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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost

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06-10-2014, 09:24 PM

#10921

BRSracing

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Jmuck sent you a pm

06-10-2014, 11:05 PM

#10922

racer_guy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmuck69

Is there an embargo against the clamping front hexes from AE??? WTF is the delay?

been waiting on mine for a while also. got the rear hex and the front axle, but no front hex yet...hopefully soon

06-11-2014, 03:59 AM

#10923

TRyan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by racer_guy

been waiting on mine for a while also. got the rear hex and the front axle, but no front hex yet...hopefully soon

I would like to see a picture of a clamping front hex for a b5. I don't understand how or why you would want or need them. Isn't your hex built into the front axle?

06-11-2014, 04:09 AM

#10924

juicy74

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bambambennett

A reduction in side bite can be achieved by many different things. I can say my B5's like different tire combos than my B4's and 22's did(on the same track). first, play with camber. Try -.5. If that doesn't help, run less toe on the rear. If that doesn't help, run a higher roll center in the rear only. Try lowering the ball stud 1mm at a time until it gets sketchy, then go back a half a mm. HPI has 3X.5ballstud washers for about 3 bucks. to control fishtailing, change esc setting to smoother, loosen slipper, lighter throttle input, or slow your steering down on your radio. Believe it or not, you can be overcompensating when using a really fast servo. I don't mess with dual rates, just servo speed mode on my radio.

Thanks. I'll give it a go!

06-11-2014, 05:40 AM

#10925

Mason

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TRyan

I would like to see a picture of a clamping front hex for a b5. I don't understand how or why you would want or need them. Isn't your hex built into the front axle?

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91409/

06-11-2014, 05:54 AM

#10926

Mason

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Top Shaft comparison guys..
weight, any extra bits needed/reused?

AE Steel, AE Alum, MIP (4.5g spacer built in), Exotek (5g reuse kit spacer?), ?? and go.

Last edited by Mason; 06-11-2014 at 05:56 AM. Reason: not sure if anyone has checked the AE Alum or if there are others than the ones listed.

06-11-2014, 06:48 AM

#10927

Wildcat1971

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So, I got my MM car all put together last night. I knew it would be heavier, but holy crap, lol. 1600+ grams with no body and a shorty. Thank goodness I plan to run mod soon. I would not want to push that around with a 17.5. If the car drives poorly, I might do a few things to drop weight. Also, that was with the triad, no chassis tape and a smallish viper vtx10 esc. It makes a 22 look like a feather weight car. Where do you think all of that weight comes from? The alum chassis cant weight 100 grams more.

06-11-2014, 06:55 AM

#10928

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

My car is 1680 out of the box with a square battery and it works great. In fact, when I ran it lighter, it sucked. Don't buy into all the hype that you must be lighter. That stuff works for 17.5, but this isn't 17.5

06-11-2014, 06:59 AM

#10929

Wildcat1971

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It may very well work great, I was just surprised. I get my first runs tonight. Looking forward to it. But I still dont see how people can run this car box stock in 17.5.

06-11-2014, 07:02 AM

#10930

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

It may very well work great, I was just surprised. I get my first runs tonight. Looking forward to it. But I still dont see how people can run this car box stock in 17.5.

they can do it because the car carries so much corner speed. What you lose in acceleration, you more than make up for. With that said, if I was to run this car in 17.5, I would focus on rotating mass. I don't care what the scale says for the overall car. I want the rotating mass as light as possible.

06-11-2014, 07:02 AM

#10931

Bubonic-X

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmuck69

Is there an embargo against the clamping front hexes from AE??? WTF is the delay?

Dude they are all over ebay the shipping is cheaper too!

06-11-2014, 07:02 AM

#10932

blingy

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WC I'd like to see some pics of the comparison between the three that sound interesting

06-11-2014, 07:07 AM

#10933

Wildcat1971

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

I agree on the rotating mass. I did that with my RM car. I would only question dropping 2 much weight in the rear and messing with the balance. Right now out track is 80% 180s and a lot of them. And short run ups to some jumps. With my kids 22, which weight a lot more than a B5RM, I can only clear the jumps for 3 minutes. Same battery/motor in my b5 RM can clear the jumps for 8+ minutes. A few locals that run the B5M in stock say it handles great, but just to heavy to keep up with the speed of the RM B5's

06-11-2014, 07:09 AM

#10934

Bubonic-X

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TRyan

I would like to see a picture of a clamping front hex for a b5. I don't understand how or why you would want or need them. Isn't your hex built into the front axle?

TR
The clamping hex requires you to use the new axle also so you have to get both. Which are both out of stock at associated
I dont know why I did it it truly does not matter in terms of performance. The only other reason I can think of to switch is when the kits first came out. Builders were not lock "titeing" the screw that retains the axle thus when it came off you lost the crush tube the screw itself and possibly a bearing.

06-11-2014, 07:11 AM

#10935

scythe23

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I ran the rm front arms last night and I'm not sure seemed to lose a hair of steering but it reacted faster to my inputs and didn't feel quite as lazy as the gull wings. Hope that makes sense. I wish I could race on sat er days but I can't so I'll be doing friday. Hope to move to mod soon but need more practice. Last night I got better and can now do consistent 21 sec laps at w3...not great but a lot better that ln last week.