137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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08-17-2014, 05:33 PM
Okay I just bought the B5m 
I'll give a feedback here of how it compares to the Kf and 22 2.0 especially on multi-surface in Europe 
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I'll give a feedback here of how it compares to the Kf and 22 2.0 especially on multi-surface in Europe .
08-17-2014, 05:41 PM
Are these the correct turnbuckles for the B5 ?
http://www.amain.com/JConcepts-B4-Ge...-Set-6/p254966
http://www.amain.com/JConcepts-B4-Ge...-Set-6/p254966
08-17-2014, 05:42 PM
08-17-2014, 05:48 PM
Are these the correct turnbuckles for the B5 ?
http://www.amain.com/JConcepts-B4-Ge...-Set-6/p254966
http://www.amain.com/JConcepts-B4-Ge...-Set-6/p254966
08-17-2014, 08:27 PM
I found some at Hobbytown, KS Metals sells sheets of different sizes and thicknesses.
http://ksmetals.com/30.html
http://ksmetals.com/30.html
08-17-2014, 09:01 PM
08-17-2014, 09:07 PM
Chalk up another win with B5 with basically box stock setup over B5M. LRH, loamy wet clay switched cars after B5M was swapping rest ends. Moved to B5 with typos, 2X1.6 flat pistons 32.5/30. Stuck to the track, beat out fast mid-motor guys who were pushing all over the place no matter what mods, or clay setups posted anywhere.
08-17-2014, 09:19 PM
I am giving the MM experiment a break. I got my car good, but it is just not what I want on the bumps and jumps. And for 17.5 the lighter and more plush RM car feel overall most consistent. On, the flowing parts of the track the MM was nice. But on timed jump sections or short run up jumps it never felt "right". The Rm turns like a pig, but at least I always know what it is going to do. The MM liked to "surprise" me.
08-17-2014, 09:21 PM
08-17-2014, 10:43 PM
Tech Adept
Using mid tower & flat front arm with inside hole, the
shocks are at the same angle as using rear motor tower middle hole.
Difference is the shocks are lower a couple mm with mid tower & inside tower hole.
Lower makes for lower CG on front .
Makes for smoother steering.
Sorry never seen that graph.
I just thought maybe you were interested.
shocks are at the same angle as using rear motor tower middle hole.
Difference is the shocks are lower a couple mm with mid tower & inside tower hole.
Lower makes for lower CG on front .
Makes for smoother steering.
Sorry never seen that graph.
I just thought maybe you were interested.
08-18-2014, 12:58 AM
For those having ball cup binding issues. Go grab some silicone spray from NAPA. It comes in a blue can And it is a NAPA house brand I believe. Spray into the ball cups and thread them in. I used this when I built my last kit And the turnbuckles adjust like butter.
08-18-2014, 06:50 AM
Pellfefa
Only for mid tower & flat arms.
Use inside hole on tower & outside hole on arm.
Only for mid tower & flat arms.
Use inside hole on tower & outside hole on arm.
08-18-2014, 06:57 AM
Which Ti rod are you using ?
08-18-2014, 08:13 AM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (5)
i just built my b5 (sorta my 1st car) last weekend and was finally able to get it running this past weekend and i had a few questions about replacement parts.
typically is this the order of 'better' parts?
brass > aluminum > plastic ? i use the term 'better' loosely, obviously. i gather that bronze is heavier on the car than the aluminum but is it more durable? i see i already need to replace my front hinge pin brace, haha.
aside from that, i actually cracked my reedy square battery pack:
is that normal? this was only on my 4th run so that sorta sucks. is that caused by having the battery too tight?
it's weird 'cause nothing else truly broke. bent a turnbuckle a little bit, cracked the battery, and cracked the front hinge pin. was plenty of fun though!
typically is this the order of 'better' parts?
brass > aluminum > plastic ? i use the term 'better' loosely, obviously. i gather that bronze is heavier on the car than the aluminum but is it more durable? i see i already need to replace my front hinge pin brace, haha.
aside from that, i actually cracked my reedy square battery pack:
is that normal? this was only on my 4th run so that sorta sucks. is that caused by having the battery too tight?
it's weird 'cause nothing else truly broke. bent a turnbuckle a little bit, cracked the battery, and cracked the front hinge pin. was plenty of fun though!
Last edited by alphaclass16; 08-18-2014 at 08:15 AM. Reason: added stuff
08-18-2014, 08:16 AM
i just built my b5 (sorta my 1st car) last weekend and was finally able to get it running this past weekend and i had a few questions about replacement parts.
typically is this the order of 'better' parts?
brass > aluminum > plastic ? i use the term 'better' loosely, obviously. i gather that bronze is heavier on the car than the aluminum but is it more durable? i see i already need to replace my front hinge pin brace, haha.
aside from that, i actually cracked my reedy square battery pack:
is that normal? this was only on my 4th run so that sorta sucks. is that caused by having the battery too tight?
it's weird 'cause nothing else truly broke. bent a turnbuckle a little bit, cracked the battery, and cracked the front hinge pin. was plenty of fun though!
typically is this the order of 'better' parts?
brass > aluminum > plastic ? i use the term 'better' loosely, obviously. i gather that bronze is heavier on the car than the aluminum but is it more durable? i see i already need to replace my front hinge pin brace, haha.
aside from that, i actually cracked my reedy square battery pack:
is that normal? this was only on my 4th run so that sorta sucks. is that caused by having the battery too tight?
it's weird 'cause nothing else truly broke. bent a turnbuckle a little bit, cracked the battery, and cracked the front hinge pin. was plenty of fun though!