137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
06-23-2014, 12:06 AM
anyone know if the b4.1/.2 top shaft wil fit the b5?
06-23-2014, 12:14 AM
06-23-2014, 12:23 AM
Does the mip pucks system really make that noticeable of a differance in 17.5 with the mm?
06-23-2014, 12:40 AM
Looking for a Hobbywing ESC recommendation for my B5RM. I want to stick with HW as that is what I run in all of my other cars. Looking for something that can handle down to maybe a 10.5 as we only run mod. Footprint is pretty important for obvious reasons. What would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance.
06-23-2014, 01:56 AM
Tech Apprentice
Hi All,
I just ordered my B5M. I read a lot of pages here but I am not sure if there are any specific things I should take care for while building it? Some people mentioned to polish the ball studs. Something else?
Thx
I just ordered my B5M. I read a lot of pages here but I am not sure if there are any specific things I should take care for while building it? Some people mentioned to polish the ball studs. Something else?
Thx
06-23-2014, 05:56 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
Anybody looking for a brand new B5M still sealed in box? Here is one in the For Sale forum:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iated-b5m.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iated-b5m.html
06-23-2014, 06:08 AM
Extreme stock is very nice (in my son's 17.5 C4.2), but not what I would recommend if I had a choice and knew I was going mod. Spec is up to 11.5t for off road.
I run the Xerun 120amp v2.1 in my B5R with a KO 407 receiver not using a shelf. 10.5 Orion VST. The v2.1 spec is up to 5.5t.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...s-esc-for-10th
For the extra $40 over the Extreme Stock you get a stronger BEC (I run a Savox 1258 so that's important for me) and more 'headroom' on the power. Most around here are running 7.5 or 8.5 motors in their B5R outdoors -- not something you probably want to do with a 60amp esc like the Extreme Stock that is rated to 11.5t.
Yesterday outdoors in 80 degree weather my ESC was coming off at ~ 135 running no ESC timing after ~ 8 minute runs. No fan. Very smooth power and braking.
If you do go with the Extreme Stock and you have a power hungry servo like the Savox 1257/58 I would recommend running a glitch buster capacitor. I had a Justock with the same BEC as the extreme stock and it would brown out very occasionally with the Savox and KO receivers until we put in the glitch buster.
I run the Xerun 120amp v2.1 in my B5R with a KO 407 receiver not using a shelf. 10.5 Orion VST. The v2.1 spec is up to 5.5t.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...s-esc-for-10th
For the extra $40 over the Extreme Stock you get a stronger BEC (I run a Savox 1258 so that's important for me) and more 'headroom' on the power. Most around here are running 7.5 or 8.5 motors in their B5R outdoors -- not something you probably want to do with a 60amp esc like the Extreme Stock that is rated to 11.5t.
Yesterday outdoors in 80 degree weather my ESC was coming off at ~ 135 running no ESC timing after ~ 8 minute runs. No fan. Very smooth power and braking.
If you do go with the Extreme Stock and you have a power hungry servo like the Savox 1257/58 I would recommend running a glitch buster capacitor. I had a Justock with the same BEC as the extreme stock and it would brown out very occasionally with the Savox and KO receivers until we put in the glitch buster.
06-23-2014, 06:53 AM
Why ?
They already come polished from the factory.
06-23-2014, 06:55 AM
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Mentioned & intended as a suggestion for higher performance.
Just my opinion, milling the chassis for weight reduction defeats the purpose of using a alloy chassis .
Could just use Graphite to get a weight reduction.
The whole reason for the alloy chassis is to use the weight for a lower center of gravity.
The reason it has an aluminum chassis is because they couldn't get the plastic one stiff enough. They said so right in an interview. Probably the same interview where they explained why they put gullwing in the MM and flat arms in the RM.
Mentioned & intended as a suggestion for higher performance.
Just my opinion, milling the chassis for weight reduction defeats the purpose of using a alloy chassis .
Could just use Graphite to get a weight reduction.
