Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
|
|||
Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
My post didn't have anything to so with what AE claims. I didn't even know what they claimed until you quoted them from Amain.
I'm not debating the durability of the hard parts, that's not an issue for me. I was simply pointing out the risk vs. reward when it comes to tuning the car and that there is a difference between the hard parts vs. stock when it comes to handling.
I've never put harder plastic and durable in the same sentence, so maybe AE needs to define what they mean by "durable"...Less prone to wear, maybe. Less likely to break, I doubt that. IMO
I'm not debating the durability of the hard parts, that's not an issue for me. I was simply pointing out the risk vs. reward when it comes to tuning the car and that there is a difference between the hard parts vs. stock when it comes to handling.
I've never put harder plastic and durable in the same sentence, so maybe AE needs to define what they mean by "durable"...Less prone to wear, maybe. Less likely to break, I doubt that. IMO
Last edited by Mizchief; 08-29-2014 at 02:50 PM.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
Ran better laps in a MM. Problem is my buddy sold it so i was unable to copy his setup. He did not build it either so he has no idea what was done to it besides the b5r arms. His was glued to the track. When i drove it, it was almost like cheating!!
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Risk, you might break more parts. Reward, you may see improved handling..
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Excellent Thanks. I think every driver who can fit one in their vehicles should run it and tell ROAR to stick it already. It's an excellent option for those whom can use it instead of saddle packs and there are already 2 cars that were designed with the intent of running them. ROAR really needs to step up their game.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
If your traction is literally 180 degrees different, then you most likely a) have a tire issue (not broken in? put on backwards?), or b) something binding causing a severe break in traction.
Tech Apprentice
Certainly is possible! But typically speaking, on a super loose / low traction track, better lap times will be had with RM.
If your traction is literally 180 degrees different, then you most likely a) have a tire issue (not broken in? put on backwards?), or b) something binding causing a severe break in traction.
If your traction is literally 180 degrees different, then you most likely a) have a tire issue (not broken in? put on backwards?), or b) something binding causing a severe break in traction.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Practice laps!
After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I haven't seen all the posts relating to the ball cup issue, but I've seen a few and the tips for fixing the issue. I wasn't trying to start a verbal fight or anything, I just have no time for sarcasm that's all.