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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 08-29-2014, 02:13 PM
  #13951  
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Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
i know this is probably not the answer you want to hear, but tracks where Calibers are the tire of choice are typically not midmotor tracks.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:17 PM
  #13953  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
My post didn't have anything to so with what AE claims. I didn't even know what they claimed until you quoted them from Amain.

I'm not debating the durability of the hard parts, that's not an issue for me. I was simply pointing out the risk vs. reward when it comes to tuning the car and that there is a difference between the hard parts vs. stock when it comes to handling.

I've never put harder plastic and durable in the same sentence, so maybe AE needs to define what they mean by "durable"...Less prone to wear, maybe. Less likely to break, I doubt that. IMO
Yea I wasn't trying to argue with you, just didn't know if they changed up the material or something for the hard stuff. I didn't see the same thing mentioned on AE's site, maybe some just some color Amain added. I suppose the results from the track are the real truth.

Last edited by Mizchief; 08-29-2014 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:21 PM
  #13954  
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Some MM diehards should be able to help. I can't because I wouldn't run a MM in those conditions. But that's just me.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:24 PM
  #13955  
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Dusty + Technical = RM track. Not that you wouldn't be able to get a MM car to work... even if you could, I doubt your laptimes would be as low as with a RM car on a track like that.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:35 PM
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Ran better laps in a MM. Problem is my buddy sold it so i was unable to copy his setup. He did not build it either so he has no idea what was done to it besides the b5r arms. His was glued to the track. When i drove it, it was almost like cheating!!
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Yea I wasn't trying to argue with you, just didn't know if they changed up the material or something for the hard stuff. I didn't see the same thing mentioned on AE's site, maybe some just some color AE added. I suppose the results from the track are the real truth.
I didn't take it that you were But my original response was to the comment "hard parts = easy to break" Which is likely true and I have doubts about any claims of them being more durable, other than possibly wear. Again risk vs. reward on a tuning part. And if a persons driving skills leave them worrying about braking parts can they notice the changes that come with the hard parts to begin with.

Risk, you might break more parts. Reward, you may see improved handling..
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:47 PM
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Excellent Thanks. I think every driver who can fit one in their vehicles should run it and tell ROAR to stick it already. It's an excellent option for those whom can use it instead of saddle packs and there are already 2 cars that were designed with the intent of running them. ROAR really needs to step up their game.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
Ran better laps in a MM. Problem is my buddy sold it so i was unable to copy his setup. He did not build it either so he has no idea what was done to it besides the b5r arms. His was glued to the track. When i drove it, it was almost like cheating!!
Certainly is possible! But typically speaking, on a super loose / low traction track, better lap times will be had with RM.

If your traction is literally 180 degrees different, then you most likely a) have a tire issue (not broken in? put on backwards?), or b) something binding causing a severe break in traction.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Certainly is possible! But typically speaking, on a super loose / low traction track, better lap times will be had with RM.

If your traction is literally 180 degrees different, then you most likely a) have a tire issue (not broken in? put on backwards?), or b) something binding causing a severe break in traction.
I was going to ask - what is the proper method for "breaking in" tires?
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hcopp
My comment was complete sarcasm.
Go be an ass somewhere else.....
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:33 PM
  #13962  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
I was going to ask - what is the proper method for "breaking in" tires?
Practice laps!

After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by xrayracer1
Go be an ass somewhere else.....
If you've been following the whole "ball cup" issue at all you would have understood his sarcasm and laughed it off. Relax, I doubt he was trying to be a donkey.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hcopp
I was going to ask - what is the proper method for "breaking in" tires?
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.

On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
If you've been following the whole "ball cup" issue at all you would have understood his sarcasm and laughed it off. Relax, I doubt he was trying to be a donkey.
I haven't seen all the posts relating to the ball cup issue, but I've seen a few and the tips for fixing the issue. I wasn't trying to start a verbal fight or anything, I just have no time for sarcasm that's all.
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