Eddie M

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, where can you buy a set of 12mm hex for the 503 front ?

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Might be worth trying out the new B44.3 12mm hexes when they come out here soon.. they might only need a slight mod to make them work

Headling

As per post above any bolt on clamping 12mm front/rear wheel hex for the 503??

Any links/part numbers appreciated

TeamMorgen.dk

Hi guys, Do you know where I get a 0 Degreed rear toe in to my Tamiya 503?

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Are you trying to get 0 deg total rear toe in on the 503?? or are you looking for the 0 deg rear hubs.?? If your trying to get 0 deg total that might be hard since the 503 has 3.3 deg built into the sus mounts and the minimum would be 2.3 deg

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

If you don't care how wide your front end will be there are a few that "might work"... but... your going to have a hard time getting any threads to tighten down the wheel nut I posted a few links earlier this year in this thread and part# for the 12mm hexs

Headling

Thanks JDM, well I have had a go and and got 22 rear hex's to fit which bolt on and I'm working on the fronts, the thin Team C T4 hex are looking good, I will report back on my findings

TeamMorgen.dk

Yes I´m looking for some 0 deg total rear toe in my 503 for carpet racing. I think the 3.3 sus mount is way too much toe-in. But 2.3 deg would be better. Do you know where to get it? its very difficult to find the parts to the car on the internet..

abiye

get the 1 deg alloy rear hubs and mount them backwards (left on right and vice versa), you will get -2.3 deg total rear toe.... I ran it at the worlds on my car and it works well...

http://www.tamiyausa.com/store/rc-tr...-upright-54246

WailinOnYa

iTrader: (4)

I believe the block is actually 3 deg toe and 3 deg antisquat! I could be wrong on this though, but I am pretty sure that is what the 3.3 stands for. It would seem awfully strange to have an odd measurement like that for toe, being that all manufacturers go in increments of 1 deg or .5 deg. So by putting the 1 degree rear hub carriers on the reverse side you would have 2 degrees of toe overall.

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, could anyone measure with calipers the total thickness of the stock 503 12mm rear hex hub? I am trying to get something that fits my 201 properly--because the axles neck down from 5mm od to 3/16" od (or @ 4.8mm) to originally match B4 axles/wheels the 5mm ID TLR 22 alloy clamping hubs don't actually "clamp" the 201 axle because they are exactly 5mm ID while the OD of the 201/503 axle is something like 4.8mm OD.
Not to mention the fact when using 22 or B4 alloy clamping hubs you have to grind the pin area to fit the bigger 2mm pin up from the 1/16" on the other cars.
Tamiya 4mm or 5mm 12mm clamping hubs will physically fit after grinding the 4mm ID "lip" off but again because they are a full 5mm ID they will not clamp the 201 axle which is a tick smaller OD.

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

Google this P/N: STR154s that is what I am running along with Losi 22-4 front wheels. The offset is the same and it eliminates the srtipped out Tamiya wheel hexes.

try STR154b, STR154bl, the letters designate color IE s = silver, b = blue, bl = black I have a set of silver and a set of blue.

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

Does any one have a link to the brass rear skid?

sickboy

iTrader: (75)

why not use the 503 hexes on your 201?

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

I managed to get a b44 narrow clamping hex to fit perfectly-lot of dremeling!! Its 5.20mm total width. I then add a 0.3mm shim to match the TLR 22 hex width of 5.50 (which everyone says is the right width for 201 once you get rid of the 1mm n13 shim) It works perfect but I actually just ordered the 503 hex. Tamiya USA looks like they just got them in stock. I am still curious though the width on it, as I won't have the 503 hex till the end of next week.