rickster

hey wildcat.... here is what the springs and oils do... pistons provide the pack by controlling the amount of oil going threw the holes.. oil is your viscosity to determine how fast the different wts go threw the pistons and springs control the pressure to the arms and wheels from contact points.... thus a softer spring provides less pressure or transfer to the car.. you can alter that pressure slightly by changing positions to where the shock connects... standing it more upright will change leverage points and quicken the feel, laying it down more will soften it transferring that energy slower but also offer a more progressive feel.. think of the arms of the car as a prybar.. its easy to move when you have the more of the prybar out to hold then it is having what your trying to move right where your holding.. the shock position on arm is the same way.. inside hole moves easier.. outside harder.

so softer springs will transfer the energy a little slower and the thicker oil will slow the rotation just a bit too.

sorry for my description on stuff...lol still waking up...

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I get it. I plan to play with that next time out. Also, we race indoors, so the temp is probably around 78 deg. I think you asked about temps. I made a TON of changes last week before last night racing. Basically, I wanted to "reset" the car and try some new stuff. I was not liking the 1.4's up front. They were tapered. I tried light springs before with the 1.4f and 1.6 rear. I went green/green, but it was too much weight shift. It was like driving a slash, lol. Last night was my first time with the 1.6's f/r. I started with 32.5/30 oils, but it didnt have enough pack. So I went up to 35/32.5. The pack felt much better. And yeah, a stiffer car will have more aggressive response. I am going to a lower bite track wednesday night and I plan to drop the springs down in stiffness. I think you said the longer links slowed down the car also. It was explained to me that "long is lazy" as a way to remember it.

rickster

hi.. ya the 1.4 pistons offer quicker transfer... so I bet it rotated on a dime. and yes on the links.. it gives a little more traction and part of the reason is what I said before.. longer is lazier but that's not a bad thing when your car is super aggressive. its like giving meds to a kid a ADD... lol it calms it down. finding that balance to what you like may take a few changes in setup but once you find it you will be amazed how the car can work.
also tires play a whole role.. ask tyler what he runs and what he does to the tires.. hes a good kid and will help for sure.

Andrew Selvaggi

iTrader: (10)

surprised no one's mentioned anything about the diff. Just my opinion, it's displaying the characteristics of a diff that's not tight enough. But it's really hard to tell from video, unless you're actually there it's hard to give advice.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the MM diff is pretty tight. If I go much tighter, the spring will be full collapsed. This was as tight as I could get it without making it gritty. My 13.5 was able to stand the car up from a stand still and not bark the diff, lol. The RM car has a looser diff. But, I will ask someone else to look at my diff settings. Always good to get another pair of eyes.

MPrincip

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone tried this mod on there B5M yet racing Modified? Jst curious on everyones opinion.

As I was thinking about trying this?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

A few people have tried it. I talked to a few people and they said it made the car harder to drive. To aggressive and responsive. I did the battery sideways and did inline electronics. I already have plenty of steering and dont want more, lol

Wild Cherry

Great idea...

Trevor Williams

iTrader: (207)

Car will be here today, gonna start with Rivkin's setup and make changes from their.

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

Geo,
can you post a pic of your current setup? payday coming and i want to get a few things like alum hexes and such, maybe the flat arms if everyone is still running them.

Wild Cherry

Trevor

grease or wax the screws before installing.

install the steering rack correctly & not up side down

will need the grub screws for the hubs & caster blocks,get some..

Trevor Williams

iTrader: (207)

Thanks...got the ae FT rack and motor plate and clear xrings...also schelle slipper and topshaft.....what gives on the grub screws for hubs and blocks?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

they take out the slop that developed after a couple weekends.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

It's for getting rid of the slop that will develop.

Wild Cherry

Remember how your ride was a bit loose & bit difficult to drive ?


Those days are so over...

Front

Shocks position = middle on tower , out side on arm
1.4 x 3 flat piston,35w,Grey Ae or Red k spring..
B5r Hard arm
Camber location = inside on tower & inside on caster block , 3mm spacer under stud



Rear

Shock position = inside on tower & inside on arm
1.6 x 2 flat piston ,35w oil, White Ae or Gold K spring
plastic B5r rear arm


23.5 mm ride height , front & rear
Loosen screws securing motor guard 3 turns
Place a thin piece of lead under battery if using short pack(2.8 oz)
JConcept Gold dirt web & new grey close cell inserts