The whole reason for the alloy chassis is to use the weight for a lower center of gravity.
Disagree with statement. The main reason for the change to aluminum chassis is because the metal chassis absorbs more energy, allowing the car to soak up bumps better. It just happens that with lighter batteries and more HP available, it is easier to get away with a heavier car so you might as well put that weight down low and make a stronger car in the process.
If you remember most guys running B4's ran the plastic chassis. The molded graphite chassis wasn't appreciably lighter, it was stiffer, and made the car twitchy and harder to drive.
If you remember most guys running B4's ran the plastic chassis. The molded graphite chassis wasn't appreciably lighter, it was stiffer, and made the car twitchy and harder to drive.
06-23-2014, 07:41 AM
Seth
You need to separate the thumb screw mounts from the chassis tray.
This allows you rake the thumb screw mounts more forward for improved coverage of the battery with the strap. You will be able to move the strap about a 1/4 inch more forward, not much but still better. Personally not once had any issue with the battery coming loose.
Suggest also trim or grind the battery tray off for more flex & improved handling.
maybe also consider moving the PT forward on top of servo.
Looks great fan & all.
Drive it for a while..
Then ?
Drive someone else's with a set up like you use to have.
You will really understand the difference then .
You need to separate the thumb screw mounts from the chassis tray.
This allows you rake the thumb screw mounts more forward for improved coverage of the battery with the strap. You will be able to move the strap about a 1/4 inch more forward, not much but still better. Personally not once had any issue with the battery coming loose.
Suggest also trim or grind the battery tray off for more flex & improved handling.
maybe also consider moving the PT forward on top of servo.
Looks great fan & all.
Drive it for a while..
Then ?
Drive someone else's with a set up like you use to have.
You will really understand the difference then .
And cutting down the side pods was my next step, make it a little more flexi. Although with nationals at SCRC I may leave it as is since that track is high grip, super fast, and bumpy like the moon. I think a stiff chassis will help smooth it out over the high speed bumps where a flexi chassis may dig in too much.
06-23-2014, 08:22 AM
Seth
Trim the sides, not for traction.
For allowing the front of chassis to flex same or more even with the rear of chassis.
Trim the sides, not for traction.
For allowing the front of chassis to flex same or more even with the rear of chassis.
06-23-2014, 09:21 AM
My coworker is a New Design Engineer and CNC programmer for our huge CNC's. We did a Solidworks FEA Stress analysis on the B5M chassis to see how we can remove weight without affecting rigidity. The "spiderweb" design is used to retain its "factory" stiffness indicated in dark blue in the first pic below. The lighter shades are somewhat weaker areas. Without the spiderwebs we started to see green to yellow areas which noticeably have more flex under load so in order to reduce weight and keep it within light blue to dark, we had to add the ribs. We weren't concerned about the lighter shades not dark blue because once the plastic parts were assembled and installed, the chassis was re-enforced to no flex at all. The last pic is the final product with plastic frames attached. Mill time is 39 minutes a chassis at .073" depth. Factory mill is .050". Chassis is .105" total so there's .032" left at bottom of mill holes. Effective weight loss of 30 grams on the money and still stiff as stock. The power of solidworks at its best when used to its potential. PM me for info on getting it done for your chassis.
06-23-2014, 09:38 AM
I'm really sorry if this has been asked before, but is what are the specs for the rear arm mount inserts?
I bought a roller and it came with the aluminum mounts with D size inserts. What is the toe/antisquat for the D insert and other inserts? Thanks.
I bought a roller and it came with the aluminum mounts with D size inserts. What is the toe/antisquat for the D insert and other inserts? Thanks.
06-23-2014, 11:26 AM
Hey Guys Im getting back into the hobby, I have an indoor track opening locally so considering a mid-motor buggy. How durable are these kits and also how difficult are they to tune and drive?
06-23-2014, 11:32 AM
The C inserts are for the front and are all labeled as to which toe/antisquat they have.