rickster

hey wildcat...

ya I could tell it has tons of steering...

ok.. here this might help. I know this sounds opposite of what you may think.. but going to a softer front and rear spring will slow the cars reaction.. and also depending on your temps outside there.. maybe go up to 37.5 in front and 35 in back but leave the same pistons.. use the inside holes on arms both front and back.. this also changes the leverage points and slow the cars reaction both front and back.. go inside on shock towers as that will make it more progressive in the suspension and feel better on jumps.

use the 25 deg. front block.. if you have the 30 on there it quickens the steering feel.

in back run your hubs forward.. this will give the most rear traction and also slow the rotation of the car in the corners allowing you to carve them more. same with running longer rear camber locations.

not sure what motor and gearing your using.. but if your using a shorty battery try running it all way back or with one small spacer behind it. I actually took a extra big pad and cut my own that are half as thick as the small ones for even finer tuning.

also on tire foams.. if your running a closed cell foam it will transfer the energy quicker.. you may try an open cell foam or a 2 stage foam. in fronts I actually really like stuffing in a truck tire foam and I just trim it to the width of the buggy tire first.. this puts more foam in the tire rounding it a little helpin it tract better and smooths out the corner speed even more as it rounds the tire a little more.

rickster

oh and congrats to mikey Hudson who just won the nw nct rd 4 series up in Washington.. he beat some of the best drivers in the nw using a b5m . this is only his 4th time driving the car. I helped him get it dialed in and he is loving the car outdoors.
if he hadn't had electrical issues he would have won regionals with the car too.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

25+5 caster check
Rear hubs forward check (rm arms)
battery back check
rear shocks inside/inside check
open cell front check
I actually had longer rear camber links and longer fronts. this week I went to the "standard" camber links. I went from +3 to +4 on the spindles to try and calm it down and took the 1.4s out of the front. The car seemed to roll a ton with the 1.4s. I was lifting the inside front wheel.


I will try some of the things you suggested.

interesting going to heavier oil and lighter springs. I see where your going with that.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Twitch,
stiffer rear spring, softer front spring, softer oil in rear or more holes in piston, stiffer oil up front, long wheelbase, battery forward, add weight at the front.

You guys talk about twitch like its the same as removing steering. It's not.

JeremieJ

iTrader: (16)

What are the benefits of the captured ceramic thrust bearing from Avid over the stock one? Easier to adjust the diff?

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

Some people on here aren't too kind. Any who, if you switch to flat front arms and tower it will only make it push more. I don't know how the traction is at your track but put a small foam closest to the motor to move battery forward a lil. Make sure your running the same brand tires front and rear and same compound

Jason Turner

iTrader: (67)

Where did you get the thin lead?

markt311

iTrader: (34)

Are you guys running hubs forward with rm arms on the mid motor?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

well, imo not fighting with those tiny balls during the rebuild is nice.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am yes.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I dont have push, but yeah. I tried 17.5 at stock weight and it lacked some kick for sure. If your going to run 17.5, you might want to drop some rotating mass. Also, taking weight out of the rear should add steering. It did in my RM car anyway.

Wild Cherry

Start in the middle, rear motor
arm is already more forward then mid arm.

Jason, we had lots of the stuff around handy at the track.
Think you can purchase some at a roofing supply outlet.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

I have found that black frt with green rears is predictable and is alot more controlable mid to exit

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

And for the record, I never claimed to be a factory driver, lol. But we had a race recently with 68 entries in 17.5, and I finished like 32nd (while fighting my car). Normally I can finish in the top 15 when we have 35 guys entered on a club night. I was struggling with both cars last night. The clay at SRS is giving me fits. I either have way too much traction or not enough. I was talking to someone last night and they suggested clay slicks. They said, they just felt more consistent on the track than M4. Probably because the M4 might fold over in the corners. Also, I just wanted to show the difference of MM and RM on the same track and same layout for those trying to decide between the RM and MM cars. The RM car is still by far the easiest of the two to drive. But, if you want steering and lots of it, imo the MM is the way to go. Also, my RM buggy was 1525 without pucks and i had 20g of chassis tape on the car. My RM car is about 70 grams lighter than the MM car. If i had a shorty servo and pucks in my RM car, I would be under weight in a heart beat. Normally, when I am struggling with the MM, I throw the RM car down and its great...provided my slipper is not way off. I was slipping for a good 5 feet, lol. That is why I was having issues with jumps. My plan is to get the MM car where I want it, because it "feels" like it could be a much better car.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

And for the record, I never claimed to be a factory driver, lol. But we had a race recently with 68 entries in 17.5, and I finished like 32nd (while fighting my car). Normally I can finish in the top 15 when we have 35 guys entered on a club night. I was struggling with both cars last night. The clay at SRS is giving me fits. I either have way too much traction or not enough. I was talking to someone last night and they suggested clay slicks. They said, they just felt more consistent on the track than M4. Probably because the M4 might fold over in the corners. Also, I just wanted to show the difference of MM and RM on the same track and same layout for those trying to decide between the RM and MM cars. The RM car is still by far the easiest of the two to drive. But, if you want steering and lots of it, imo the MM is the way to go. Also, my RM buggy was 1525 without pucks and i had 20g of chassis tape on the car. My RM car is about 70 grams lighter than the MM car. If i had a shorty servo and pucks in my RM car, I would be under weight in a heart beat. Normally, when I am struggling with the MM, I throw the RM car down and its great...provided my slipper is not way off. I was slipping for a good 5 feet, lol. That is why I was having issues with jumps. My plan is to get the MM car where I want it, because it "feels" like it could be a much better car.