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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 07-17-2014, 11:45 AM
  #12136  
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Originally Posted by honda237
No biggie, I actually found a mistake in my first post where auto correct changed nut to but, so I had to edit it.
I appreciate the help, I have the diff set to where it's pretty loose, and the slipper slips at 3". I run on a loose dirt track, so I like the diff loose.
I know avid balls are good also, I was just looking at options.

All good..
tight helps smooth entry & rotation in the corner.

loose brings more forward traction..

Set slipper so front wheel barely raise off of table.
(17.5)

Mod

set for 1 in high.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:53 AM
  #12137  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Leigh
What size is the correct reamer for the ball cups 4.0 4.7 on the b5?
both and neither. The TLR uses 4.8 balls and they are smaller than the AE. But, you can still use those reamers to run around the inside of the cup to remove a little material. Too small is better than too big....at least that is what she said
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:56 AM
  #12138  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
both and neither. The TLR uses 4.8 balls and they are smaller than the AE. But, you can still use those reamers to run around the inside of the cup to remove a little material. Too small is better than too big....at least that is what she said
just use a cut off wheel to make slits in a stock ball stud and use that as a reamer.. it takes literally 30 seconds to make it. then chuck it up in a drill and pop it into a cup.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:59 AM
  #12139  
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Originally Posted by rc23
just use a cut off wheel to make slits in a stock ball stud and use that as a reamer.. it takes literally 30 seconds to make it. then chuck it up in a drill and pop it into a cup.
yeah, this is on my to do list of DIY projects. need a new cut off wheel.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:05 PM
  #12140  
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I got a new wing mount from a main its a tad tall then my rear wing mount is this the updated one?
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:19 PM
  #12141  
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Originally Posted by GTSSTANG
What is the preferred pad setup to go with the Avid slipper used in 17.5?
White/red/white for those conditions.
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:27 PM
  #12142  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Why do that? Flex?
I just do this to mine for a wee bit of flex and cooling
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:30 PM
  #12143  
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Originally Posted by GTSSTANG
We probably won't see a 5mm bullet connector light weight 2s, because the 5mm setup weighs a little more.

The 4mm/5mm bullet is probably the best compromise if running the two battery types., but I am not too sure about that extra 5mm being exposed on 4mm.
The 4/5mm bullet combo connector weights more too. I was running them but decided to remove them and go with straight 4mm bullets on my B5M and save the 5mm shorty packs for my SC truck. Also the 4/5mm combo plug sticks out and causes fitment issues with the body, and as you mentioned can short if the exposed ends touches something conductive.
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:53 PM
  #12144  
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Originally Posted by vito
I got a new wing mount from a main its a tad tall then my rear wing mount is this the updated one?
wc did I get the right one?
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:17 PM
  #12145  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
ended up ordering 3 sets of ceramic balls from acer racing - $6.99 for 14. can't beat that.

With all of this diff talk.... the outdrives should be totally fine, right? not really a way those can get damaged except on the outside of em?
Definitely the right price. Hope they perform as my rebuild with ceramics is now complete. Had to do it twice because I did not clean parts 100%. My guess is that folks who are having issues rebuilding ball diffs are not aware that all parts have to be perfectly clean. The least bit of contaminate will bugger the whole rebuild. Motor sprayed and compressed air all parts and broke in with my drill motor. Smooth as butter and ready to roll. I purchased ceramics from local racer who does not care for ceramics. So far, I am totally pleased. Will try to post after several races to update on wear.
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:10 PM
  #12146  
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Just rebuilt my diff as well. Did the lift test and could finally hear the slipper slip though I did get a the slightest bit of chirp and then just stopped. The schelle slipper is coming tomorrow so I am going to wait to do any more tooling around. The diff rebuild went well. and I made sure to put it on the tight side for the slipper testing. I dunno if I am just giving it too much gas. running 79/21 (i think) and a lot of boost on my esc I'm wondering if its simply just too much power for the lift test and am in fact blowing it out. regardless... one small chirp won't kill anything (if you say it does I think ill live for a few runs and then do another rebuild, and i tightened it about 1/8 turn after that. who knows maybe I'm not exactly sure what the chirp actually sounds like.

Thanks for everyone's help as always. You guys are a great resource and have taught me a ton in the last few weeks. Always appreciated.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:10 PM
  #12147  
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Hey is there a ball diff rebuild kit for this yet.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:35 PM
  #12148  
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Originally Posted by vito
wc did I get the right one?
yUp, I think so Vito

That wing your using is extra thick though.

No big deal however.


@ the track

Driving with one my better team mates right now..
He drives a 22..

Were working hard together tuning it.
Almost got it..
One more pack and we should have it dail in...

We been using my b5 for comparison...

Don't worry , my B5 still drives better...lol..

It lands a little better & has no stall .
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:10 PM
  #12149  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
Just rebuilt my diff as well. Did the lift test and could finally hear the slipper slip though I did get a the slightest bit of chirp and then just stopped. The schelle slipper is coming tomorrow so I am going to wait to do any more tooling around. The diff rebuild went well. and I made sure to put it on the tight side for the slipper testing. I dunno if I am just giving it too much gas. running 79/21 (i think) and a lot of boost on my esc I'm wondering if its simply just too much power for the lift test and am in fact blowing it out. regardless... one small chirp won't kill anything (if you say it does I think ill live for a few runs and then do another rebuild, and i tightened it about 1/8 turn after that. who knows maybe I'm not exactly sure what the chirp actually sounds like.

Thanks for everyone's help as always. You guys are a great resource and have taught me a ton in the last few weeks. Always appreciated.
I run a stock 17.5 blinky with a slipper eliminator. I make sure my diff is plenty tight then just cruise around for 5 minutes and check to see if it is still nice and tight. Always forget to check tightness by putting 2 hex wrenches in outdrives and trying to turn diff gear (before diff is installed into tranny). Once you get to know what a properly adjusted diff feels like, you can stop worrying about slipping your diff. I had a factory team driver check mine several months ago and he said it was way loose and tightened it for me. I made sure to feel how tight it was for future reference. I also do a break in of the diff if I tighten it... hold one tire and semi slow speed on the radio for a minute or so then the same procedure on the other tire. Not a bad thing to do every once in awhile as well to keep your diff as smooth as possible.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:11 PM
  #12150  
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Anybody have feedback on using the flat front arms compared to the gull wings?
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