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Old 06-03-2015, 08:03 AM   #406
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I've heard of a lot of folks having this issue early on but have not had it myself. I've run mine on both m and h with no issue so far.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:44 PM   #407
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Originally Posted by SikKustomz View Post
I mad a few runs on my sc before the diff stripped out. I just installed a new one and happened again? All the inserts are the same any info plz??? Tranny is all stock
Most likely the slipper is too tight. Adjust so the front wheels just start to come off the ground.
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:58 PM   #408
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I had the same issue this past weekend. I set up the slipper and diff as per the manual, the blew the rear diff after about 8 min of running. Im 99% sure its my fault but I'm gonna switch to the gear diff. I have more experience with them anyways. but I will say that the truck felt really great until the diff went. its smooth. jumps great.

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Old 06-08-2015, 08:33 PM   #409
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Originally Posted by Phoenix82 View Post
I had the same issue this past weekend. I set up the slipper and diff as per the manual, the blew the rear diff after about 8 min of running. Im 99% sure its my fault but I'm gonna switch to the gear diff. I have more experience with them anyways. but I will say that the truck felt really great until the diff went. its smooth. jumps great.

Nick K
Tighten the diff a bit then blip the throttle while holding each wheel. Keep doing this until the spring is fully compressed back out about 1/8 turn.
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:57 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix82 View Post
I had the same issue this past weekend. I set up the slipper and diff as per the manual, the blew the rear diff after about 8 min of running. Im 99% sure its my fault but I'm gonna switch to the gear diff. I have more experience with them anyways. but I will say that the truck felt really great until the diff went. its smooth. jumps great.

Nick K
Just my 2 cents;

This is the procedure I use to tune the ball diff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKpW9nqOok4

Pre-reqs:
Make sure you sand your diff rings, or use bfast rings.
Use the best grease you can afford, it will save you money.

Note: ceramic balls are harder to properly tune than the carbide. And they are easier to screw up. I use the carbide, its not worth the extra money or effort to me.


1. Tighten slipper down to lock it in (use a used/spare spring, not your race one)
2. Hold one wheel (the one opposite the diff screw head)
3. while holding that wheel, find a way to lock up the spur gear (hold it)
4. with other hand try to turn the other wheel. (it should slip)
5. slowly (1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time) tighten diff to the point where it wont slip when using a "fair" amount of force, when you try to turn one wheel while holding the other one and the spur. (watch to make sure your slipper plate is not moving/slipping)
6. Once it wont slip, tighten it 1/2 a turn more.
7. Break in by running at/up to 25% throttle, while holding one wheel for 2-3 seconds each side, do this 5-10 times.
8. tighten diff 1/16 turn
9. re-do step 7
10. Re-do step 3 and 4, if any slip is detected, tight diff 1/16 turn, repeat step 7
11.Un-tighten your slipper spring (to put the good one back on) and re-tune the slipper.

This is for low/medium/high bite. (not sugar high bite, but pretty gritty)

For super high bite or carpet, the gear diff may be the way to go.

Have also heard that when running mod some like the gear diff better.

For Stock/17.5, I find a ball diff that is just tight enough not to slip makes the car rotate like a dream. And that applies to all 3, RM/MM/SC.

Once you find the sweet spot, you can adjust it as needed to the track by tightening or losing it 1/16 turn at a time, to adjust the cars rotation to the type of track you are running on. tighter = less rotation, loose = more rotation (to the point of slip)

One thing to be clear about all this, you do not ever want the diff to slip during normal operations. that's what the slipper clutch is for.... You just don't want it too tight, or the car wont rotate, and it will push bad on power, thru the corners.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Tighten the diff a bit then blip the throttle while holding each wheel. Keep doing this until the spring is fully compressed back out about 1/8 turn.
I found that to be far too tight for me... But again, I am running 17.5 stock, not a lot of power.
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Last edited by ClayMoreJosh; 06-09-2015 at 07:08 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:57 AM   #411
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Thanks for the info. we only run an open class here locally. I am running a 13.5 or a 10.5 depends on the track conditions for the day.

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Old 06-10-2015, 09:03 AM   #412
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Unless you run a gear diff, setting your slipper to pick up the front wheels on an SC will usually result in a quickly roached ball diff. The slipper on the SC needs to be set on the track. When properly built, broken in, and set, the Serpent diff is one of the best on the market.
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:12 PM   #413
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Originally Posted by Phoenix82 View Post
I had the same issue this past weekend. I set up the slipper and diff as per the manual, the blew the rear diff after about 8 min of running. Im 99% sure its my fault but I'm gonna switch to the gear diff. I have more experience with them anyways. but I will say that the truck felt really great until the diff went. its smooth. jumps great.

Nick K
Don't use the stock recommended 7k oil. way way too thick...

I went to 3k, want to try 1k. (again, 17.5 stock)

But I still like the ball diff better. I just think the car rotates better.

But I just got a 13.5 to try, we will see what I think after I run that.
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:55 AM   #414
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How are you guys getting the front end stiff enough? I have 4.2 springs, 1.4 Pistons, sway bar, and 40 wt oil in the front. It still rolls over really hard on the front. I race on tight, high bite outdoors and high bite indoor.

Thanks
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:38 AM   #415
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
How are you guys getting the front end stiff enough? I have 4.2 springs, 1.4 Pistons, sway bar, and 40 wt oil in the front. It still rolls over really hard on the front. I race on tight, high bite outdoors and high bite indoor.

Thanks
Go in on tower with shocks, keep going up in oil, run with less front tire.
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:26 AM   #416
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Originally Posted by ClayMoreJosh View Post
Don't use the stock recommended 7k oil. way way too thick...

I went to 3k, want to try 1k. (again, 17.5 stock)

But I still like the ball diff better. I just think the car rotates better.

But I just got a 13.5 to try, we will see what I think after I run that.
Ill have my new gear diff and parts to rebuild my ball diff next week. I was planning to start with 5k in the rear and see how it feels. Im also going to re-build my ball diff and see what happens. From what i have read thus far. breaking in the ball is the same as a 1/12 rear diff. so i should be good to go..

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Old 06-18-2015, 09:51 AM   #417
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
How are you guys getting the front end stiff enough? I have 4.2 springs, 1.4 Pistons, sway bar, and 40 wt oil in the front. It still rolls over really hard on the front. I race on tight, high bite outdoors and high bite indoor.

Thanks
If you run high bite I highly recommend the front sway bar kit. I made my own bars for it though, bounced between a 1.2mm and a 1.6mm if traction was really high.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:04 AM   #418
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My shocks are already all the way inward on top

Jonny, what did you make your sway bars out of?
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:32 PM   #419
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Go in on tower with shocks, keep going up in oil, run with less front tire.
Sorry, maybe my brain didn't boot up this morning, but moving shocks inward on the tower makes the springs more progressive and softens initial compression. To stiffen the front, he'd want to go out on the tower... what am I missing?
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:47 PM   #420
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
How are you guys getting the front end stiff enough? I have 4.2 springs, 1.4 Pistons, sway bar, and 40 wt oil in the front. It still rolls over really hard on the front. I race on tight, high bite outdoors and high bite indoor.

Thanks
I have personally never go over the Serpent Green Spring rate which is a 3.5 anymore. I sometimes run the front sway from serpent but I haven't ran it since Dec. I've tried stiffer front springs multiple times, even on very high bite, and it was always slower.

If you are looking for a bit more rear grip and more even roll, I highly suggest the buggy rear hubs. You have to use a rotary tool a bit on them to get the axles to fit but they are worth trying. The part number is 500114.
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