Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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You esc and radio should be set so that full throttle isn't until it's all the way back. This is probably your main issue if you're getting full throttle at half trigger.
Btw 100% is 100% way back in the day when I ran stock there was this same myth of setting your esc to to your radio at 100% then afterwards turning your throttle epa up to 150 to get more "power" this isn't true. That's an adjustment for using a servo for throttle on nitro cars. 100% is 100% the esc can't go farther than what it's max is. Recalibrate your radio to your esc.
Btw 100% is 100% way back in the day when I ran stock there was this same myth of setting your esc to to your radio at 100% then afterwards turning your throttle epa up to 150 to get more "power" this isn't true. That's an adjustment for using a servo for throttle on nitro cars. 100% is 100% the esc can't go farther than what it's max is. Recalibrate your radio to your esc.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I use DR on my brake changes. And I check the breaks during the practice laps and adjust as needed if the track is changing. It sounds like you need to make a tire change in the 3rd qual and the mains, "if" the car is good in the first 2 quals. It is a common thing to change tires as the night goes on tracks with change traction levels. Some guys have a second set of tires ready. they run a practice lap, if the tires are wrong, their pit buddy does a quick tire change to get the on the right tires. you can make this as complicated as you like. But it sounds like a tire issue to me.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
^^^ sounds like tire and throttle issue.
Most tracks I've been to, as you progress thru the day or night the track conditions do and can change. Like mentioned what worked earlier in the first round might not later. I usually have 2 or 3 sets of tires.
I just recently got into the 2w buggy class and one thing a lot of the guys at track told me was if your going to you your brakes a lot to turn them down so you don't lock up and spin out. The most I use my brakes for is mainly if it's a big double or step down to drop the nose a little.
Most tracks I've been to, as you progress thru the day or night the track conditions do and can change. Like mentioned what worked earlier in the first round might not later. I usually have 2 or 3 sets of tires.
I just recently got into the 2w buggy class and one thing a lot of the guys at track told me was if your going to you your brakes a lot to turn them down so you don't lock up and spin out. The most I use my brakes for is mainly if it's a big double or step down to drop the nose a little.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
This is a small handling issue... so I haven't mentioned it. I can easily drive around this, but it will also kick out a little if you get into the brakes hard at high speeds. I'm seeing this at the end of the straight away. You're steering right and in the brakes hard and its kicking the rear to the left then over steering into the right pipe. BUT this is if I drive it hard hard. I've been able to get around this by doing some braking with the wheels straight and by turning the brakes down some.. although between that and coming onto the straight away I know I'm loosing some time to everyone else. Other guys are able to get into power faster and on the brakes later. Then I'm running a cheapo 17.5 turn motor so Im getting burnt down this straight away lol.
I look at a result sheet... and guys 3-4 even 5 spots below me are running a faster fast lap than I am. So I know I'm leaving a lot on the table.
I look at a result sheet... and guys 3-4 even 5 spots below me are running a faster fast lap than I am. So I know I'm leaving a lot on the table.
I use DR on my brake changes. And I check the breaks during the practice laps and adjust as needed if the track is changing. It sounds like you need to make a tire change in the 3rd qual and the mains, "if" the car is good in the first 2 quals. It is a common thing to change tires as the night goes on tracks with change traction levels. Some guys have a second set of tires ready. they run a practice lap, if the tires are wrong, their pit buddy does a quick tire change to get the on the right tires. you can make this as complicated as you like. But it sounds like a tire issue to me.
JC bar flys seem to be the tire choice at this track.. should I find something with a larger pin or maybe just run a newer set of the same tire?? These are probably 40% pin. Which like I said... most of the time you couldn't ask for more out of the car. So maybe switch over to a newer set late in the day?
40% pin on a bar fly is pretty much slicks haha. Yes switch to a newer set. Indoor racing is a huge tire game of pin height, inserts and tire sauce. Like I said before, tires are EVERYTHING!
Even a newer set of Barflys can only run in very little dust. I would have a set of well broken in (50%-ish) dirtwebs.
I don't go indoor racing without an entire bag of tires around here.
Even a newer set of Barflys can only run in very little dust. I would have a set of well broken in (50%-ish) dirtwebs.
I don't go indoor racing without an entire bag of tires around here.
Tech Rookie
What is the best thing to do on this car to pickup some easy rear grip?? My local track is clay and I notice sometimes towards the end of the day the high traffic areas of the track will get dusty and the car starts to kick out suddenly if you aren't really careful. I moved the rear camber link out on the hub which seemed to help...but it still breaks loose at times. And when it goes...it goes quick and stuff the nose right into a pipe before you can do a thing..no talking her out of it.
Running 17.5 turn motor, stock setup except for the rear link and I'm running the 3 gear transmission included in the champions edition. Running the same tires 90% of the guys at this track run...
Otherwise I've been really happy with the car.
Running 17.5 turn motor, stock setup except for the rear link and I'm running the 3 gear transmission included in the champions edition. Running the same tires 90% of the guys at this track run...
Otherwise I've been really happy with the car.
