden wall behind a jump.
2. Broke the diff-outdrive (Geardiff) pin. (maybe caused by 1.)
3. Broke the left front arm. (touched the hard rails here)

and one big problem:

Car behaved neutral to understeer, but with off power turning it "snapped" into the corner and got a lot of oversteer to the end of the corner. So i took pirouettes some times at the end of the straight.
Reducing front caster did not help (there were some slow and narrow corners i had to fit the steering to)

Tires: Schumacher minipin yellow, Blue springs and dampers from buggy (for reduced ride hight)

What causes this behavior of the car? Does anyone had the same problems?
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:03 PM   #431
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I just picked up a Serpent Spyder SCT from a Serpent sponsored driver at the track I race at. I figure it should be quite the step up from my Traxxas Slash...

I cant wait to try it on the track next week.

guess I cant post pics yet.
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:10 AM   #432
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Originally Posted by jonage View Post
I just picked up a Serpent Spyder SCT from a Serpent sponsored driver at the track I race at. I figure it should be quite the step up from my Traxxas Slash...

I cant wait to try it on the track next week.

guess I cant post pics yet.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:38 PM   #433
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Picked up the rtr sct for my sons birthday. We've only took it for one outing to practice at the track(outdoor, loose dirt). Ran 3 battery's through it. My impression and problems I had:
So it would jump most times nicely but 4 or 5 times it would cut power momentarily before the jump.
Other times it would take the jump nicely but then trying the brake to bring the nose down it didn't work at all and truck would land on its rear.
When it did actually jump nice and respond from the trigger inputs mid air, if the landing was a bit hard (4-5 times) the throttle would then not work( I'd have steering and the ESC fan is still working) but I'd have no throttle unless I switched the truck off then back on.
The steering assembly worked its way looser as the day went on( that can be fixed, I'll pull it apart and maybe shim it up and some loctite).
The only positive (and it's a big one) was the truck took an absolute beating( cartwheels, roof landings, you name it) and not one thing broke. So I'm kinda 50/50 at the moment with this truck. I hope I can sort it out so my son can enter a race and not worry about not finishing.
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Old 07-30-2016, 04:23 PM   #434
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Default SRX-2 SC

Is this truck still being produced I have found a used truck for $75 is it worth that. Can you get parts.
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:58 PM   #435
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serpentamerica.com and amain both has some parts.
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