deftones.jt@gma

iTrader: (26)

Not on clay tracks at least in my area

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Clean them always. I double up a blue shop towel and saturate it with cleaner and dump the new diff balls on it and with my finger on them, roll them around on the saturated towel. clean and they don't roll around uncontrollably. Rings are the same way, clean them. they usually have a thin coat of oil to prevent rust. need to remove that.

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

Well you make an adjustment when the car is doing something you don't like. What adjustment you make depend on what the car is doing (or not doing). Someone new usually has a hard time understanding when the car is not reacting to the inputs the way it should, so it might take you a while until you can feel that the car needs an adjustment. Then it is a learning process to make the right adjustment to make the car react how you want. Most people here make wholesale changes away from the track and wonder why their car is never consistent. One change at a time, with test laps before and after the change is the right way to do it.

Drifter_73

I always take a small container and put some denatured alcohol in it and put the balls in that, then take the rings and inspect them for which side is the flatest, next take some 500grit wet sandpaper on a flat surface glass works best and put the flatest side of the washer down then place the female drive down on it and run it in a figue 8 till you can see the washer getting dull on the entire side thats being sanded. This decks it perfectly flat and flush. Do this for both washer. Then build your diff as the directions say using tweezers to remove the balls from the alcohol bath. Make sure the sanded side of the washers are on the ball side.
Perfect smooth diff everytime.

Drifter_73

Also make sure to clean the washers with alcohol after decking them.

Drifter_73

Anyone have some chassis setup recommendations for carpet. Right now its box stock other then im running 37.5 front oil.

ktmrider89

Hey guys, my B5 will be in tomorrow and I was wondering what you guys have done to fix the tight ball cup problem? Any help would be appreciated.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

LOL, when I do a ball diff, I just wipe out the gear with a toothbrush and paper towel -- just get most of the old grease out. I rub the diff and drive balls in my fingers to get the grease off, wipe the outdrives and rings out, and stuff a rag down the outdrive where the thrust goes and get all the grease out of it. Then I wash my hands. Serious, I don't clean anything with cleaners of any sort. Just wipe it all down decent and make a best effort. then I sand the rings down to get rid of grooves with 320, then 600. Same with the thrust rings. Build with fresh lube and break in really well on the bench. My diffs are always super smooth, last, and my car is super dialed. I rarely have to ever replace balls, and pretty much never replace rings between buying new kits. I used to do all that jazz trying to clean things super clean, but the grease catches all the grime so just wipe the old grease off. I'd rather spend my time sanding the rings up with a good 600-800 grit fresh surface. That and break-in so you don't go out and grenade the diff on the first run is the key.

My $0.02 on that.

Wayne

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Most recent setup from doing droop tuning at Fastlane tonight. I found that 37.5 made my car feel really good in the front over the weekend, so today I watered the track, and found that it was better than 35 when the track was tacky, but the car still felt too twitchy. I noticed that nobody on the team has really ever ran 37.5 oil in the front, so I decided it must be front droop that was to blame. That it was. I ended up back at 20mm, really liked it, then went back to 35wt and the steering came back and was predictable and not twitchy. I also tried more and less rear droop and found that I preferred 26.75 in rear. Believe it or not, the difference between 26.5 and 26.75 in the rear was pretty apparent. It wasn't make or break, but you could tell, and one was definitely better than the other at our track.

I also have been doing some tire testing and returned to running ions instead of electron fronts because the ions are far more stable and predictable due to having denser tread at the edges and the nice stability rib on the sides.

I have given up completely on closed cell front foams on 2wd. They just don't fill up the tires or last. They fill up the tires when the tires are new, but after a few club races of traction compound, the tires expand enough that even new closed cell foam doesn't fill them up completely and they slide around. I've gone back to 2/3 - 3/4 of a rear open cell foam cut down and profiled by hand. Slightly softer than a closed cell front, but the entire tire fills up firm. Seriously feels so much better on the track and makes re-foaming fronts a breeze. They also last about the same as a closed cell for me. I've compared AKA and blue PL.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

If you use Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles, they are slightly shorter and your cups will not bind.

ktmrider89

That's good to hear because I already have the Ti Turnbuckles here, just waiting for the kit!

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

It is nice having r10.1, etc but none of it compares to driving. A bad to the bone B5m with An upside down driver gets a smack down by a great driver and tuner in a b4.

Gumwah

Too true , I just want to have a good start point to grow with.

slow_jun

iTrader: (14)

anyone used this yet? any significant benefit aside from the bling? they say its lightweight.

Disarm

iTrader: (3)

Help please! When running Aluminum Rear Hubs on B5M with B5 rear arms, what way should the 0 degree etch face? front or rear?

Thanks