40% pin on a bar fly is pretty much slicks haha. Yes switch to a newer set. Indoor racing is a huge tire game of pin height, inserts and tire sauce. Like I said before, tires are EVERYTHING!
Even a newer set of Barflys can only run in very little dust. I would have a set of well broken in (50%-ish) dirtwebs.
I don't go indoor racing without an entire bag of tires around here.
Even a newer set of Barflys can only run in very little dust. I would have a set of well broken in (50%-ish) dirtwebs.
I don't go indoor racing without an entire bag of tires around here.
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Last edited by JC8390; 03-01-2016 at 04:49 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
When Dirt webs are worn in the middle they are perfect. Use a good tire sauce , personally I love love love SXT 3.0
Bar Flys, Type O's when brand new are great tires for high bite, compacted clay. Sauce em up and run 2 or 3 laps and they should ready to go. We run those, ghost slick Dirt Webs or slicks at our track.
Run some new Dirt Webs that extra bite will most likely solve 90 pct of your problems. They should last a good amount of time, but you'll need to get them scrubbed in before they really start gripping good.
Like everything track time and experimenting there and talking to the local fast guys to see the setups and tires they run, will yield the best results.
Try a change run a few laps and make notes before making another change.
What track do you run?
Bar Flys, Type O's when brand new are great tires for high bite, compacted clay. Sauce em up and run 2 or 3 laps and they should ready to go. We run those, ghost slick Dirt Webs or slicks at our track.
Run some new Dirt Webs that extra bite will most likely solve 90 pct of your problems. They should last a good amount of time, but you'll need to get them scrubbed in before they really start gripping good.
Like everything track time and experimenting there and talking to the local fast guys to see the setups and tires they run, will yield the best results.
Try a change run a few laps and make notes before making another change.
What track do you run?
When Dirt webs are worn in the middle they are perfect. Use a good tire sauce , personally I love love love SXT 3.0
Bar Flys, Type O's when brand new are great tires for high bite, compacted clay. Sauce em up and run 2 or 3 laps and they should ready to go. We run those, ghost slick Dirt Webs or slicks at our track.
Run some new Dirt Webs that extra bite will most likely solve 90 pct of your problems. They should last a good amount of time, but you'll need to get them scrubbed in before they really start gripping good.
Like everything track time and experimenting there and talking to the local fast guys to see the setups and tires they run, will yield the best results.
Try a change run a few laps and make notes before making another change.
What track do you run?
Bar Flys, Type O's when brand new are great tires for high bite, compacted clay. Sauce em up and run 2 or 3 laps and they should ready to go. We run those, ghost slick Dirt Webs or slicks at our track.
Run some new Dirt Webs that extra bite will most likely solve 90 pct of your problems. They should last a good amount of time, but you'll need to get them scrubbed in before they really start gripping good.
Like everything track time and experimenting there and talking to the local fast guys to see the setups and tires they run, will yield the best results.
Try a change run a few laps and make notes before making another change.
What track do you run?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I thought your description of the track sounded familiar! I'm just getting started there. Inching my way up the novice class.
I'm hijacking this info too. Thanks!
I'm hijacking this info too. Thanks!
Hey guys, just getting back into RC and have been eyeing the B5M, without pouring through this massive thread I just have a few quick questions.
I run on a backyard track, pretty good size (yes, my neighbors hate me) and have a FT B4.1 that I love. It works great, basically stock setup outside of stiffer suspension. I'm toying with the idea of moving to a new 2wd buggy, but am wondering in the mid motor buggy's would be the best choice for an outdoor track? My B4.1 has been so good to me I almost feel bad considering a different brand. And since it has been so good, I wonder if upgrading is even needed. My B4.1 is using a lrp ESC with 9.5 turn motor, and it's perfect for my track. Not too much, but just enough oomph to clear the bigger jumps. The larger jumps being a 18' long triple, and a 14' double. The B4.1 has been amazing as far as reliability goes, all I have ever broken was a shock tower and front arm when I clipped a pipe wide open. It's wore like iron.
So yeah, long story short. Is a mid motor buggy a good idea for outdoors? For those running on larger tracks, have you seen an improvement over the B4.1, .2, worlds, ect? Or should I quit worrying about it and enjoy my B4.1?
Thanks!
I run on a backyard track, pretty good size (yes, my neighbors hate me) and have a FT B4.1 that I love. It works great, basically stock setup outside of stiffer suspension. I'm toying with the idea of moving to a new 2wd buggy, but am wondering in the mid motor buggy's would be the best choice for an outdoor track? My B4.1 has been so good to me I almost feel bad considering a different brand. And since it has been so good, I wonder if upgrading is even needed. My B4.1 is using a lrp ESC with 9.5 turn motor, and it's perfect for my track. Not too much, but just enough oomph to clear the bigger jumps. The larger jumps being a 18' long triple, and a 14' double. The B4.1 has been amazing as far as reliability goes, all I have ever broken was a shock tower and front arm when I clipped a pipe wide open. It's wore like iron.
So yeah, long story short. Is a mid motor buggy a good idea for outdoors? For those running on larger tracks, have you seen an improvement over the B4.1, .2, worlds, ect? Or should I quit worrying about it and enjoy my B4.1?
Thanks!