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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:05 PM
  #20791  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Thanks! And thanks for the reminder about the shrink tubing on the springs. I still need to break in the diff and set the camber as well. It is amazing how I would have likely had this done in a day or two back in the day when I was single with no kids. Married with kids, building a car takes an eternity

I am going to try to get to TRCR this Thursday if I can. I usually get there around 11 (when the track is a lot slicker than I would like) and spend the entire day there and leave right around the time the track has good bite in it. It isn't racing, but I get my fix!
11 is a good time if there are people there already running. The more people driving the faster the track dries. Monday and Wednesday mornings usually have a good turnout since practice is free on those days for club members.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:54 AM
  #20792  
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
Look at the B5m FL instruction manual.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...000_Manual.pdf
Thanks
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:20 AM
  #20793  
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Default Thanks but on last question Anti Squat !

Thanks for all the help guys I'm researching on anti squat and what I found seems like an argument . Which will add more rear traction during acceleration more or less anti squat?
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:36 AM
  #20794  
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Originally Posted by Mac126
Thanks for all the help guys I'm researching on anti squat and what I found seems like an argument . Which will add more rear traction during acceleration more or less anti squat?
Less. More anti squat means that your car resist more weight transfer from front to rear during acceleration (IOW car will squat less).

More accurately, less anti squat dont just add traction to rear. It also takes it away from front. -> Weight transfer is also traction transfer.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:00 AM
  #20795  
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Originally Posted by DustinEich
Anybody have a RTR weight on their Lite? I am at 1520.
Without a battery I'm at 1300g's. So with one of my batteries I am at 1510g rtr, and the other battery i'm at 1517g's.

Oh, and this is on a regular B5m, not a lite.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:29 AM
  #20796  
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Default More questions

What are the advantages or effects of using the B5rm front arms and tower. Guys have mentioned I'm running to much motor with a 7.5 I agree but track doesn't run a sportsman 13.5 or 17.5 stock class so I have to swim with the sharks
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:55 AM
  #20797  
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I run a 17.5 when I run mod.....you can run whatever motor you want in mod. run what you can handle. the rm rear arms gain rear traction. the flat front arms smooth out steering. your mileage may very
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:49 AM
  #20798  
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Originally Posted by Mac126
What are the advantages or effects of using the B5rm front arms and tower. Guys have mentioned I'm running to much motor with a 7.5 I agree but track doesn't run a sportsman 13.5 or 17.5 stock class so I have to swim with the sharks
I think the gull wings lower your roll center. The flat arms seem to make the car turn smoother and add stability. I have only found the gullwing arms to work well in situations where traction is really low.

If a 7.5 is too much then I'd suggest trying a 10.5 or 13.5. I doubt that you're truly going to get out motored unless you have a 75-100 ft straight or gigantic doubles or triples that you need immense thrust to get over. Most guys can drive a 17.5 car faster than anything else. Admitting that is tough to do but its the truth. Even a 10.5 in a buggy is too much for most guys.

Its funny, but I think I have it figured out. People think mod is actually faster because Pros and chassis sponsored guys don't run stock. The manufacturers don't pay contingency money for stock classes so people never see how hard a pro could rail a a stock car. The reason there is such a battle raging in stock classes these days is not because of super-chargers, hot batteries, hot motors, or light cars, rather its because cars have come so far that classes should no longer be based on equipment classification, but rather driver skill. I think fast guys are cherry picking and probably shouldn't be racing the classes they do and the guys that try really hard but can't make the A main just get overly butt hurt about it and complain about getting out motored or out lipo'd....whatever the excuse. More skilled drivers are always going to be faster.

Last edited by QDRHRSE; 05-15-2015 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:07 AM
  #20799  
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too much motor is way worse than too little. I am always faster and more consistent with a 17.5/13.5 in 2wd. Some layouts I could less or more motor, but overall, I just do better with slower motors. I run a 17.5/13.5 in mod buggy and a 10.5 in mod 4wd. Thinking you need a 7.5 in mod is silly.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:10 AM
  #20800  
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I agree the 7.5 came with car unfortunately track is popular with 1/8 so large straights huge jump section but I will buy a smaller motor thanks for opinions
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:12 AM
  #20801  
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mac, you can turn it down with the EPA also. drop it to like 85% and go from there
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:32 AM
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WC been reading forum for 8 hours thanks for all the great post on set ups will help me a lot once I get home from deployment
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:17 PM
  #20803  
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Originally Posted by Mac126
Thanks for all the help guys I'm researching on anti squat and what I found seems like an argument . Which will add more rear traction during acceleration more or less anti squat?
First is Hudy guide

Second is AE cheat sheets
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-screenshot_2015-05-15-23-15-16.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-screenshot_2015-05-15-23-14-10.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:15 AM
  #20804  
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Hello guys.
I searched a complete night for a solution before asking here :-)

I am new to 2wd offroad , there is a problem with my servo arm.
I can do whatever i won't , it always touches my servo body.
I removed the shim , i used the servoarm spacer ...
Servo is a Futaba S9550.

grtz Kevin
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-wp_20150515_002.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:12 AM
  #20805  
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Originally Posted by Kevin E.
Hello guys.
I searched a complete night for a solution before asking here :-)

I am new to 2wd offroad , there is a problem with my servo arm.
I can do whatever i won't , it always touches my servo body.
I removed the shim , i used the servoarm spacer ...
Servo is a Futaba S9550.

grtz Kevin
What type of clearance do you have when the servo horn is oriented as it would sit in the car? In the B5 cars I don't think the horn will rotate that far 'down' as you have it in the picture. The ballstud will actually be above the long side of the servo in normal operation.
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