Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Hobbywing is probably the most under rated 1/10th scale esc. Yes, they make the Orion esc's. And everyone and their brother tried to clone them because they are very good. I have run the tekin gen2 rs esc's and I would definitely, pick the HW over them. I am running the orions, only because i got great deals on used ones. Otherwise, I would just run the Justock ESCs. $50 shipped to your door from HWNA. And yes, they have a warranty.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

So I spend another weekend running the MM. It can be driven really hard, but I still feel like the shock package is lacking. I have pretty good steering and enough rear traction, but on hard turns, the outside rear wheel sinks in so far and lifts the inside front wheel. Resulting in a spin out due to over loading the tire or a traction roll. Depending on the corner. I am running grey fronts 1.4x3 pistons and 37.5 oil, rear white springs, 1.6 pistons and 30wt oil. I am thinking about going to 32.5 in the rear. I am also debating going to 1.6's up front. on turns where a lot of weight transfers to the front, the front seems to over roll and can flip on of camber turns or landing a jump at an angle. The car basically feels under dampened. Reminds me of a SC truck kinda.

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

I wonder if roll bars would help? There is a guy at our track who really likes them

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I was thinking about that. No one here runs them, but that does not mean they would not work. I( have talked to a few people and they mostly, have the same shock package as me, I dunno maybe I am coming in too hot and not setting the car up. Maybe its the tires too. A few guys have gone to slicks. But i have issue grinding all the tread off a new set up tires, lol. But I am sold slicked out clays would cause the tire to roll over less and make for a more consistent car. The rear might be grabbing too much and causing the tire to roll over, thus causing my issues. I was to minimally slick out the outer 4mm of the tread to help with this.

rickster

hey wildcat..
I use the green swaybar setup on the loose position.. meaning the end is about 1/2mm away from and of wire. I run it all the time outdoors now... I switched back to the white rear springs and inside hole on tower and arm in back... and its really really good.. it gave me even more on power steering and also increased the rear traction.. exactly what you were saying.. it changed the roll a little and instead of rolling so much lifting front tires it kept the wheels in contact with the ground more. and by running it in the lightest setting it also works fine in the chop.. and I run on blown out 1/8th scale tracks.

hope that helps.. oh and for indoors try just going to the next step or two stiffer swaybar..

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I am running inside on tower and arm also with white springs. I might have to look into the sway bars. The track has plenty of traction. Wet clay that feels like walking on fly paper.

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

I like running the swaybar myself.

hcopp

Went with the XTreme stock from hobby wing. At $60 its completely worth a shot and drastically cuts down on the price to complete my RM. Thanks for the help.

rickster

hey wildcat... ya same here.. actually plenty of traction.. we are running dry but blow off track every few runs.. but lots of holes in corners and breaking bumps.. so really choppy in spots from 1/8th scales.. I had plenty of low speed steering but the on power stuff was lacking and it rolled to much in corners making back end want to come a little loose under power.. the swaybar was just the ticket. it locked in the backend and gave me the onpower steering I was looking for. and its just as smooth in the bumps as before.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

sounds good rick. I will give it try.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...grammable.html

turnigy gen2 LOL $70. the turbo 120a is still $45 too.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Hey Wildcat... If you think it may be the tires and don't want to grind down a new pair- check out the Panther Slicks. They come in super soft and clay compounds. Work very well when ghosted slick tires are working, plus they last much longer having been made to be run as slicks. I found they produce the same amount of traction, but have a longer life. Just something to consider. They work best if there is no dust, and the track is slightly damp.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, the track is damp clay, no dust at all. I have owned panther slicks before. 8 years ago. they were kinda "thick" in the carcass. I did see one local run them....an older guy. I might see how he likes them and watch is car go around the track

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

I've got a B5 and a B5m but am looking for some input on configuration of them. The B5m is blinged out with alot of light weight parts and such, the B5 is stock. (Both using Stock motors).

I was thinking of moving most of the light weight parts/mods onto the B5 to use in stock class and B5m for mod. What do you guys think? How did you all setup yours cars if you have both?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

IMO, the B5RM rocks in 17.5 and the B5M is great in Mod. But not the reverse. The B5 has too much rear bite for mod. Wheelies are way to common. And the MM car is expensive and a IMO not as good in 17.5. Some people will say its great, lol. But if I had a MM and a RM b5 and I wanted to run mod and 17.5, then RM for 17.5 and MM in mod is a no brainer IMO. Also, I do run both and have tried both configurations. If your racing low bite outdoor, then I would only own the RM car.