137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-22-2014, 10:02 AM
#6841
My B5m build
Purchased already
Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks
Still have not purchase a kit yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I'm on stand by till we get more kits.
Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks
Still have not purchase a kit yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I'm on stand by till we get more kits.
03-22-2014, 10:10 AM
#6842
Purchased already
Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks
I gave not purchase a out yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I oxn stand by till we get more kits.
Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks
I gave not purchase a out yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I oxn stand by till we get more kits.
03-22-2014, 10:12 AM
#6843
Did the Ti screws and no alum hop ups for weight. LRP flow is a little hefty. Might try that Protech super light battery just to see if weight helps times in this car since that would get it down fast and easy test. Puck system will be cool for stock. My RM was at 1525, at races came in at 1498 on their scale, it is stupid light.
03-22-2014, 10:19 AM
#6844
03-22-2014, 10:41 AM
#6845
Tech Rookie
AE site will never show in stock until all Dealers/Hobby Shops have their orders filled.
As for no parts, I placed a backorder on tower for front shock tower, front & rear arms, front aluminum hex, front hex axle, rear aluminum hex and replacement ball links when I ordered my B5 buggy. Over the last 3 weeks Tower shipped all backorder items to me in two different boxes.
So Tower is getting parts, but with people placing backorders they will not show in stock items until those orders are filled.
03-22-2014, 10:56 AM
#6846
I built a b5m over the weekend (took about 5 hours total) and these are my suggestions:
1) use super fine synthetic steel wool pads (about $5) to polish the ball ends, shock shafts, and the front inner hinge pins (simply put the item into a dremel, spin it up and then polish with the pad for a few seconds)- this is especially true for the front inner hinge pins because the front kick up block is very tight.
2) in the gearbox, use 1 .1x10mm shim to take slop out of the diff, and 1 .1x5mm shim to take slop out of the top shaft (between the top shaft gear and the aluminum spacer)
3) use 3 .3x4mm shims to remove play from the rear arms. in my kit, the rear left arm had twice the play of the right, so I put 1 shim at the back of the left arm, and then 1 shim in front of both arms. this removed all play.
4) the turnbuckles are way too long. they used the same ones as the b4, but since the ball cups are longer, you go past the threaded area by quite a bit. I had some 43mm turnbuckles laying around and they worked perfectly. don't forget to put chapstick on the threads.
5) the diff went together fine, but the stock diff rings are not flat. I had to sand mine to get them flat.
6) if you are using a novak ballistic motor, the motor shaft hits the gear cover. I simply used a reamer to open a hole where the shaft made an indent in the cover.
7) take your time with the gear box screws, they are tight.
8) the stock wheel nuts are junk. when you go to take them off, 2 of the nylon inserts got jammed in the threads. i just used regular 4mm serrated nuts
9) the only part my kit was missing was one of the 3 hole plastic rear hub inserts (go opposite the blue aluminum one.) Aside from that, the 8 year old putting the box together did well.
Other than those issues, the build went fine. It really is a nice car, and I especially like the reasonable prices. Even though many will get the hopups as they are released, you really don't need them.
Good job team associated.
1) use super fine synthetic steel wool pads (about $5) to polish the ball ends, shock shafts, and the front inner hinge pins (simply put the item into a dremel, spin it up and then polish with the pad for a few seconds)- this is especially true for the front inner hinge pins because the front kick up block is very tight.
2) in the gearbox, use 1 .1x10mm shim to take slop out of the diff, and 1 .1x5mm shim to take slop out of the top shaft (between the top shaft gear and the aluminum spacer)
3) use 3 .3x4mm shims to remove play from the rear arms. in my kit, the rear left arm had twice the play of the right, so I put 1 shim at the back of the left arm, and then 1 shim in front of both arms. this removed all play.
4) the turnbuckles are way too long. they used the same ones as the b4, but since the ball cups are longer, you go past the threaded area by quite a bit. I had some 43mm turnbuckles laying around and they worked perfectly. don't forget to put chapstick on the threads.
5) the diff went together fine, but the stock diff rings are not flat. I had to sand mine to get them flat.
6) if you are using a novak ballistic motor, the motor shaft hits the gear cover. I simply used a reamer to open a hole where the shaft made an indent in the cover.
7) take your time with the gear box screws, they are tight.
8) the stock wheel nuts are junk. when you go to take them off, 2 of the nylon inserts got jammed in the threads. i just used regular 4mm serrated nuts
9) the only part my kit was missing was one of the 3 hole plastic rear hub inserts (go opposite the blue aluminum one.) Aside from that, the 8 year old putting the box together did well.
Other than those issues, the build went fine. It really is a nice car, and I especially like the reasonable prices. Even though many will get the hopups as they are released, you really don't need them.
Good job team associated.
03-22-2014, 11:46 AM
#6847
Damn
, what are you guys feeding those things? I'm 1528 as it came off the track last night, with the Orion R10! By the time the JC Stock Nationals start at OC_RC next month I expect to be under ROAR minimum, with a milled motor plate, aluminum top shaft, and a puck kit.
, what are you guys feeding those things? I'm 1528 as it came off the track last night, with the Orion R10! By the time the JC Stock Nationals start at OC_RC next month I expect to be under ROAR minimum, with a milled motor plate, aluminum top shaft, and a puck kit.
03-22-2014, 12:11 PM
#6849
So of note from my trip to San Diego and evening of racing at SDRC was that I finally experienced the on power push everyone has been complaining about. Clearly bumps and jumps is high bite as I've not had issue until now. I spoke with AE sponsored driver Tyler Hicks about his suggestions to get more on power steering and he did not suggest the Ackerman or trail adjustments everyone here seems to go to. Instead he suggested to go to the 2.5 deg rear toe plate only 1mm on the ball stud shims (rather than the stock 2mm I was running) and going to the lower rear tower height with my shorty forward and some weight up front. This did help and I think it would have been good if I had open cell foams up front. I only had two sets of wheels with me and he felt the set I had been racing on was shot (tires swelled and too much air gap) so the set I used had closed cells. I think the added turn in with open cells would have really brought it in...as it was I got pretty comfortable with it.
So was his approach just different and maybe colored by not having the same trail and Ackerman adjustment options on the B4.2? Just a different approach to tuning?
So was his approach just different and maybe colored by not having the same trail and Ackerman adjustment options on the B4.2? Just a different approach to tuning?
03-22-2014, 01:16 PM
#6852
CVA Build
Question on this build... I'm building the CVAs and the cross pins seems way too loose to me. Are they supposed to be the exact same size as the wheel hex pins? I'm wondering if they slipped me 4 wheel hex pins and skipped out on the cross pins altogether. If this is as intended, what's to keep the cross pin from just falling out? From what I see, nothing.
03-22-2014, 01:32 PM
#6853
Question on this build... I'm building the CVAs and the cross pins seems way too loose to me. Are they supposed to be the exact same size as the wheel hex pins? I'm wondering if they slipped me 4 wheel hex pins and skipped out on the cross pins altogether. If this is as intended, what's to keep the cross pin from just falling out? From what I see, nothing.
03-22-2014, 01:40 PM
#6854