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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:53 PM
  #11566  
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Originally Posted by vito
So clean without all those pesky wires lol
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:00 PM
  #11567  
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Originally Posted by racer_guy
looks clean vito! im a fan of your invisible esc
the esc is a tekin rs gen 2 its in my rear motor right now need more wire
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:09 PM
  #11568  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
So, I have a "new" issue to deal with. The new SRS has so much traction, I was traction rolling. running 1.6's front and rear with 32.5/30wt oils green fronts and white rears. I have plenty of steering, so much that I traction roll in corners where I can carry more speed. Anyone running on higher bite tracks do anything different on damp clay tracks to reduce traction rolls? I am running 24/24 ride height.
Couple suggestions:
- Try lowering ride height
- Try much stiffer springs on the front. This is standard setup for adapting buggies to pavement.
- If the car is traction rolling on entry, try lowering roll centers by a washer or two.
- If the car is traction rolling on exit, try raising roll centers. The car may be simply "rolling out".
- Look for setup sheets from this year's Euro series as those guys run on really grippy carpet.
- Check out the onroad fourm for traction roll suggestions. You will have to wade through pages of "apply CA to your sidewalls", but some of the guys get the underlying mechanics.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:37 PM
  #11569  
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Originally Posted by mick33b4
Couple suggestions:
- Try lowering ride height
- Try much stiffer springs on the front. This is standard setup for adapting buggies to pavement.
- If the car is traction rolling on entry, try lowering roll centers by a washer or two.
- If the car is traction rolling on exit, try raising roll centers. The car may be simply "rolling out".
- Look for setup sheets from this year's Euro series as those guys run on really grippy carpet.
- Check out the onroad fourm for traction roll suggestions. You will have to wade through pages of "apply CA to your sidewalls", but some of the guys get the underlying mechanics.
Its actually at the middle of the turn. I am using suburbs, and I wonder if that outer rib might be the cause. Might be catching as well. I might go white in the fronts and see how that goes. I am running the rear hubs inserts down also.. maybe I should raise them as well.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:41 PM
  #11570  
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sway bar, lower roll center?
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:59 PM
  #11571  
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Originally Posted by scythe23
I have what is probably dumb question. When people say they use the open cell foam from a rear tire cut to 3/4 do they mean of the width or cut it to make it shorter? I run at a high bite clay track and a high to medium bite clay and dirt track. Also on a side note. I have a front set of ions with red AKA foam in them the foam is shot but the tire is perfect what is the best way to remove the tire from the wheel without damaging it? Thanks
Okay first of all if it is a clay compound tire do not use acetone to remove the tire if you want to save it! It will shrink and harden it. Baking it would be okay, but the closed cell foam will shrink and be unusable. Also boiling is another viable option.

Once you get the tire and foam out, if there is leftover glue residue hardened onto the rim you can put them in acetone for 24 hours to remove it. Simply look up either method I recommended and find out which one is better for you.

Using an open cell foam on the front of a 2wd buggy will typically make the steering a little bit less twitchy. Also it will soften the steering if your track is rough. So if you are finding your steering a little too aggressive and your car is oversteering, give it a try!

This has just been my experience so take it for what you will.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:05 AM
  #11572  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
Okay first of all if it is a clay compound tire do not use acetone to remove the tire if you want to save it! It will shrink and harden it. Baking it would be okay, but the closed cell foam will shrink and be unusable. Also boiling is another viable option.

Once you get the tire and foam out, if there is leftover glue residue hardened onto the rim you can put them in acetone for 24 hours to remove it. Simply look up either method I recommended and find out which one is better for you.

Using an open cell foam on the front of a 2wd buggy will typically make the steering a little bit less twitchy. Also it will soften the steering if your track is rough. So if you are finding your steering a little too aggressive and your car is oversteering, give it a try!

This has just been my experience so take it for what you will.
I find that open cells give more steering than AKA an blue proline closed cells, unless you don't cut the rears and stuff them up front. And when they begin to break down they can cause twitchy behavior, particularly on an older clay layout where traction is high and the tires are worn in.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:38 AM
  #11573  
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7000 oil in the gear diff worked really well. Brown front springs and a couple geometry changes like a longer front link and a bit more camber put this thing in the realm of consistent. Exactly what I was looking for
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:46 AM
  #11574  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
I find that open cells give more steering than AKA an blue proline closed cells, unless you don't cut the rears and stuff them up front. And when they begin to break down they can cause twitchy behavior, particularly on an older clay layout where traction is high and the tires are worn in.
I'm mostly referring to AKA CC foams. I've not tried Proline, or Jconcepts foams. I think this thing can vary greatly between different tracks and different track conditions. Either way I think the open cells definitely provide more side bite due to the carcass of the tire being able to move more to conform to the track. You are right however, the open cell can quickly become unpredictable when the foam starts to break down. AKA CC foams will literally get better the second set of tires they have been in. All in all, if I were him I would just see what the local fast guys are doing for that track when it is in different stages.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:39 PM
  #11575  
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Looks like the B5 RM car took the 1st and 2nd place at the Top Gun Shootout in stock. So manybe we will see a new setup for the RM car on the AE site. Also, the RM beat out several MM cars, so obviously MM in stock is not always the best Also, the winners were local AZ drivers and RM seems to dominate locally in stock.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:52 PM
  #11576  
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can anyone tell me the weight savings on the MIP bi metal system over stock components? Trying to see if i can reach min weight without milling the chassis. Thanks
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:17 PM
  #11577  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Looks like the B5 RM car took the 1st and 2nd place at the Top Gun Shootout in stock. So manybe we will see a new setup for the RM car on the AE site. Also, the RM beat out several MM cars, so obviously MM in stock is not always the best Also, the winners were local AZ drivers and RM seems to dominate locally in stock.
any vids from that?
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:03 PM
  #11578  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Its actually at the middle of the turn. I am using suburbs, and I wonder if that outer rib might be the cause. Might be catching as well. I might go white in the fronts and see how that goes. I am running the rear hubs inserts down also.. maybe I should raise them as well.
We ran 18mm ride height when we had super traction, you had too.
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:12 PM
  #11579  
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yeah, I am looking at a few things. This is a new track and it might just be the tires. Some guys on M4s and other on clays. Some slicks, some treaded. We are all trying to figure it out. I was running m4 treaded. It might need a tire with less side bite or even a clay tire. I also wonder if the evo style wheels and tires has less sidewall flex and might help also.
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:26 PM
  #11580  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Its actually at the middle of the turn. I am using suburbs, and I wonder if that outer rib might be the cause. Might be catching as well. I might go white in the fronts and see how that goes. I am running the rear hubs inserts down also.. maybe I should raise them as well.
Sounds like the ol SC10 4x4 and raising the inner rear ball stud trick.

Try dirt webs too, with a consistent tread pattern might help if the ribs are in fact catching. You could test by just adding a little more camber too real quick.
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